Tap or Continuous Voltage Control

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Hi,I’m looking to buy a MIG welder that will be used mainly for automotive work (shock towers, sheet metal, etc.).  I think I’ve narrowed it down to either the Lincoln 135T (tap voltage control) or the Lincoln 135 plus (continuous voltage control).The main question I have is do I need to go with the continuous voltage control or can I get away with the tap?  I’m not opposed to spending the extra money for the continuous if it’s truly going to make a big difference, but will it really matter for someone of my skill level (just starting out) or for the type of work I intend to do?Also, are there any votes in favor of a Hobart Handler 140 or Miller 135?Thanks in advance.
Reply:Originally Posted by rbe4Hi,I’m looking to buy a MIG welder that will be used mainly for automotive work (shock towers, sheet metal, etc.).  I think I’ve narrowed it down to either the Lincoln 135T (tap voltage control) or the Lincoln 135 plus (continuous voltage control).The main question I have is do I need to go with the continuous voltage control or can I get away with the tap?  I’m not opposed to spending the extra money for the continuous if it’s truly going to make a big difference, but will it really matter for someone of my skill level (just starting out) or for the type of work I intend to do?Also, are there any votes in favor of a Hobart Handler 140 or Miller 135?Thanks in advance.
Reply:I have a couple of Lincoln 110v welders, a 125plus and a 135 plus.I like having the variable voltage control but it is definitely not "necessary".It is a nice feature to have when fine tuning your weld for different materials/thicknesses but you could also do fine with tap controls like my Lincoln PowerMIG 200's have.Hobart and Miller are both nice welders in this class as well but I tend to like Lincoln MIG's over any other. For me, they seem to weld a lot cleaner than the Miller or Hobart (but that is just my opinion...I don't want your thread turning into a brand war.) ...and for you Miller freaks, don't worry, I only weld with Miller TIG welders. I have used Lincoln TIGs before and didn't like them as much.http://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:I think the extra money is better spent going to a 230V machine, especially for suspension work.Most tapped machines are very adequate for voltage selection.  The latest 230V Hobart Handler 180 is an exception, unfortunately.If you insist on a 120V machine, the HH140 is about as good as it gets and the best value by far.
Reply:Thanks for the responses.  My first inclination was to go with a 230V unit, but a few “pros” have told me it would be overkill for automotive work (excessive burn-through).  Would a 230V be okay for doing automotive sheet metal?
Reply:I think that a 230V machine would be a better all around welder for you to buy if 110v is not a necessity.I use my Lincoln 200's for everything from sheet metal to suspension and chassis work. I think you will be wanting to upgrade to a 230v machine in the future if you go with the 110v right now.Don't get me wrong, I still love my 110v Lincolns and use them often but I'm glad that I have my PowerMIG 200's.http://all-a-cart.comWelding Cart Kits and accessories
Reply:If you insist on a 120V machine, the HH140 is about as good as it gets and the best value by far.The little Thermal is better on the top end (really wets out nice)On the low end the little Hobart is really the one to beat. I knowThe little Lincolns are tough as snot but time has caught up withthem. Never thought I say that one. In fact my SP-175 pluswas a step down from the ealier one I had. If was looking fora short-arc machine this is the unit I would give a good look at.60 OCV in a smaller type machine has my interest. I not weldedwith it yet but have heard it's outstanding.http://www.thermadyne.com/evolution/...100&pdtnbr=556
Reply:Originally Posted by rbe4Thanks for the responses.  My first inclination was to go with a 230V unit, but a few “pros” have told me it would be overkill for automotive work (excessive burn-through).  Would a 230V be okay for doing automotive sheet metal?
Reply:Originally Posted by rbe4Thanks for the responses.  My first inclination was to go with a 230V unit, but a few “pros” have told me it would be overkill for automotive work (excessive burn-through).  Would a 230V be okay for doing automotive sheet metal?
Reply:Everyone’s been a tremendous help.  I really appreciate your input.
Reply:Just one more voice heard from.  When I bought my welder, I opted for the 220v tapped versus the 110v plus model.  I'm far from an expert but it works for me.  I tend to weld heavier materials, so that was also a factor in my choice.