Some newbie questions

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I'm taking a beginning welding class (so please be patient with me  )  and I have some questions:1) I'm having trouble with my rod sticking to the workpiece. What is the proper way to strike an arc? I bring the rod in and an angle and try to "scrape" the rod's edge against the workpiece but it still sticks.  2) We had to do a butt weld. I can barely see the mating line on the two plates through my hood. How can I keep a straight line right on the mating line?Thanks in advance for your help!
Reply:Hi ApprenticeTry thisStriking an ArcTwo ways I. Like striking a match -touch scratch and lift2. Tap end on-and liftUse electrodes (sticks) in good condition--no cracks in the flux or bared metal ends. Don't make your arc too long -use about core wire height.If you have trouble seeing the seam, check your lens shading - shade 10 or 11 for 3.25mm or 1/8" electrode. Check that your clear cover lenses are clean.Aussie Grahame
Reply:I always use method 1.  Drag and lift.  If you drag at a low angle, the flux on the side of the rod helps keep you from sticking.  Once the arc is started, you just lift a bit, maintaining the arc and then start welding.  It takes a bit of practice.  I don't do the tap and go much.  I find that you are a lot more likely to stick that way...just me maybe.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:Standard blurb:  Please summarize the question(s) in the subject line.  Obviously it's a question.  That's why you started a thread.  We need to be able to find it later through a search to do follow-ups or to scan through for threads that our specialists might be more inclined to read and post in.  Maybe I'm the only one that thinks this is helpful??????For your question, the ease of the strike will depend on the electrode you are using, but I didn't see anything about an attempt to "lift" the electrode immediately after striking.  This is what forms the arc.  Tapping or striking is what allows a brief current to flow so that the air will ionize and easily support an arc across a greater distance, but without the immediate lifting, that brief current will (only that split-second later) weld the electrode to the weldment.Last edited by MAC702; 09-19-2006 at 04:33 PM.
Reply:It takes a little practice... Keep trying and you'll get a feel for it. As for seeing the seam, that takes a little practice too. After some seat time, you won't understand what the problem was.
Reply:As for visibility, feel free to go lighter with your hood.  I have my auto set at #9 for SMAW with 1/8" electrodes all the time.  I'm protected to #14 for ultraviolet, regardless of visible shade, so it's purely for comfort and safety is unaffected.  That's pretty standard for welding hoods.But the biggest help will be a well lit workpiece.  I use 500W halogens located around my table.  Use the one that will light the weldment well without coming into the back of your hood.