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I'd like to start a new project and would like some suggestions regarding material. I'd like to make something like these keyboard stands.DESIGNMy version of these stands doesn't have to be so flexible (ie: it doesn't have to fold down). Honestly, I don't think there is any welding on these stands as pictured - they simply use plastic molds at all the joints and lock them down. There are the sides (A frames) and there are the actual keyboard stands (crossbars). I think there are two options for me here, weld the stand crossbars permanently (which would essentially "fix" the keyboard heights forever) or devise some type of joinery that would slip over the legs and allow the crossbars in ... and obviously the joint needs to lockdown somehow. Any suggestions? Pictures? Conceptually, I'd like to do something like what a smith machine does. It tries to be clever by allowing you to hang the squat bar at all kinds of different heights. That doesn't map perfectly to this keyboard stand idea - but I'm looking for ideas along those lines.MATERIALSThere are two aspects to these stands worth mentioning. 1) The stands are generally made out of aluminum and 2) the stands are made out of tubing.My guess is that aluminum keeps it light and strong. Now, I'm just beginning to arc weld and I haven't done any aluminum yet so I will likely just go with steel for now ... which brings me to my second question ... is there any "strength" reason to use round pipe over say something like square tubing? If I use round pipe, I'd likely want to notch the ends which I've not done before .... but if I use square tube, it seems like I'd just butt up the miter joints. Do I have that right? Any suggestions on why I'd really want to choose one over the other? Strength? Weight? Easy of work?Also, is it safe to weld metal electrical conduit for a project like this or do I need to go purchase some real pipe/tubing. Is metal conduit even a viable, weldable material? I've only really ever practiced on angle and plate.Thanks!
Reply:Is the metal conduit galvanized? the gasses from from welding that stuff are pretty lethal ...ESAB Heliarc 252
Reply:Having a project in mind is a great way to learn welding. A couple of thoughts.You didn't say what welder you were going to use? That will matter a lot. If using arc / stick welder, you will probably NOT want to go with really thin material. You could weld on pretty thin material using 6013 AC with small diameter rod (1/16" if you can find it...), but I would practice A LOT to ensure no burn thru.A good choice for thin materials using oxy-gas welding is fillet brazing (do a search on bicycle framebuilding).--For first time welder, you definitely want to stay away from aluminum. Steep learning curve, requires more expensive welders (TIG, or suitcase/reel on gun MIG)For this type of project there are three shapes of metal that would work. Angle iron, square tubing or round tubing. For first time project, square tubing has some advantages. It has a nice appearance. You can purchase different sizes and gauge to create a slip fit for height adjustments easily. (Drill multiple holes in one tube, use bolt to adjust height) Its a little bit heavier than round tubing, and its not as strong in torsion. For your project, this won't matter. Square tubing is pretty easy to fit up, much easier than round tubing.If the welds are a wee bit not so pretty, and you plan ahead with bevels, etc on your joints, you can hand file or grind down the welds for a very nice appearance in the finished project. (This MUCH more difficult on either angle iron or round tubing...) If you plan ahead, you can predrill all holes on a drill press (I'm thinking about those adjustable legs...)Conduit would probably work strength wise, BUT its very dangerous to weld on anything galvanized, and fit up will drive you crazy. Its also very thin.. and that requires a very high skill level to weld. Recommendation.. create the project first in a CAD system.. perhaps google's free program, sketch-up. Figure out the best way to do the adjustable height thing. Feel free to post up either photos or initial design proposals here.. Like many of us have realized... if you just want the keyboard stand, go out and make a purchase. If you want to build it, have some fun, take pride in something that you created.. welding it yourself is the place to go. Do note.. that the $$ costs will likely be the same. Folks here enjoying helping folks who really want to learn (and are willing to listen..) One recommendation.. add your location to your profile. You may be surprised someone here may well offer you onsite assistance. Good luck,zip.Metro Detroit, Michigan
Reply:Here's a CAD sketch of a square tubing slip fit, adjustable length.. say for a table leg? Alternative is to place the series of holes in the smaller tube, one hole in the outer tube. Use countersink bolt so you don't wack your knees on the thing. whatever... Attached Images
Reply:Thanks for the replies.I have a Lincoln Electric AC/DC 225 and have most of my practice in the flat position ... 30 or so hours (3/32 6013, 7018 and 1/8 6011).And yep, I'm much more interested in the 'project' of the keyboard stand than actually buying it. It has a practicality for me but it isn't simply laying bead either. I'm not sure the best approach to weld it yet - but figure I'll clamp it together and lay bead on all the straight lines. It'd be nice to actually go around the entire butt joints but I still need to see what that feels like.Assuming I can cut/prep the joints relatively well with a miter saw, I assume I should be fine with one pass when butting pieces for the sides (A frame) together ... but is there any obvious reason I need to consider 3 passes ... or some other approach?Great points regarding the conduit - galvanization and the thinness seem obvious now that you all mention it.Downloading Sketchup as we speak. Great suggestion - and thanks for the pic example!
Reply:where is the stability no plans for gussets or anything to keep the welds together?wbolden
Reply:I intend to weld cross-members across the A-frame side but a gusset in the corners wouldn't be bad either ... but is it necessary?I don't have any experience designing metal projects but I imagined it'd go together like a simple bicycle frame - just a bunch of butt joints with some supporting cross-members.
Reply:Luther, I have a stand that is very similar to the KSV2 pictured on that site. Mine is made of steel. Just an FYI.PapaLincoln Idealarc 250 (circa 1962)Lincoln Weldpak 155 w/Mig KitLincoln Squarewave TIG 175 |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:12:11