another tig cooler build and question

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I have most of the items needed to start the build but wanted to ask about the flow, i will indicate what I think it might be but please chime in to let me know if it should be changedTIARon1. return line straight to radiator 2 radiator to holding tank3. tank pumped back to tig gun through pump.if I missed something or should change please let me know.
Reply:You will also need to run antifreeze to stop the coolant freezing in the cooler.
Reply:Remember the return line goes around the cable.  it is downsized based on the expectation it will be cooled by the return flow.  A lot of folks have done it backwards with not so good results.BobI'm spending my Kids inheritance, I dont like him that much anyway!!!!!!Enuff tools to do the job, enough sense to use em.Anybody got a spare set of kidneys?  Trade?
Reply:i thought I wold get far more responses to this post thanks to those that did respond.
Reply:what are you going to use for a pump? procon ?Miller Xmt 350Lincoln Ln-25Ahp 200xSmith Gas Mixer AR/HTig is my Kung FuThrowing down dimes and weaving aboutInstagram http://instagram.com/[email protected]
Reply:Most people try to use an inadequate pump and have all kinds of difficulty. You need a pump that can provide at least 40 psi and 4 gpm of flow or you will have problems. The Procon pumps that are used in beverage carbonators do a fine job and have a pressure relief built-in. All of the commercially manufactured TIG coolers are using these pumps. You can find carbonators for sale used for $40-100 and the pumps are re-buildable, although my pump was in good order when I got it. A carbonator is comprised of a 1/3 or 1/4 HP motor, the Procon pump, a small tank of about 2 1/4 gal size, an electronic level control, and some 3/8 tubing and fittings, all mounted on a small stainless plate. I built my TIG cooler by re-plumbing the used carbonator that I had purchased from a restaurant that had recently replaced their soda fountain. I removed and discarded the level control and added a radiator (actually an auto transmission cooler) that I purchased from the local auto parts store. I looked at heater cores, but decided that the transmission cooler was the better option as it already had 3/8 tubing connections and the size was better suited for the cooler design. I fabricated a sheet metal air shroud and attached two 3" muffin fans so that the air from the fans was forced to go through the cooler fins. The 3" fans were used because I had them. One larger fan would work just as well. I attached this radiator/fan assembly to the side of the carbonator base with some hand made brackets. There is no power switch on my cooler because I plug it into the welder 120 vac outlet and want it always running when the welder is running. All of the pipe fittings on the carbonator were 3/8 flare style, so I used 3/8 barbed fittings to mate with them and 3/8 reinforced clear plastic tubing to do most of the plumbing. I installed a 120 psi max pressure gauge on the pump output so I could readily adjust the pressure as well as monitor the pump's operating status. I reduced the 3/8 lines to 1/4" only for the lines to and from the torch. Since the tank that came with the carbonator was 2 gal in size I used it as the coolant reservoir. This has worked out great with one exception. The fittings in the top of the tank are small and make it difficult to add the coolant. Someday I'll replace one with a larger fitting to make this easier. Coolant replacing and re-filling isn't something that has to be done often, so I may never do it. Patience and a small funnel work OK for now. I decided to use a 50/50 mix of RV antifreeze and distilled water in my cooler, and so far it's working just fine with no sign of algae or other contamination. It has been in there for about 2 years now.Before turning on the pump for the first time, remove the cover on the pressure relief (on the side of the pump) and unscrew the adjustment about 4 turns. The carbonators usually run at 120-140 psi and you don't want this high pressure on your TIG lines. Start the pump and let the coolant circulate for a while to get the bubbles out of the line. Then screw in the pressure relief until your gauge reads 40-45 psi. Now replace the cap over this adjustment to prevent it from being changed. You will need about 40 psi and at least 2 gpm through your TIG torch for up to 200 amps and higher flow for working higher amps. If I hafe not answered all of your questions, please ask and I will be happy to.I posted pictures of my Dialarc HF welder rebuild and DIY TIG cooler. See it here.  http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=34034CharleyLast edited by CharleyL; 06-11-2011 at 12:37 PM.Miller MM252Miller Bobcat 225NTMiller DialArc HF / DIY Cooler2 Victor O/A TorchsetsMilwaukee 8" Metal SawMilwaukee Dry Cut "Chop" Saw 5 Ton Wallace Gantry Various Grinders, Benders, etc.
Reply:I have a procon pump and a motor to drive the pump, i searched unitl I found a great deal for both on ebay together, I have about 150.00 in that and then another 50 in a cooler, 40 for the tank, I have to weld in the fittings and then reweld the tank back together.  I will have a little more than I expected, but far less than a store bought one.  Being that I have bought it individually the hit has'nt been so bad.  I think I have everything at this point and just need to put it together at this point.  The procon came set for the correct psi for a tig cooler as the company that I dealt with rebuilds them and know the the psi required.  Thanks for the responses.Ron
Reply:Originally Posted by Ron Padillai thought I wold get far more responses to this post thanks to those that did respond.