Welding in Germany

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So, I am getting ready to fly to Germany and work on a stainless steel sculpture.  I use a Millermatic 135 MIG with solid core stainless wire and 98/2 gas.  I weld on 304 stainless rods.  Do any of you know what machine might be equivalent to this set-up?  Maybe Miller or Lincoln sell their welders there.  Otherwise, I imagine I will just find out what they have and start burning some metal when I get there.  That's really all I can do at this point.  Any help or experiences with this kind of task are appreciated.  Thanks.
Reply:Can't tell you the like things used over there.  But shouldn't be too difficult once you get a bead going.  I was stationed there for years.  Where are you going? Have you been before?Laura MM 180Chop SawDewalt grinderhelpful husband
Reply:I would bet Esab would be around maybe. Some sleek little yellow Euro unit. You know, I wouldn't even know how much to charge for a mobile call to Germany. You get transit time?
Reply:I'll be in Munich and Eging am See.  I have been there two times before, but never to work on anything.
Reply:A mobile call to Germany?!!  I bet it costs a ton.  I use Skype for all international calls.. Cheap and Free if the other person has a computer!
Reply:You can use TMobile over there.  That's where it originated.  Have fun.Laura MM 180Chop SawDewalt grinderhelpful husband
Reply:Originally Posted by HokieEdSo, I am getting ready to fly to Germany and work on a stainless steel sculpture.  I use a Millermatic 135 MIG with solid core stainless wire and 98/2 gas.  I weld on 304 stainless rods.  Do any of you know what machine might be equivalent to this set-up?  Maybe Miller or Lincoln sell their welders there.  Otherwise, I imagine I will just find out what they have and start burning some metal when I get there.  That's really all I can do at this point.  Any help or experiences with this kind of task are appreciated.  Thanks.
Reply:Ed,I have lived in Germany and am familiar with the problems you'll face.The voltage difference (220V @ 50HZ) can be easily handled with transformers, which are readily available.  The bigger issue is the cycles.  I would guess that the MM135 will operate there, but I think you will have to "compensate" in a couple of areas.  The wire feed speed will be slower due to the reduced cycles.  Just crank it up a little to allow for that issue.  The fan will run slower, so your duty cycle will be slightly lower.  Other than those two things, I think most everything else will work OK.  (I would put in a call to Miller Tech Support for their advice though).Good luck.  Hope you enjoy the experience.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:oh, I wasn't planning on bringing a miller 135 over there.  I was hoping to hear about any differences between their machines and ours.  I can't imagine it is much different, but was just curious.  THanks for the replies.
Reply:Yes, we have 230V in Germany, but only with 16A breakers. This usually limits welding current to about 150 - 160 amps, depending on the breaker. For everything more powerfull 3-phase 400V units are the norm. Other than in the U.S. 3 phases are available in almost every house in Germany, as most stoves and all instant water heaters run on 3 phases. That doesn't necessarily mean that there's a free 3-phase/400V receptacle available (usually it's not), but the effort to get one installed is fairly low.Be aware that there are some welders that can run on 230V and 400V, but these units never run on all three phases. So they're a step up from a 230-only, but: if you only have 230V, the 400V option is useless, if you have 400V available why don't go and get a real 3-phase welder?Unfortunately, welders in the 135 amp range are only available in some sort of home improvement stores and these machines should be avoided at any cost. Late models from Einhell , sold under different brand names, are an example. They're a waste of money. Period.Most quality welders from European companies like Merkle, Esab, ESS, Migatronic, Fronius, Lorch, D+L, Cloos, Castolin, Oerlicon, Mahe, Kemppi, Jaeckle, Rehm or EWM - just to name a few - start at higher ratings, usually 150 amps and up. A used welder in decent shape, made by one of these companies, is always a good recommendation and lightyears ahead of any unit from a diy store.Miller and Lincoln can be found in Germany, but they're very rare and the prices are rediculous compared to U.S. prices. Furthermore their guns are not compatible with the European standard (sometimes called Binzel after the company which has set that standard). This is not exactly a problem, but if you need some spare tips for a Binzel compatible gun on a Saturday afternoon, that diy stores will be your friend. With a Miller or Lincoln gun you'll be out of luck.Other than that a welder is a welder, regardless which side of the pond. Oh, fluxcore is not that common in Europe, so don't expect every machine to have a polarity switch.Have a nice time in my country!Steffen
Reply:Thanks Steffen.  Great reply with the perfect information I was looking for.  Germany is a beautiful country, so I look forward to returning.
Reply:Great input Steffen!!!!And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Good to see that this was the right info. Nevertheless I have to add something.There are three well-known manufacturers that you should stay away from: Dalex, Roewac (German spelling: Röwac) and Messer-Griesheim (sometimes short Messer). Don't get me wrong: it's not because of the quality of their products! They made really great welders, but "made" is the keyword. Roewac is out of business since a very long time, Dalex is only making stationary welders now and Messer-Griesheim stopped making welders at all a long time ago. There are still many welders from these manufactures out there, doing their job since decades, just getting replacement parts for the welder itself may be difficult and/or expensive if something goes wrong. Parts for the gun should be easy (Binzel compatible, you know). Therefore I would recommend against those three.Steffen
Reply:more good info, thanks.  I'm not sure what set-up is waiting for me there.  I will be borrowing the equipment as I work on my sculpture.  As long as I can join some 304 stainless rods, I will be all set.  I'm sure MIG is as widely used over there as in the states.  Thanks for the help again and wish me luck in completing the task set before me.  I might have to post some pictures in a new thread.
Reply:Originally Posted by HokieEd... and wish me luck in completing the task set before me.
Reply:Thats a great chart.  They asked me what grade of stainless I was using and I told them 304 and 304L.  They simply called the 304 stainless 18-8.  Is 18-8 stainless just another alloy not on that chart, but still a sub-set of the 304 stainless steels?  and, is their 18-8 stianless just the same as the 18-8 stainless that many o fmy fasteners are made of?
Reply:Yes and yes.18-8 or 18-10 are just common (older) names for 1.4301. You may also hear V2A.Same material used for standard stainless nuts and bolts (marked A2). For higher rust resistance (salt water applications) the fasteners made of higher grade stainless are marked A4. Steffen
Reply:cool, thanks alot
Reply:So, I am in Germany now.. Eging am See... and set up my area at the shops to start welding tomorrow.  The first machine they gave me was a realy huge MIG set-up witha  big wire-feed unit.  THe feed rate of the wire was so slow upon hitting the trigger, that it jus simply would not work for me.  I need the wire to feed instantly for the quick tacks I make.So, I found another machine in the shop that was a smaller, compact MIG unit.  We changed out the wire to SS and gave it a try... MUCH better.  Their gas is a 95/4 with the 4% being Oxygen I think... (language barriers)  Nonetheless, the metal was being sprayed on during my weld... makes for a good clean look, but if I hold it too long, I end up burning the metals through.   I should have it all dialed in tomorrow.