|
|
Building a bench. Is made out of 3" square tube 11 gage with a little 1.25 square tube thrown in also 11 gage. I burned some 1/8" 6011 at 70 or so amps and also some 1/8" 7018 at 90 or so amps with a Lincoln precision tig 225. But that was slow going so I busted out the majority of it with fcaw using NR-211 with a Lincoln HD 3200 volts on "D" wire speed on 3 . Still need to get the top for the bench, was thinking of some 10 gage sheet.The Bench:Side view for hold rod and cables:Side view with out junk:About the best I can do:Vertical up needs help:The Machines and the rack I build for them:
Reply:what plating are you gonna use for a surface?
Reply:That bench certainly looks sturdy enough. The electrode container rack is unique and should prove quite functional.I am curious though about why you've extended the vertical legs above the horizontal rails and supports? Will you be cutting them off before installing the top?As for that top, I was going to use 3/16" for my similar design/size but realized quickly that it's too light and flexible so I'm on the lookout for something heavier - perhaps 1/2" minimum.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:To tell the truth I don't kwno what I was thinking when I added that extra inch to the vertical post, it would make more sense to leave it flush with the horizontal cross pieces. my wood benchs I made that way For the top I was thinking around 10 gage or 1/8sheet. My "plan" if that seemed to flimsy was to add more square tube re-enforcing members flush with the top horizontal cross members. I even considered making a grid top with the square tube. I'm not really set up to cut something like 1/2" plate and the weight?
Reply:You could consider 'layers' for the top. That's one of the thoughts I had it I can't find some 1/2".It's not too late to trim them off flush with the horizontal side/end rails. I would think it would make installing that top a bit easier.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:A few comments. First, nice welds with the 3200HD. Not easy to do- I know! If you ever try out a nice MIG machine after cutting your teeth on that 3200HD, you won't believe how nice your welds will look.About the table, instead of trying to cut those posts off flush, which I think would be tough, I would build up with some new stock on the flat, even 1" tube. Building up will give you a chance to get a dead flat and level surface. Given the spacing of your cross rails, I would go with 1/4 minimum, better 5/16 or at most, 3/8 in steel. 1/2, I think would be excessive.Finally, consider adding a lower rail for overall stability, even inboard a little if you want some "knee room".Miller XMT304 w/22A Wire FeederLincoln Electric 3200HDHarris OxyAcetylene TorchesHyperTherm Powermax 45
Reply:looks goodthink you should have to measure the thickness of the top in fractions of an inch as opposed to "gauge"out of interest how heavy is the bench now without the top.....im needing one like thatG
Reply:Yes I'm going to trim the extra from the vertical pieces, don't know what I was thinking there Layering may be an Idea. I've also got to look at cost as with tube and wheels I got around $ 120 into material. I went cheap on the wheels there rated 250 pound but were $8 a piece. Four real wheels would have been around $100. I supose I could lure 4 big guys over with beer to lift 1/2" plate into place, but I'm thinking 1/2" plate is big bucks.
Reply:trust me - 1/2" is too heavy and too thick. You want something thick enough that won't flex when you load it or clapm to it. you want a flt surface that you can lay your projects out flat on. With cross rails at about 12 o.c, 5/16 would be very stiff. Adding on multiple sheets does not give you the same stiffness as one sheet.Miller XMT304 w/22A Wire FeederLincoln Electric 3200HDHarris OxyAcetylene TorchesHyperTherm Powermax 45
Reply:Originally Posted by gordfraserlooks goodthink you should have to measure the thickness of the top in fractions of an inch as opposed to "gauge"out of interest how heavy is the bench now without the top.....im needing one like that
Reply:Originally Posted by SolidWeldertrust me - 1/2" is too heavy and too thick. You want something thick enough that won't flex when you load it or clapm to it. you want a flt surface that you can lay your projects out flat on. With cross rails at about 12 o.c, 5/16 would be very stiff. Adding on multiple sheets does not give you the same stiffness as one sheet.
Reply:Well here's my .02 on this.. I don't think 1/2" is to thick.. It all depends on what your going to be building.. You need something that won't bend if you beat on it with a hammer or warp when you weld it to your frame or when you tack parts to hold them in place.. One of the first tables I built was 4' x 5' with a 1/4" top.. As son as I welded it to the frame withc was 2"x3"x1/4" (it's what I had at the time) the top had raises in it where the beads were.. This made it tough when you were laying out longer tubes or flat bar or anything long cuz nothing sat flat on the table.. Maybe I was welding a little hot, who knows? But that table did last to long with me before I sold it off and built a bigger one with a thicker top!The next (and last) table I built is a tank, wells pretty sure it weighs just as much! it's 5'x8'x1"! I can build a chassis (and I have many times) on that thing and it has no flex or movement at all to it.,, Weld to it, grind it and nothing affects it! The frame is made up of 5" x3/8" angle and 4"x4"x1/4 square tube. I know it's over kill but you know what, it's the SECOND I build because I listened to a friend that said "1/4" top, your carzy, that waaaaay to thick" now thousands of dollars later I have a table that will out last my grandkinds (my oldest kid is 10, ) and then some!! Yeah it's freakin heavy, is it on wheels, yes but takes 3 guys to push it around. But honestly I don't care, it's the last one I will ever build! Oh, and I have moved it 4 times, 2 times in sand diego from shop to shop and then storage and then across the border to Mexico top my new shop, everythime in the back of my F250. Last time I had to call a crane to get it out of my truck, cost me 30.00 but well worth it..I'm not saying you NEED build one like mine or enven close to it.. My point is build it ONCE, not TWICE.. Just think of your your going to be using it for and then build it a little stronger for later use!Well I was going o post a picture but don't have one on the home computer.. Tomorow afternoon I'll post.Hope that helps!JasonMiller 252Miller 250Miller Syncrowave 250Esab Plasma Powercut 1250HF Basic oxy/act torches
Reply:Originally Posted by SolidWeldertrust me - 1/2" is too heavy and too thick. You want something thick enough that won't flex when you load it or clapm to it. you want a flt surface that you can lay your projects out flat on. With cross rails at about 12 o.c, 5/16 would be very stiff. Adding on multiple sheets does not give you the same stiffness as one sheet.
Reply:hey go with some good old diamond plate or some 1/2 inch plate it would look good it looks good so far man u have more skill then i do later agwelderold skool idealarc welderEsab multi tool Milwauake 7inch angle grinder the best of all tho the oxyacceteline set up
Reply:Ditto on the 1/2" top. You won't regret it. A buddy of mine has a machine/welding shop. He came across a welding table that is about 3" thick, with square holes everywhere for inserting "dogs" for holding down stuff. Super heavy, but what a table. Wish I had it. I got to thinking about the raised vertical tubes. Might be handy to leave them that way. Could be used to run something under the table top for clamping purposes from both sides.As a matter of personal preference, I wouldn't have mounted the "rod holder" like that. Could be in the way when you want to lay somethin long on the table.Nice looking bench.
Reply:i have limited space so the first table i built was small but very heavy--4x4x3/8 angle..i call it the steel stump...no worries about clamping stuff down..i can weld items to it, beat the piss out of stuff that i weld to the table and nothing moves but the metal under the hammerhead. grind it loose, weld the scars back and smooth it back....mass is its own reward..
Reply:Very nice bench and i like the lead hangers!American by birth Southern by the Grace of God
Reply:Originally Posted by paweldorHe came across a welding table that is about 3" thick, with square holes everywhere for inserting "dogs" for holding down stuff. Super heavy, but what a table.
Reply:One last try.... Anybody can overbuild. Anybody can double the size of what is actually necessary and feel good about how f****** strong the thing is. Good design is a smart blend between what is practical [light enough to move around, won't buckle the wheels, weldable and economical], and what is necessary to acheive your design objective...which in your case is a flat, stiff top.If you were spanning 24" between cross rails [struts], I might agree with the others on 1/2, but your struts are 12"o.c. It looks like your table depth is about 18 or 20" deep. You could put one thousand pounds evenly distributed along that 18" length, midway bewteen two struts on a 3/8-in. plate, and you'd still only get 1/64 in of deflection between the struts. One hundred pounds would give you 1/640.Assuming your table is about 4 ft x 18", a 1/2-in. top would weigh 121 lbs, a 3/8-in. plate would be 90 lbs, A 5/16 in plate would be 75 lbs- which you could actually lift! Looks to me that your table structure without the supplies, already weighs about 200 lbs., so you are getting up there, and you haven't even put your newest project on top yet.Couple of last thoughts. Actually, after going through the numbers, there isn't a huge difference in weight, but I'd still go with the 5/16 or at most 3/8 cuz, its lighter [liftable], cheaper, still very, very stiff if you weld the bottom of the plate at each strut, and much more weldable with your 3200 HD than a 1/2 plate would ever be. The most important thing will be for you to get all your rails and struts in one flat plane so that the top plate doesn't have to flex to bear on all of them. Good Luck.Miller XMT304 w/22A Wire FeederLincoln Electric 3200HDHarris OxyAcetylene TorchesHyperTherm Powermax 45
Reply:I really want to blow chucks at some of the stuff you guys/gals create.......I mean that in a good way.....I hope one day to make even something that remotely looks like that.......I really wished someone would have showed me how to weld years ago......so parents show your young ones, because they grow up to fast.......
Reply:I would buy the thickest you can afford, 1/2'' in no way is to thick for a "WELDING TABLE," I have one that is an inch thick that i drag around in the shop with a fourwheeler, It hasnt ever shown any signs of wear but the one with 1/4" top is thrashed. Just my 2 cents, its your table.Nick
Reply:Originally Posted by SolidWelderOne last try.... Anybody can overbuild. Anybody can double the size of what is actually necessary and feel good about how f****** strong the thing is. Good design is a smart blend between what is practical [light enough to move around, won't buckle the wheels, weldable and economical], and what is necessary to acheive your design objective...which in your case is a flat, stiff top.If you were spanning 24" between cross rails [struts], I might agree with the others on 1/2, but your struts are 12"o.c. It looks like your table depth is about 18 or 20" deep. You could put one thousand pounds evenly distributed along that 18" length, midway bewteen two struts on a 3/8-in. plate, and you'd still only get 1/64 in of deflection between the struts. One hundred pounds would give you 1/640.Assuming your table is about 4 ft x 18", a 1/2-in. top would weigh 121 lbs, a 3/8-in. plate would be 90 lbs, A 5/16 in plate would be 75 lbs- which you could actually lift! Looks to me that your table structure without the supplies, already weighs about 200 lbs., so you are getting up there, and you haven't even put your newest project on top yet.Couple of last thoughts. Actually, after going through the numbers, there isn't a huge difference in weight, but I'd still go with the 5/16 or at most 3/8 cuz, its lighter [liftable], cheaper, still very, very stiff if you weld the bottom of the plate at each strut, and much more weldable with your 3200 HD than a 1/2 plate would ever be. The most important thing will be for you to get all your rails and struts in one flat plane so that the top plate doesn't have to flex to bear on all of them. Good Luck.
Reply:Thanks every one for the input. The table is 30" wide by 5 foot long. A quick grab of info off the net puts steel at 490# cubic foot, so a half inch plate at those diamensions is going to come in a shade over 250#. Not as bad as I thought but no lite weight either. I'll do some pricing of plate including better heaver duty wheels maybe and see what I come up with. Like alot of these things sometimes price makes you compromise. I'll post pics when I'm done. Thanks again for the suggestions
Reply:Very nice table! I'm going to build one someday...Speaking of a stiff table top, I helped a friend of mine move some tables that are used for overhauling airplane propellers. The ground steel tops were about 6 feet long, 16 inches wide, and 4 inches thick! They were a #$%! to move!America Needs AMERICA'S Oil!!!"Global warming is the greatest scam in history ...There is no run away climate change. The impact of humans on climate is not catastrophic. Our planet is not in peril."--John Coleman, Founder of The Weather Channel
Reply:This one I just finished!Its 26" wide x 56" long, the bottom is 12 guage and is 24"x36"x36" it was made from another shelf type table that I had, and I turned the shelves upside down so that they would make a cart type unit so things don't fall off when moved. the top is made from 1/4" plate, and it seems sturdy enough for me!Like others have said, it all depends on what you plan on using it for, I wanted this to be light enough to move easily, and yet strong enough to work on the small items I will be building on it, so for me, 1/4" steel plate made sense.I don't ever plan on plopping any huge heavy things on this one, I plan on building a stationary one, and that one will have a 1/2" thick top.Good luck on yours!Ken. Attached Images#1. If you don't like what I wrote, or if it offends you, then don't read it!#2. I am living life the way I see fit, if you don't like the way I'M living, tough sh**!Hey Duane: I'm with you- no ruffled feathers- just everyone expressing his opinion. BTW that is some humungo table you built yourself. Nice welds. I wish I could get that kind of scrap from at work.I noticed that you used a plasma cutter. I'm an admitted toolaholic, and have been thinking about buying a plasma cutter too, but also want really badly to learn to use my O/A torch better, thinking that O/A is the more authentic, skilled, rugged way to go- you know what I mean. How long were you into welding before you got a plasma cutter. Do you also O/A torch cut things?Miller XMT304 w/22A Wire FeederLincoln Electric 3200HDHarris OxyAcetylene TorchesHyperTherm Powermax 45
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55That bench certainly looks sturdy enough. The electrode container rack is unique and should prove quite functional.I am curious though about why you've extended the vertical legs above the horizontal rails and supports? Will you be cutting them off before installing the top?As for that top, I was going to use 3/16" for my similar design/size but realized quickly that it's too light and flexible so I'm on the lookout for something heavier - perhaps 1/2" minimum.
Reply:The plasma tends to make a cleaner, quicker cut and puts alot less heat into the work piece. My Powermax 350 is only a 25amp unit that does great on 3/16 and thinner, very good on 1/4", good on 3/8" and a little slow going on 1/2" so the O/A torch still has it's place in cutting. Can't cut aluminum or stainless very well with O/A either. I've been a hobby weldor for about 35 years and welded as part of my job for a number as well.I was exposed to plasma cutters about 16-18 years ago but just got my used Hypertherm last year. You should definately strive to get and learn everything you can from O/A as there's a time and a place for both as stated above - just like the different welding processes including O/A.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Great information here, thanks guys! I am planning a small mobile table maybe 2'x3' but hate to spend a lot of money on casters. I was thinking about a 1/4" thick top but didn't realize that info about deflection and struts. [hat tip, Solidwelder] But then again, I am too old to be picking up projects weighing more than 100 lbs and putting them on my workbench. Nice bench dakook!SteveJunkYard Tools .com
Reply:Good job on the table. If you have a scrap steel yard that sells to the public, they usually have plenty of extra heavy duty casters very reasonable. Check them out, usually they only need cleaning up and grease.
Reply:Duane,Nice job on the table!! I had a early Palcon Plasma 12 years ago and I was sold on them (problem then was the consumables were not very good and it did not pierce very well. What sold me was the lack of sparks and slag rolling all over my shop!A month or so ago I purchased the latest small Hypertherm the PM-45 it is rated to severe 1" and it will drag cut 3/4" to date I have cut 1/2" clean enough to tig with no additional grinding!! The physical size is not much larger then yours and for the money/time savings it was a great deal at $1500! It came with Gouging consumables that allowed me to arc out a poorly done repair on a small escavator bucket was 3/4" material!! AS for me the torch will be used for preheat, bending material and OA welding where I can't yet tig with confidence.Keep up the good work and posting of your projects!TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot, Chaplain CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Very nice. I need to build a welding table but I have a move planned within the next year and I am already tired of my friends complaining about how heavy my wood work bench and tool box is. As soon as I move I am building a welding table. Until then, I will check out all of good looking tables you all are building and use what seems to work.
Reply:Hey Dakook,Any closeups of the framework over your Precision TIG? Thinking of making a hybrid of your design and Duaneb55's storage rack from another thread.Thanks,SteveMillermatic185Miller Spectrum 375Lincoln Precision TIG 185O/A setupOptrel Satellite (Blue)DeWalt Chop Saw
Reply:Originally Posted by BigSteveHey Dakook,Any closeups of the framework over your Precision TIG? Thinking of making a hybrid of your design and Duaneb55's storage rack from another thread.Thanks,Steve
Reply:Originally Posted by UltrachopDuane,Nice job on the table!! I had a early Palcon Plasma 12 years ago and I was sold on them (problem then was the consumables were not very good and it did not pierce very well. What sold me was the lack of sparks and slag rolling all over my shop!A month or so ago I purchased the latest small Hypertherm the PM-45 it is rated to severe 1" and it will drag cut 3/4" to date I have cut 1/2" clean enough to tig with no additional grinding!! The physical size is not much larger then yours and for the money/time savings it was a great deal at $1500! It came with Gouging consumables that allowed me to arc out a poorly done repair on a small escavator bucket was 3/4" material!! AS for me the torch will be used for preheat, bending material and OA welding where I can't yet tig with confidence.Keep up the good work and posting of your projects!Tim
Reply:If you want to use 1/8 or 3/16 to keep it light and plan to use for more than just welding. you can heat the sheet I use a Tagger tourch heat the sheet have some one keep it hot till your done welding it and when it cools it will pull real tight and act like 1/4 or thicker. This is what I do for trailer floors and usually use 1/8 and it does not bend or give at all an I have see guys put heavy soil and gravel in the trailers.
Reply:DaKook,Nice work indeed, infact I am envious as I am working on a 10ft layout table I bought from a auction (no steel top) Duane, I just turned my shop a little more blue, I purchased a MM252 and today I played with it on 3/8 plate .035 wire. Tomorrow I am going to put in some .030 and get to work building a cart for the little Plasma cutter. I promised myself to build my tig cart out of Aluminum! I am only a ??? number of hours away to where I feel confident to tackle the square tube AL.You guys are sure inspirational as to design and what the outcome should look like (keep the photos coming)Thanks again,TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot, Chaplain CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Originally Posted by dakookthis is what I have, if you want more detail of something I can take more pictures:
Reply:The Precision Tig is just slid into the frame. I didn't bolt it to the frame. The lower frame I made out of 3" square tube. The wheels are TSC cheapies. I was to lazy to drill holes and bolt them to the frame. So I just welded the wheel plate right to the frame, actually it's not much more than a tack as I want to be able to grind a wheel off easy if one goes south. I did glom on a coat of rustoleum with a brush to the cart |
|
发表于 2021-9-1 00:13:06