Wetting your Rod

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I did a search but maybe I didn't get the right keywords. In welding class last night the instructor made a remark about how he in the old days would under certain circumstances wet the electrode (E60XX series) to acheive some desired result. Anyone experience this practice or have knowledge of it?
Reply:I tend to think that if something was done in the old days, but not done anymore is because it either didn't work or was superceeded by a better process.
Reply:Yeh and I was the guy they would shag for the "sky hook" to tie off to.
Reply:Yes, if you'd like to use 6010 to cut material with, soak it in water for half hour or so and then crank the amps and it will sever material quite well, just a bit messy. Works will for things like trimming expanded metal when you have 120' to do and you don't want any sharp edges to come back and round over.Owner of Bushwacker Mobile WeldingPictures
Reply:I belive Coalsmoke is correct, I've read about purposely wetting 6010/6011 for cutting.  Somehow the moisture content of the rod affect the forcefulness or concentration of the arc, so it's possible that a welder may see a difference in arc characteristics just because the rod is new and dry, or older and damp.  Trying to find more info on this subject.
Reply:The following is taken from this ESAB link discussing the various components of stick electrode coatings and the role of moisture in cellulose coatings(6010/6011).http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/AWTC/Lesson3_8.htmGas Formers - Common gas forming materials used are the carbohydrates, hydrates, and carbonates.  Examples would be cellulose (such as wood flock), the carbonates of calcium and magnesium, and chemically combined water as is found in clay and mica. These materials evolve carbon dioxide (CO2), carbon monoxide (CO), and water vapor (H2O) at the high temperature of the welding arc.  Free moisture is another gas-forming ingredient that is found particularly in cellulosic type electrodes and is a part of the formulation in amounts of 2%-3%.  It has a marked influence on the arc and is a necessary ingredient in the E6010 type electrode.The chart in Figure 2 shows typical coating constituents and their functions for two types of mild steel electrodes.  Note that the moisture content in the cellulosic E6010 is much higher than in the low hydrogen E7018 type.  The moisture in the E6010 coating is necessary to produce the driving arc characteristic and is not harmful when welding the lower strength steels.  Hydrogen can cause problems when welding the higher strength steels and will be discussed in detail in Lesson IV.
Reply:Yes I have wet 6010 and 7010 rods,  a quick 'dip' in a bucket or a damp towel over the end of a open can of rods overnight can be very helpful.   By the look of it though I must be a h3ll of a lot older than I look or something.   Try the stoving rods out in a hot dry climate, then tell me what you think of these old guy's.   Also been known to run into the odd idoit storeman that puts every rod he can find into a hotbox, including the **10 rods.I'd rather be hunting........USE ENOUGH HEAT.......Drifting around Aussie welding more pipe up, for something different.....wanting to get home.
Reply:Ha! I read the title on this one and thought...Microzone will be wiping all the fun out of this thread any minute now...And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Thanks everyone there seems to be some magic to the art form as well very very interesting again thanks in advance keep it coming if there is any more maybe some real life experience.
Reply:Yes, you can dip a 6010 rod in water (not soak), and go to run it, and in many cases, it will have a smoother, more controllable arc.  Should you ever do it for a weld?  No.  Can you soak a 6010 in water for a while, jack the amps up, and cut material with it?  You bet you can.
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloHa! I read the title on this one and thought...Microzone will be wiping all the fun out of this thread any minute now...
Reply:OK, Lo-Hy rods need to be dry, dry, dry, PERIOD. Celulose, and rutile rods need some moisture to make them run right. It is not "right" to wet a rod before using it. If a 6010/6011/6013 is to dry it runs like $hit. A quick dip, or wiping with a damp rag brings it back to an ok operating rod. Would I use a wetted rod on a code job?, hell no. If all you have is a box of dried out 6010 and need to fix the tractor, by all means give em' some moisture.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:And yes, I have soaked a 6010/6011 and cranked the machine all the way up to cut.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingIt is not "right" to wet a rod before using it. If a 6010/6011/6013 is to dry it runs like $hit. A quick dip, or wiping with a damp rag brings it back to an ok operating rod. Would I use a wetted rod on a code job?, hell no.
Reply:SHHHHHHH, I have to sound profesionalDisclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:I am glad I read this thread. I am not a welder by trade, but eveywhere I have ever worked the 6010's, 6011's and 6013's were right there in the rod oven with all the other electrodes. Even though there were experienced welders where I worked that were boiler certified, I never heard anyone ever say the 6010 needed a little moisture to run well - I don't think any of them knew as they always reached in the rod oven when they needed a rod, regardless of what kind of rod they needed.I think I learn something every time I look at a message board.
Reply:Originally Posted by 6010I don't think any of them knew as they always reached in the rod oven when they needed a rod, regardless of what kind of rod they needed.
Reply:Cooking 6010 is a real good way to mess it up.Owner of Bushwacker Mobile WeldingPictures
Reply:Originally Posted by 6010I am glad I read this thread. I am not a welder by trade, but eveywhere I have ever worked the 6010's, 6011's and 6013's were right there in the rod oven with all the other electrodes. Even though there were experienced welders where I worked that were boiler certified, I never heard anyone ever say the 6010 needed a little moisture to run well - I don't think any of them knew as they always reached in the rod oven when they needed a rod, regardless of what kind of rod they needed.
Reply:This thread is why I love this site, good info.
Reply:Originally Posted by WelderBoy7018?  I don't touch it unless it's too hot to touch.
Reply:Many years ago Lincolns 5 electrode (not 5P) had asbestos in the coating and would not weld good unless some moisture was in the flux and I know of welders on a pipe line that had a bucket of water next to them at all time, when welding the root and hot pass with Lincoln 5.  John
Reply:Once when I was a new apprentice we had to go to one of the quarries that was about 15-20 miles out of town. The tradesman told me to get the truck ready and off we went. When he went to use the oxy/acet. he found the bloody apprentice had forgot the gas key. So after giving me a bollocking he told me to open a packet of rods and put a few in a puddle and when I looked stupid he bellowed "in the f#$%ing puddle" so I did. He then cranked up the power and that was the first time I saw steel cut with a welding rod. Good lesson, it's stayed with me for over 40 years. Clive
Reply:Thanks for all the responses to date. I have a Phoenix rod oven and happy to report no 60 series rod in it just 7018. A group discussion about this took place and it seems that here in the Northwest 60 series works good outdoors where you have the "coastal mist", everywhere else it's rain. I like the Esab line of 60 series electrodes.
Reply:All of ESAB rods are Atom ARC or alloy rods co.,  they bough them out.SMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :also with 6010 ive heard if your using mid-high heat and is producing lots of spatter you can dip it in water and its supposed to cut down the spatter amount.so ive heard.6G zirconium 702 GTAW 2" xxheavy6G P.E.D. carbon steel GTAW 2" xxheavy3G titanium Gr. 2 - Gr. 7 GTAW up to 3/4" 3G 316L stainless GTAW up to 1" 3G carbon steel GTAW up to 1" 3G Hastalloy GTAW up to 3/4"1G tantalum GTAW up to .060"
Reply:Wetting your 6010 on a code job will get ya run off mucho fast. No need to wet them for cutting. Reverse polarity and crank it up and it will blow it out almost as well as an arcair, just a little messier. Used to do it all the time on cast iron parts on pumping units in the field with no compressor handy. Lincoln Electric says to store the fast freeze rods, 6010/6011 at 100 - 120 degrees to minimize moisture effects and not to try and redry them. On all of the code jobs I have worked the 6010 was stored at approx 110 degrees and could not be out of the oven more than two hours. On some jobs we had to carry all rods in portable ovens.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.