Railing questions

admin

Hello everyone, I just had my first interaction with having something welded for my house (no equipment or skills to do it myself unfortunately) and while everything appeared to look good on the (night) of installation, I now have some concerns over the railings I purchased.Please let me know which of the following things are normal and if they can be fixed. Total spent on these railings for 4 stairs at the front of my house was around $700.  Rained yesterday, and started rusting immediately.  Some of the posts have a bead all the way around, but the really rusty ones do not like these twoAlso noticed a big chunk of the bottom rail missingAnd finally it looks like the screw used to attach to the wall has pulled out from the wall as the railing is slightly off anglePlease let me know what's normal, what's not, did I get screwed completely? It's possible my expectations were too high, looking to you professionals and hobbyists alike for your opinionsLast edited by newrailings; 08-09-2011 at 10:37 AM.
Reply:I would never let anyone see, if I had done something like that. I would cut it up and put it in the trash at night. Unfortunately, I have seen worse pass inspection. Although it certainly looks like shi+, there may be nothing technically wrong with the rusty spots. Where the bracket meets the wall is certainly in need of repair. I would ask for repairs on everything you can find. If the guy is legit he will try to make you happy. I am not sure how much railing you have there, but $700 would be a very small job for me. If he underbid the job he may have rushed it out the door or let a minimum wage floor sweeper do the work.How much railing is there? Where is it? What state do you live in?Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:Picture of both railings. 68" from end of railing to wall.  In NH.My real question about the joint where the (spindle? post?) hits the bottom bar is whether they should be welded all the way around or just the sides?  The other side of the railing has more that are welded all the way around with no gapthanks for your reply
Reply:Welding just the sides should be plenty strong. But it leaves a space for the rust to run out as you have seen. I weld all of my tubes shut when possible and if there must be a vent hole it should be on the underside of the bottom rail. The fact that some are done and some are not seems to suggest that this was an oversight. I'd ask him to finish welding all of them.Is this gonna get inspected? If so the lambs tongues might need to be re-done as well. At least in California, it's illegal to have the railing end in a point, they must return to the post, this is intended to make it so old ladies can't hook their purse over the end.Ian TannerKawasaki KX450 and many other fine tools
Reply:No inspection that I know of (and no old ladies) so less concerned about those, but what is the lambs tongue supposed to look like instead? I will give him a call to see how he wants to proceed or if I'm on my own to spray these guys with rustoleum every weekthanks again for your guidanceLast edited by newrailings; 08-09-2011 at 11:37 AM.
Reply:If there is entry way for water at the top and you weld around the bottom, and you're in NH, then you will be replacing balusters next year.  The balusters will burst, if water gets trapped inside.  Make sure he seal the top as well.  bondo would work,  especially since it looks as though he used flux core.  Does it have white streaks running.  Bondo will not rust.  Residual flux will promote rust. Good Luck.Last edited by tapwelder; 08-09-2011 at 09:46 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by newrailingsNo inspection that I know of (and no old ladies) so less concerned about those, but what is the lambs tongue supposed to look like instead?