What to TIG filler for cast aluminum???

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I am going to be doing some work to my 351 ci. yates manifold, and to the timing chain cover.  I was wondering what is the best for tig, also tungsten, and gas, I have welded aluminum before but never cast, so thought I would ask before attempting, and what about migging it to, I was looking at getting a mig gun for my lincoln, any ideas, and suggestions would be appreciated.  Andrew   Hobart Handler 135 MIGLincoln Idealarc 255 MIGLincoln Precision Tig 225Lincoln "BUZZ BOX" Stick welderMiller 252 MIgHobart 350 DC stick welderMiller Bobcat 11,000-GEN/Stick WelderThermal Dynamics 55AMP Plasma Cutter
Reply:you're gonna get many different opinions on this one regarding tungsten and fillerpure argon for the gas (argon/helium mixs will work too but un-necessary if the machine is powerful enough)personally i would use a zirconiated tungsten for thiscast aluminium can weld quite nicely or be a PITA depending on quality, age and whether it's been soaked in oil for years. i would expect the manifold to weld quite nicely (i've modified/repaired several edelbrocks- they all welded pretty cleanly), timing chain cover might take a few attempts (the welding heat can pull all the contaminates out of the Al. stop, grind it clean and try again)cast Al can be various alloys but many are silicon based (silicon helps with the casting process) so 4043 would be a good bet if the alloy is unknowna gentle preheat (don't cook it, just get it warm) will help as will a slow cool. if i suspect a castings gone porous/is contaminated i'll make an initial run with just the torch (not welding, just getting the joint good and hot) to see if any crap gets pulled out. remove any contaminates with a cutting burr in a die grinder and you should be good to go- very dirty castings (old oil pans etc) sometimes take a few attempts
Reply:I have done a couple, as stated some weld great some not so great. I did however with one of them that was giving me trouble degrease, hose off with brake cleaner, then baked it in the oven 450 or 500. You would be surprised how much more oil came out. I think I let it cool a bit and then hit it with brake cleaner or acetone where I was welding it and it came out good. *Caution you aren't gonna wanna put it in a oven inside your house, it will give off some fumes...Miller Dynasty 200 DX(love it!, well I did, now its a paperweight)Miller fixed it, haven't used it much yet $2900 warranty Miller 210 Thermal Arc UltraFlex 350Cobra Push-Pull Wire feedLots of other things
Reply:4043 is for billett material..5356 is for castings...I have done millions of repairs on each type material..And thats what you use..Tungestion..Red End 3/32"Straight argon will work but I have a gas mixer and run it @38% argon.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapster4043 is for billett material..5356 is for castings...I have done millions of repairs on each type material..And thats what you use..Tungestion..Red End 3/32"Straight argon will work but I have a gas mixer and run it @38% argon.....zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by zapster4043 is for billett material..5356 is for castings...I have done millions of repairs on each type material..And thats what you use..Tungestion..Red End 3/32"Straight argon will work but I have a gas mixer and run it @38% argon.....zap!
Reply:Whatever...I've only been doing this for 30 yrs..If you don't want my opinion don't ask for it then.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterWhatever...I've only been doing this for 30 yrs..If you don't want my opinion don't ask for it then.. ...zap!
Reply:I look at it this way..When I did defence work the prints specified what alloy for each job..Every Billett job was with 4043 (unless it was being sent out for annodizing then 5356 was spec)If you were welding a cast piece to a billett piece then 5356 was spec..Every casting job spec. 5356..This is all Military specs..I have repaired many many blown to bits cylinder heads all with 5356..No failures yet..Use what you want..But if it came to ME for fixing then thats what I would use..J.M.H.O....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterWhatever...I've only been doing this for 30 yrs..If you don't want my opinion don't ask for it then.. ...zap!
Reply:Read my LAST post..Thats where my info comes from.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:i already have. because i was told to is not a reasoned argument in my view. the people that wrote those specs have far more experience and (more importantly) knowledge than either of us. unfortunatly without knowing the alloys and service environments of those weldments the info doesn't mean much
Reply:Fine and Dandy then..You do it your way..I'll do it mine.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.