Types of Feet Levels

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Attached are pics of my work table, the top is only 3/8 but the frame can handle more it;s built with 3/16 thick uprights and the rest are 1/8 thick. In the hopes of upgrading the top in the future. The wheels are rated at 900lbs each.     My question is I want to set it up with feet levels and exactly how to attach them to the bottom. I'm looking at the most obvious one, just buy some wheels that have a locking system on them or  get some smaller diamater square tubing for each corner that can be easily pulled out for moving. Will that frame be able to support this application? If not what would be another route to take?Budjet is no more than $80These are the feet I'm thinking about going with:Grade 9: 3/4" bolts and nutsorhttp://www.mcmaster.com/#leveling-feet/=d1v7qp  The ones rated for 500lb eachI like to be overkill but who doesn't.Any help or suggestions will be thankful. Currently I just use rope wrapped around each wheel to prevent movement, but I want more!!!!!Last edited by LMironworks; 07-05-2011 at 11:18 PM.
Reply:For the price of the McMaster levelers that seems the way to go. Not sure if you wanted 4 levelers all around or just 2 on one end to stop movement.Either way I suppose drill through the frame and weld in nuts for the levelers.  I don't really like locking casters myself unless you'll be moving it around a lot.AlA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:I would like to go with 4. I'm with you on  the locking casters, but there are some nice ones out there for the cash. But hell a  foot on each corner sounds good. I'm just worried if I do drill the frame with the leveler going through will it be strong enough over time?
Reply:If you drill through the frame and weld in a nut (maybe round the corner or have it turned) it'll be plenty strong. Basically, because it is a threaded joint you are replacing the metal you are removing with the nut and leveler.Table looks like it's built pretty darned stout anyways so I don't see any problem either way you go really.  Put a leveler next to each caster should be good to go. Of course every time you want to move it you'll  have to get down and raise each leveler. At my age anything done below waist level deserves design considerations.AlA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:Originally Posted by LMironworks . . . I'm looking at the most obvious one, just buy some wheels that have a locking system on them or  get some smaller diameter square tubing for each corner that can be easily pulled out for moving. Will that frame be able to support this application? If not what would be another route to take?. . .
Reply:I have used this design for budget levelers.  3/4" all-thread, with 4 nuts on each.  The flat bar turned on edge keeps the angle iron from bending inwards from the table's weight.  If necessary, you can put a piece of sheet metal under each leveler to keep it from scarring up the concrete as it's threaded up and down.With this design you can loosen the lock-nut a turn or 2, hold it with a wrench, and run the main all-thread up or down quickly with an impact wrench. Attached Images
Reply:If it was my table, I think I would drill straight thru the bottom horizontal, right next to the wheel, and put a big bolt thru it and use a jamb nut to level it. This way you don't even have to turn the table over to work on it, or even unload it, you can drill thru from the top, jack the table up with a floor jack, slip the bolts thru, lower the jack, tighten up the bolts, done. I think I'd use a 3/4" grade 2 bolt, nuts and washers, no high strength hardware needed here, grade 2 steel is about 60,000 psi, 3/4 bolt has slightly less than half an inch cross section, so about 25,000 lbs vertical strength, grade 2 will do. Attached ImagesIan TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools