|
|
So if your electrode melts away then you have put it too far out, I see what has been recommended, and last night I tried to keep the tip out like it was suggested here, and it just melted back to the cup edge. this was 1/16th.I had the max at 100 but so thats too much. I was still having trouble with getting the puddle started, and learning a lot about cleaning and using two different thickness's and types of aluminum. It seemed that the shielding gas was coming out, and was about 20 according to the gage. The equipment at the school I am using is pretty abused by young kids who are unhappy with life, the torch I am using has a section broken out of it where the collet body is attached, so I don't know if there are other minor problems that are making it harder. I can get the weld to work fine on either piece of aluminum, with a flat weld but when I am doing the T it is very hard to get the puddle for some reason.
Reply:Whoa, hold on there, what the heck are you talking about?!!The tungsten electrode DOES NOT MELT provided you have not exceeded the current carrying capacity, and you have proper INERT gas shielding, and you have not contaminated the tungsten by dipping it into the pool or hitting it with the filler wire.It is more difficult to form a puddle in an aluminum fillet weld. The aluminum oxide melts at a much higher temperature than the base metal, and it acts as a barrier to getting the melt on each side of the joint to "wet" together into a single pool. The melt on each side of the joint wants to ball up and retract away from each other due to surface tension. You need to dab in some filler wire to get the separate melts to wet together and bridge the joint.Don't lolly-gag around trying to get the weld started, get in there hot and heavy, get the melt started, dab in some wire, and go!
Reply:Yep, it sounds to me like he's trying to use it like SMAW. I had a friend come up that wanted to try TIG, he completely ruined my tungsten and nozzle. He kept trying to "add filler to the tungsten" !! Ugh !John - fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!- bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Note - the tungsten does NOT touch the metal or the wire. It is held between 1/8 and 1/4 away from the work. You move the arc along the metal, not the tung. tip.John - fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!- bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:No I didn't touch the filler or weld to the tungsten, I did over power it, though. I couldn't get the aluminum to melt, I wire brushed it and even used a cleaner made for it. It was 1/16 or the next size down and it just disappeared up into the cup, after some more tries,I was able to get the puddle the reason was the table was heat sinking, so I put it over the edge with much better results. Again on the flat there was no problem but in the "t" it was a real problem. I will try some different aluminum, I got all this from a scrap yard an don't know what kind it was. thanks for the help I will figure all this out, have some reading to do.
Reply:Go to 3/32 electrode (tungston). That will handle at least 150 amps. AC right? Try again..... And again... till you get it. DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Thanks I am not giving up. The outside corners and flats and butts are all going well, its just the T's with this junk aluminum.
Reply:The only times my tungsten has melted so far is when I forget to turn on the gas."Common sense is not very common"http://www.tahoekeyshome.com
Reply:You said that the torch body was broken around the collet body. Are you losing shielding gas through the opening? Try this,...take out your tungsten, tighten the collet up as if there were a tungsten inserted, and turn on your gas to the CFM that you are using. Now place your finger over the cup openming and listen. Is gas flowing out of the torch body? Also, are you using pure Argon?good luck,cricman
Reply:yes using pure argon, I will try the leak test. thanks. |
|
发表于 2021-9-1 00:11:26