Smaw 6013

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Could someone fill me in on the properties of 6013 rods?  Burned three rods today for "trial" and REALLY liked how it had some of the positive properties of 6011 and 7018.  Didnt stick, started an arc easily, and left a beaut of a svelte bead.  Is it as care-free as the other 60's?ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:what exactly do you wanna know about them?
Reply:Various properties .  Was it just me or is it "in between" 6011 and 7018.  What should I know as a beginner to control this rod for the better?  What tricks would you recommend?  How does it really differ from 6010/11?  Does it like less or more amperage?  Is it AC capable?It'd be good to get a comprehensive thread of all the SMAW rods and the more detailed properties.  Once I got using the 7018 I got hooked on the stuff and really like working with it.  Ive gotten WAY better with my 6010/11 work, but only by pounding out 3 boxes worth (nothing really I know).ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:they are AC rods, they are a contact rod (lightly drag the tip while welding, do not hold a gap), all position rods, and yes they are similiar to 7018 and 6011
Reply:As far as I know 6013 is an all purpose rod. Like stated above, its an AC rod but works on DC too.   We used it on the farm when I was a youngin.  We also had a Forney AC welder where you plugged the hot into the right tap.  I think 6011 is an AC 6010.  7018 has Low hydragen properties that helps keep from cracking on better carbon steels.  7018 has more tensil strength and will take on the properties of the parent metal.60 means 60,000 tensil strength.  The 1 means all position, the 3 is the type of rod.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:6013 is an AC rod that is easy to use and it will make pretty welds consistantly in the flat position.  It is an all position rod, but most pros will not use it on a job site.  It DOES NOT HAVE ADEQUATE PENETRATION for CRITICAL work.  Know which rod to use for each situation and you will do fine.
Reply:This is a great guide, read through it and let us know how you like it :http://www.millerwelds.com/education...ps/stick_tips/John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Thanks guys.  Yeah, Ive been worshiping that Miller link for some time now.  Pretty much the only resource demonstrating what certain welds will look like when things are askew, and basic properties.  Unfotunately it doesnt really describe how different rods "handle".  After some surfing it looks like 6013 is a little like 6010 in that it can handle unprepped materials fairly well (Id still use a grinder).Also, has anyone else noticed that the Miller "suggested settings" are a bit off (as in high)?ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Some additional info courtesy of Lincoln tutorials. Attached Images
Reply:I used 6013 and 7014 for years on AC. I thought that 7014 was the best.  Then with my Miller Idealarc AC / DC ( using DC), I use 6010 for root passes and 7018 (low hydrogen and X-Rayable) for the weld.  I still stock all , 6010, 6011, 6013, 7014 and 7018. I even stock 308L Stainless rod for my SMAW.  I use SMAW for structural,  I use my MIG for speed . I use my TIG for prescision welding with both steel and aluminum.  I love to stick weld even though it throws sparks everywhere, it's my kind of welding, sparks and smoke (and 6011 will weld rusty, dirty, painted metal  to  rusty, dirty , painted, metal ).  My TIG is almost too clean, but I use it for almost everything now, it's a great toy.  Don't get me started on OA welding, I can make a bead the looks just like a TIG on steel.I love SMAW, but I still pick the welding process for the particular job.Mike
Reply:Used for its appropriate application 6013 is a very good general rod.It geves a good appearance.No one is saying weld boilers or bridges ,or crane booms or bulldozer rippers with them. Light structural items are a great application. The electrode is intended to be matched to the metal and function of the weldment. I have seen some comment written on electrode selection and use that simply is not correct.Guys ,the base metal content determines the the outright tensile strength.Used properly on a given grade of mild steel plate welded with 7018 CANNOT be proportionally stronger than the exact same grade of plate properly welded with say a 6013.In terms of strength attained there is no real advantage.I have often  selected LH rods over rutile /Titania based rods because of the deoxiding ability.Try welding dirty and rusty steel even after sandblasting and the LH's will still pull the **** out of the pool. You will know about it too!, because what you often get is a pop or crack and the foreign material is often "spat"out of the pool usually all over you when you have not put on welding leathers.In a career of twenty five years I have trained and observed possibly a thousand welders of varying degrees of ability. I speak from a background of that experience.Ok peace brothersnot trying to upset or inflame anyoneGrahame
Reply:E 6013 which has a rutile coating is also called a farmers rod.  In Britain / Europe rutile electrodes are much more commonly used.  The "fast follow" characteristic makes this rod particularly nice for making gauge metal machinery guards and the like.  A fast, hot downhill bead on the outside corner of light material looks especially nice and it is often faster than using MIG.   Flux core wires have rutile as the main flux component.  I am trying to remember but rutile is a titanium oxide mineral compound... correct me if I am wrong.  If I have a simple AC buzz box my first choice would be this rod,  Last month I had to connect up some handrailing out in the field I ended up using all the '13 I had brought along.  To appreciate the fast follow effect start a bead then slowly increase your speed of advance.  You will be able to still maintain a bead while you thin it right out.  The weld pool in effect follows along without skipping.
Reply:Originally Posted by lotechmanThe "fast follow" characteristic makes this rod particularly nice for making gauge metal machinery guards and the like.  A fast, hot downhill bead on the outside corner of light material looks especially nice and it is often faster than using MIG. To appreciate the fast follow effect start a bead then slowly increase your speed of advance.  You will be able to still maintain a bead while you thin it right out.  The weld pool in effect follows along without skipping.
Reply:I use it when I know I will be grinding down welds flush for cosmetics. 6013 tends to build up instead of digging into the metal like 6011 or 6010.I also build a lot of security cages.  The cages are of 16 guage steel.  It is fast and slag easily pops off.  Sometimes slag pop of from vibration from moving the cage around.
Reply:Only thing I use '13 for is light gauge and expanded metal. Runs pretty good either polarity, you can realy turn it down if need be, available in small sizes, and doesn't dig. I dont really like it for anything else. I'm pretty much a '10/'18 kinda guy.
Reply:Originally Posted by DirtyLittleSecret v More than half of the properties in this thread arent   members.  Thanks.