Tips for welding Horizontal?

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I'm wondering if you know any tips or tricks when welding horizontal. I'm starting my horizontal project tomorrow in class, and some others in my class are having some serious problems with it. I already did my flat position and fillet earlier this week, and scored pretty good on them (ill put up pics later). But the horizontal looks a little more challenging.  Im working with stick (6011). What should i set the amp to? Any input would be great, thanks.
Reply:You did not mentioned what type of welding you were doing e.g. MIG, TIG, STICK, but from what I have read and learned with MIG is you want to have a slight upward angle to help hold the puddle.  I forget if you want to run a bit cooler also, not sure on that.  Hope that helped!Build a Barstool Racer at BarFlyRacers.com!
Reply:Originally Posted by KlassikI'm wondering if you know any tips or tricks when welding horizontal. I'm starting my horizontal project tomorrow in class, and some others in my class are having some serious problems with it. I already did my flat position and fillet earlier this week, and scored pretty good on them (ill put up pics later). But the horizontal looks a little more challenging.  Im working with stick (6011). What should i set the amp to? Any input would be great, thanks.
Reply:Ok, stupid me... I missed what type of welding you were doing... Ok, I feel stupid......Build a Barstool Racer at BarFlyRacers.com!
Reply:I can't say for 6011 because I have not used it in years.  Are you using AC or DC?I can say for any rod keep the arc short.  It will help control the puddle.I can't tell you how many amps, but if you think it needs more or less, stop welding and adjust the machine.  Get a feel for it.  DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:This should help.  It's something I drew up a few months ago for another thread.  It's for open roots, but applies to closed butts and can work for horizontal fillets too.With 1/8" 6011 on DC you want to be at about 89 amps on an accurate inverter.  Some non inverter machines run real hot or real cold.  AC is a different story, I rarely if ever use it so don't know how many amps.  Tinker with it to get what feels right.
Reply:Hi KlassikSince your running 6011 I would assume you are running AC though  you can run them on DC-.For horizontal, I drop 5 degrees below horizontal to overcome the slump effect of gravity working on your molten bead. Each stop/ start is tailed out with the cutter grinder so the new electrode can penetrate right through without an inclusion in the rear of the bead.Keep arc length short to aboid unnecessary heat build build up.Add that to what the other fellows said and you should go alright. If you stick the electrode and it heats up ,dice it as you usually dry the (required) moisture content out of the electrode flux.best of luckGrahame
Reply:What thickness material are you working with?I'd rather be hunting........USE ENOUGH HEAT.......Drifting around Aussie welding more pipe up, for something different.....wanting to get home.
Reply:Awesome, thanks alot. Im working with i believe to be about 1" plate of steel, 6"X6".  If im not mistaken I'm running DC, i think i will be able to use 7018 next week, but will see. Ill try and use all these tips, thanks.
Reply:The key thing with horizontal is the pause indicated in the diagram: keep the heat more on the upper side, and let gravity help you. It is amazing the range of heat you can get away with if you are willing to adjust your speed, keep the stick pointed slightly up, and keep more of the heat on the upper part. Just enough into the lower piece to get fusion (you'll see it) and fill on the upper. This has another advantage: You will get nearly all of the undercut on the upper part, and this keeps it filled. Run at about the same as flat to a little bit less. If you turn it down too much, you will have trouble with fusion on the lower side. If you are getting too much burn, speed up a little. 7018 is the same idea, except don't bother with the weave: Run stringers. It will be a little slower than you expect, but you can get a lovely fill with no undercut.
Reply:whip and pause is the key. I use to count 1,2,3 and have a slight pause in between. You can even just go 1,2. Whatever works.
Reply:Originally Posted by KlassikI'm wondering if you know any tips or tricks when welding horizontal. I'm starting my horizontal project tomorrow in class, and some others in my class are having some serious problems with it. I already did my flat position and fillet earlier this week, and scored pretty good on them (ill put up pics later). But the horizontal looks a little more challenging.  Im working with stick (6011). What should i set the amp to? Any input would be great, thanks.
Reply:well ive done a couple of plates in the horizontal position, and i can say its pretty darn tough to get a hang out it. I keep getting a undercut, overlaping the beads is a little rough, and my beads are kinda sloppy here and there. Ill try the pause technique tomorrow in class.
Reply:Try a slight push to or straight in holding a short arc.  It will flatten out the bead for you and ease the undercutting. Also maybe turn the heat down a little and go slower.  The metal follows the heat.  Another method that works for me is move ahead a rods width and stop.  Let the bead catch up to the rod.  Once its there, move again.  still keeping a short arc.Take your camera with you DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:I can't really add much except to listen to the sound, I can't describe it but when you are burning through and getting the penetration the sound is different, I always pay attention to that because if it changes you know you are not getting the penetration.
Reply:How about some pics of some nice uphill weldsI wasn't Born, I was Fabricatedhttp://TitanFabrication.com