First vertical stick welds, advice?

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Here are a pic of my very first vertical welds. Im using 6013 1/8 electrode with 135 amps on a lincoln AC-225 GLM. I dont know which is the technique I should use. In the lincoln manual it says you should deposit, then make a wrist movement so the heat goes up and then return and deposit again. Is this ok? any input on my welds? take it easy they are the very first ones that I do vertical!  thnaks Attached ImagesLast edited by elvergon; 11-24-2005 at 04:46 PM.
Reply:elvergon,  word to the wise...go down....no reason not to.  If you need thicker material...thicker than say 1/8 so 3/16 up, heck even 3/16 you could use 6013 donw, but id use 6011 from 3/16 on up.  Again Id just go down.  With that buzz box its gonna be real tough to get them looking real good.  going down with 6013 is alright and although you can get deeper penetration going up, its soo thin whats the point.  If your working on thicker.  6011 is better anywayGoood luckCHRIS
Reply:Thanks for the words Tx. I do not have a special project right now so I just want to know how to do vertical welds. Probably in the future I will need that skill. I just used 6013 because a friend of mine gave me a bunch of them for free and that`s all I have to practice. I´ll try looking for some 6011´s, oh by the way, is 6011 or 6010 better for this AC machine? If I would like to learn vertical with this machine is there any advice you could give me Tx? Sorry about being so insistent, but I can aldready go down, and horizontal, (also MIG and TIG and Oxy-Ace) so vertical with stick is the last obstacle  Thanks for the help!
Reply:Ok,  well for starts let me explain a lil bout myself. Im a college educated redneck farmboy welder.  I know the right ways to do things, and I know the redneck way of doing things.  The right way would definately be to learn to go up down and back upi the crack of your azz.  But if your a redneck you just learn to go up down and up the crack of your azz, except you learn to do each one only according to how lazy you feel.  Hehe.   Ok, so the 6013,  low penetrating rod.  Will go vertical up or veritcal down. Will do, flat, and horizontal.  When you said you can weld down you mean flat positin or do you mean downhill.  Some folks call flat downhand.  Causes a bit of confussion with this ole redneck.  Now, the 6011, deep penetrating rod. Oh you mentiond a 6010,  a 5P as I call it.  Well with an AC machine stay away from 5P.  Actually its a great rod, but can only be run on DCEP.   Therefore you want that 6011 which is the same basic rod, but the flux is differnt so it can run on AC.   Almost same exact penetration, and less sticking with 6011.  When I say almost same, I mean if I fit two plate coupons up exactly the same.  Run 6011 on one and 6010 on the other open root you wont be able to tell the differnce. Howeer, I will prolly have to push slightly harder with that 6011 than that 6010 to get them to look the exact same, but not much harder just a pinch.  Does this help.  DC is superior to AC btw.  But enough of that.  If you want to go uphill though,  the key with either rod is to reduce your current,  usually they say by about 15%   This isnt a hard fast figure though.Dont say, oh my but I cant dial in exactly 15%, or determine what 15% is lol  Not to worry,  just gives you a ball park, and you work with it from that. With the 6011 you do a whipping motion where you whip out aoub ta half inch or so to preheat, then bring back the edge ofr your puddle, then whip it back out, bring back to edge of puddle, basically thats all you do.  Key thre is to make sure you let it fill when you return to your puddle,  give it a count of like 1-1000-2 or so before leaving to whip again.   Basically the concept of the heat input will be the same with 6013, 7018 if you get into it, and all the rods.  But the particular heat to input will vary.  6011 for instance run like oh I dont reember 1/8" maybe around 100 amps.  So to get 15% would mean youd proly run something like 85 amps.  That gets you into a ball park figure.  What I usually do, is IF i get 6013 I stick to 3/32 cause they work good on thin stuff.  However I can weld thin with 6011 so I lke to rujn 3/32 6011.  But thena gain its hard to say.  I dont use 3/32 on much, and I like my sheet metal to look nice, but sometimes its crappy with rust and cow pooh so you know 6011 is nicer to use.  Othertimes though its kinda pretty like a galv pipe fence and you can use 6013 no problems.   6011 doenst mind rust and dirt and stuff though. 6013 doesnt like it period.  I hope this helps some.  If you have the monay and want to spend it you can get a 50 lb box of 6011 and it will last you for a long time, but you will use it if you have any hinkerin for welding.  IF not it costs more to buy the smaller boxes but you know.  6011 though doesnt have the moisture problems found with other rods.  just FYI.Good luck any more questions dont hesistate to perisist or insist..hehe   go right on ahead thats what Im here for....just tryin to give some youngsters the oppurtunity the old foagies gave meCHRIS
Reply:Thanks Chris now I get it. BTW what I meant is that I can do very nice welds, either downhill or in flat position...but I never experienced uphill. Thats the new challenge, but thanks to your advice I will hopefully get over it. Thanks for all the info!
Reply:Yeah, the downhill you tend to run your heat a little high.  Like its common not to change settitngs from flat.  To go up though, do as you were instructed and decrease your amperage down by like 10-15 % and it shall make a differnceCHRIS
Reply:Practice, Practice, Practice, and when you get bored tired and pi$$ed practice some more. Remember when your puddle gets 1 and half times bigger than your rod step out, watch your puddle freeze and then step back in just after it freezes.I got to learn on more upset tubing than i care to remember. Now all i want to do is go backin time and do all of it again.
Reply:In the science of welding you will need to be shown by a seasoned poperly educated stick welder.Would you drive a car with out someone showing you how? There is NO GUESS WORK when you weld. Ken
Reply:Originally Posted by MetalSculptorIn the science of welding you will need to be shown by a seasoned poperly educated stick welder.Would you drive a car with out someone showing you how? There is NO GUESS WORK when you weld. Ken
Reply:Just a thought, while there's something to be said about the amount of science in welding, I've always kinda considered it an art.....I r 2 a perfessional
Reply:I'll second that ..  * wheres that beer mug? *