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Here are some hinges I fabricated. They are for an awning company. I am making the frame, also. I can't get rid of the crater. It seems to appear where ever I stop welding, doesn't matter how long I hesitate.The material is 1/4" plate the barrel 1/8" wall and 3/4"od. All 4043 al. The hinge pins and spacers are stainless steel.If you are thinking about one of the spool guns, I hope you have opportunity to try both the Miller and lincoln. I tried the miller last week and was much more impressed.
Reply:nothing wrong with those. Maybe position the crater opposite the end of the weld in tension.....just a thought....Last edited by ironken; 05-24-2008 at 12:28 PM.Yeah, yeah, I know you are a weldor too. But, are you a good one?
Reply:Neat...About your crater, I have seen a bunch of aluminum mig lately and I have noticed that almost all of the welds have craters...Most simple migs don't allow you to reduce heat at the end of the weld and crater-fill like you can with tig and a foot pedal. also, just a thought.Smithboy...if it ain't broke, you ain't tryin'.
Reply:tapwelder, regarding the miller, which do you recommend (which one were you impressed with)?
Reply:The crater is caused from lifting the wire from the melted weld pool. If you want to stop it for sure just let your finger off the trigger and let the wire get hard in the puddle then cut it off when cool, a few seconds later...BobBob WrightSalem, Ohio Birthplace of the Silver & Deming Drillhttp://groups.yahoo.com/group/southbend10k/http://groups.yahoo.com/group/sawking/1999 Miller MM185 w/ Miller 185 Spoolmate spoolgun
Reply:Those sure look like tig welds to me. Especially with the high frequency affected zone showing around the weld.Whoever sold you the aluminum pipe lied to you because I can clearly see 6061 printed on the pipe or tube.
Reply:Those damn aluminum craters, i try to put a big tack at the end of the weld and run the weld into the tack and blend it in, or give it a quick zap before it solidifys. the white lines on either side are from the layer of oxide burning up on the surface of the metal. did u lathe those?Nothing Ever Got Done By Quitting, Never Give Up.
Reply:Sorry, I used 4043 filler, you are correct it 6061. However, they are mig welds.Thanks for the input, I'll try the remedies.From what I experienced the Miller is the better machine. The spool gun first just feel and look more substantial, I think that would the first impression most would get. The miller spool gun has two rollers and a way to tension the feed. They say it can be used for ms and ss. The lincoln has a drive roller and a flat spring that provides fixed tension and is for Al. When I used the miller it started noticeably hotter, With my lincoln it I must hesitate before I begin to move. I have been welding 1/4" and 1/8" material exclusively, I welded 1/8" with the miller. The Autoset on the miller migs would only be a plus. The Autoset works for steel. The lincoln does weld well. I got it when they first came out and it paid for itself in two very small jobs. I would expect lincoln to make improvements soon.I did center drill and bore one side of the barrel on a lathe, the pin was hammered into the other.Last edited by tapwelder; 05-25-2008 at 05:24 PM.
Reply:tapwelder,Double back at the end of your weld to eliminate craters, and cracking problems that occur for craters. (GMAW guide Lincoln Electric)Waldo
Reply:[QUOTE=tapwelder;188774]All ... al. The hinge pins and spacers are stainless steel.[QUOTE]There may be some intersting corrosion in those hinges given time. They may have been better if you could have used a hardened AL alloy for the pins and spacers.I worked part-time for a chandlery (yacht supply store) a few summers ago. SS in direct contact with AL is generally regarded as a no-no in that circle. Of course, that was considering a sea-water environment where everything corrodes faster. I suppose if the environment where the awnings are installed is not too soggy they may well outlast the fabric. Member, AWSLincoln ProMIG 140Lincoln AC TombstoneCraftsman Lathe 12 x 24 c1935Atlas MFC Horizontal MillCraftsman Commercial Lathe 12 x 36 c1970- - - I'll just keep on keepin' on.
Reply:Thanks MondoI was concerned about that too. I originally ordered some barrel hinges. They made the same way only extremely small. They were rated at 240 lbs much more than I need, though they were so small I couldn't weld them with my spool gun without burning them up. This is hopefully a temporary setup. I'll start another thread on hardened Al.
Reply:This is where a machine like the Lincoln Power Mig 350MP comes in handy. It has crater control. It will ramp down the WFS which results in a controlled filling of the weld crater. Some other machines simply step down the WFS to a percentage of the welding WFS. Both work, one seems to work better for this purpose. I was specificially looking at welding aluminum and the smaller units just didn't have the features and ability(POWER) that this unit did.Which is why I passed on a great deal on a Power Mig 300. But if you rarely weld aluminum, maybe this machine would be a crazy expense. But you did say yourself that the other unit paid for itself in two jobs. Think of the jobs you could do with a capable machine. I tend to "overbuy" but I have never regretted it, yet. I have "UnderBought" many times and kicked myself in the rear because of it.Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Sorry. I missed the point. You were showing the SPOOL gun use. My bad.You say that the Lincoln sg100 is not as stout as you want. Is it possible to use another spoolgun on that unit? I am not familiar with any of the spool guns. Can you use the miller gun on your Lincoln powersource?Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Would it help to start at the ends and meet in the middle? That way you would get started cold and maybe not crater so much. Just a thought, I don't get paid to make those sorts of determinations.
Reply:When you end your weld you should stop the bead then give it a quick "tack" in the crater to fill it. Hpoe that makes sense......It always worked for me. Also if you are still considering a spoolgun get a profax (used to be Airco years ago). Millers and lincolns wont last as long.Last edited by busyman; 04-15-2009 at 10:37 PM.
Reply:As was said by Bob Wright and a couple others about doubling back over the end. I find after doing that if I break the arc quick by 'flicking' the gun to the side as I break the arc it helps also........Mike |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:11:07