welding angle steel

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I need to weld some angle steel ( 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 1/8 wall), and after reading the threads about coping vs mitering have decided to cope the corners. Question is, my Lincoln SP 135 T recommends the highest amperage setting and a wire feed speed of 3, will I not burn through when welding where the ends meet at the bevel?  Should I turn down the amps? I am using .035 flux core wire.
Reply:The maximum weld thickness, per Lincoln, on that machine should be around 3/16" with flux. So, you will not burn through. You can also start at the corner and weld out. This aids in preventing burn through in the corners or ends of material. Give it a shot and let us know how it works out.Last edited by MicroZone; 05-23-2007 at 01:59 PM.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Why are you beveling 1/8 inch steel? I would think with coped angle the edges would be fine left square.
Reply:I am not bevelling the steel. What I was referring to was where the two square coped pieces meet it forms a 90 degree "V", I just referred to that area as a bevel of sorts.
Reply:You want to start your weld bead on a thin area where there is few places for the heat to travel.  That location is the inside corner of your coped joint where the legs of the angles touch.  As you travel you will approach the corner where the increasing heat can travel in several directions.  As a general rule you weld from the toes of the angles to the heels of the angles.  Don't turn down the amps/heat unless you have to.
Reply:Youll have to experiment.  When you 'cope' angle, you should do a z pattern (its the way I think of it).  Its more of a notch and tab kinda thing, with alot more weld length and strength.Various GrindersVictor Journeyman torch200cf Acet. 250cf oxygenLincoln 175 plus/alpha2 gunLincoln v205t tigLincoln 350mpEsab 650 plasmaWhen you can get up in the morning, Its a good day.Live each day like its your last.
Reply:A couple o' things.First, your settings on the SP135T for 1/8 inch thick steel with 0.035 FC wire would be MAX on the VOLTAGE dial, and 3 +/- on the wire speed (which is where the amperage/heat adjustment comes from).Next, those settings would be pretty close to just right.  Some slight adjustment on the wire speed (which is the AMPS) may be done, depending on your skill and preferences and etc, etc.  Slight as in maybe you'd go to 2.5 or 3 or 3.5 on the wire speed.And next, a 135-class welder -can- indead blow through 1/8 inch thick steel angle.  Especially in the open corners of a coped or mitered joint, if there is a gap due to sloppy fitment and you pause in the wrong place for a second or so.  Been there, done that, had to wait for it to cool off and then fill the gap with the amps turned down a little bit.Tack the joint before welding it all up.  Otherwise the heat of the welding if you try to weld it all in one go will spread the other corner open as you go.Six of one and half a dozen of the other strength-wise as to whether you use a coped or miter joint with angle iron.  It's just plain low-carbon angle iron and not a major structural piece after all.  Do a good job with the welding and either joint will be plenty strong.
Reply:Ok, I have started this project, with the settings that Moonrise has recommended (which jives with the chart inside my welder) and I am getting very porous welds. I can actually see bubbles forming and popping in my weld puddle, as well as hear the thing sputtering and popping. I have tried varying my travel speed, and the angle of the welding tip and I changed the feed speed up and down as per Moonrise's advice. What am I doing wrong here? This is a project for a friend at work and I would like it to look a little more professional. I never have this problem welding thicker steel. Attached ImagesLast edited by andreas; 05-25-2007 at 05:20 PM.
Reply:Grind it out and do it again.  You don't need cut it apart, just grind deep and get all the slag out.  Provided all is clean, I think your having difficulty bridging the gap.  Is that one pass.  Get your wire into the corner deeper.  1/8" shouldn't be that difficult to prevent blowing holes.  Play with your controls go with what works not just a chart setting.Last edited by tapwelder; 05-25-2007 at 05:48 PM.
Reply:I just went with my trusty AC225 and some 7018 rods. Ground out the worst of the crappy welds from the flux core and did 'em again with the buzz box. Way better.