O/A for Ornamental work?

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It seems like the majority of guys use MIG or stick for ornamental railing work. Is there any reason not to use O/A?  I have a gas setup but will buy a MIG if need be.TIA for your insights.-- Bob
Reply:mig will be a lot faster and easier, I like the look of OA welds and cant really think of any reason you couldnt use it. Might not have enough heat for thicker sections without using a fairly large torch though.
Reply:use whats comfortable for you...send fotos..
Reply:OA is a LOT slower than the other processes - but the beads are super clean, no need to grind afterward.When I moved to SMAW from OA welding I was shocked at how much faster the stick was!  You really don't appreciate how slow OA is until you get to use MIG or stick.Having said that, I really like OA welding (still use it on thin stuff) because it is so clean and you have so much control over the puddle.  In hindsight I think learning with OA was a really big help when I finally decided to move to an electric process - I understood what was happening far better than I would have.Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:This is good (and surprising) news.  I thought for sure I would be advised against doing it with gas.  I only have two 6-foot sections of handrail to fabricate so I don't think the added time will be much of a problem.My real concern was distorting the work with the heat of the O/A but I guess that's not an issue.  Now that I think about it, I guess iron railings were done with gas all the time years ago.-- Bob
Reply:Originally Posted by bobbytThis is good (and surprising) news.  I thought for sure I would be advised against doing it with gas.  I only have two 6-foot sections of handrail to fabricate so I don't think the added time will be much of a problem.My real concern was distorting the work with the heat of the O/A but I guess that's not an issue.  Now that I think about it, I guess iron railings were done with gas all the time years ago.-- Bob
Reply:Your concern about heat distortion is right on the money - you WILL have to deal with it and OA does make it worse than some other processes, but it is something that can be handled.It helps me to remember that metal shrinks after being heated/cooled - you will probably need carefully applied heat on the opposite side of your welds at the picket/rail joints.  I recommend that you experiment with some scrap that is long enough to show deformation - a few pickets welded to a section of railing.OA on ornamental steel is a good case of "less is more" - the less weldment the less the distortion.If you decide to figure it out as you go there is a good chance you will create more work for yourself than you need to (don't ask me how I know).Hobart LX235Victor 250 Oxy-Acetylene Rig (welding and cutting)Bobcat 773F-350, 1999, 4x4, 16' 10K# trailerOutdoor Wood Burner - 10 cords/year
Reply:Originally Posted by gwileyyou will probably need carefully applied heat on the opposite side of your welds at the picket/rail joints.
Reply:Mig welded but as you can see the heat distorted the tubing so I applied heat to the opposite side of the bend to bring it back to shapeEd Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:I see. Can you check your progress as you heat the back or do you have to let it cool first?
Reply:Originally Posted by bobbytI see. Can you check your progress as you heat the back or do you have to let it cool first?
Reply:Some have suggested that I braze the railing assembly. In that case, I'd be braze welding with a fillet, right?  Should I use the flux-coated brazing rod or plain rod dipped in canned flux?  If canned, is there a preferred type?Thanks,Bob
Reply:I'm not much of a welder but years ago I built some ornamental porch post using OA. The cast parts were iron and the post steel so I brazed them, at the advice of a friend. I used flux coated bronze rods and so far everything has held up perfect. First time I had ever brazed anything.
Reply:I would select the coated rods.Regardless of how you proceed, the key is a fixture that won't distort when you heat the rail.  Then, figuring how to treat the distortion that does occur.  Pinning would replace the need to tack weld/braze.
Reply:I prefer a can of flux ($10) and the 36 inch long 1/16 or 3/32 inch diam solid brass rods - way cheaper way to go than flux coated rods that don't seem to come in any diameter but too big.Also save your 'stubs' because you can weld/braze these together on a fire-brick to form a kinky longer rod that you can use for further brazing.Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderI would select the coated rods.Pinning would replace the need to tack weld/braze.
Reply:Yes.  Drill through the channel and baluster.  Why not use channel top and bottom?  Turn the top channel "u" toward the cap.  With two channels and pinned balusters you could build the rail, set the pitch directly on the steps, then add cap last. You will need rectangular holes to account for the pitch.  Square holes work only when balusters at 90 degrees.
Reply:I'm rethinking this and considering buying a MillerMatic 180 or a Lincoln Power Mig 180c.  Overall less distortion and less time consuming labor than drilling and pinning each balluster.   I'm thinking that even though they only claim 3/32" capacity (for the Lincoln), it would be enough power to weld 1/2" pickets to 1/4" channel since I'll be welding on 4 sides.Any reason I shouldn't go this way?Thanks,Bob
Reply:I use a Lincoln Power Mig 180c.   Had mine for 4+ yrs.   Many folk like the Hobart equivalent class, do a search compare.   Good luck