Mig wire speed question

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I was shown  how to mig about 2 years ago, and i did a lot of it for a few months at a job.  I just recently bought my own mig welder (clarke 180) and cant seem to get the wire speed correct.  I am using 1/8 scrap steel to practice on.  The problem i am having is sometimes the wire hits the piece and it burns about a 1" long section almost back up into the gun.  Other times it works perfect.  The wire speed stays the same, and the power stays the same.  What would cause this?  Could it be error on my positioning? Or is the wire speed to slow?
Reply:Can you send some pictures of the problem. But just some tips that I can through off the top of my head. Check the polarity on the welders leads. And make sure its right for the type of wire your useing. If that dosent work try useing this video on this page. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/wire-speed.htm Hope I could helpDo you fly the American flag?Then Drive a American car!
Reply:It sounds like you don't have a good ground. Make sure your work clamp (ground) is touching the metal, not on top of paint, rust or dirt/grease. Also make sure it's touching the weldment, not the table, clamped to the table, etc.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:You didn't even tell us what process you were running.  FCAW or GMAW?  What size wire and tips?  What polarity?
Reply:Just a guess here, but if you turn the wire speed down a little, it should be fine.  If its too fast, the wire hits the plate and POOF burns off in one piece instead of a bunch of little shorts.  Its  called stubbing. Too fast of wire speed, stubbing, popping and a crappy tall narrow ropy bead.  Too slow wire speed and the wire burns off before it makes a good contact with the plate.  This will make a flat wide bead.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RJust a guess here, but if you turn the wire speed down a little, it should be fine.  If its too fast, the wire hits the plate and POOF burns off in one piece instead of a bunch of little shorts.  Its  called stubbing. Too fast of wire speed, stubbing, popping and a crappy tall narrow ropy bead.  Too slow wire speed and the wire burns off before it makes a good contact with the plate.  This will make a flat wide bead.David
Reply:Originally Posted by MAC702You didn't even tell us what process you were running.  FCAW or GMAW?  What size wire and tips?  What polarity?
Reply:Originally Posted by Cheap5.0sometimes the wire hits the piece and it burns about a 1" long section almost back up into the gun.
Reply:Originally Posted by TSORYour holding the gun to far from the work. No more than 1/2" away, you'll have better results.
Reply:I guess that part goes with more time in it....thanks for the help everyone.  I ran some beads earlier and i did not have anything odd.  I just need more practice i guess.
Reply:I broke something today, i don't know how i did it....but i did.I somehow welded the spring like thing inside of the tip of the gun to the piece i was working on today.  It then shot out and remains welded to the piece.On the up side, i was doing pretty good welding 2" (1/4" thick) square tubing into 90 degree joints before this happened.  Anyone have any idea what i need to buy to fix this?
Reply:Originally Posted by Cheap5.0...the spring like thing inside of the tip of the gun ...
Reply:Originally Posted by Cheap5.0I broke something today, i don't know how i did it....but i did.I somehow welded the spring like thing inside of the tip of the gun to the piece i was working on today.  It then shot out and remains welded to the piece.On the up side, i was doing pretty good welding 2" (1/4" thick) square tubing into 90 degree joints before this happened.  Anyone have any idea what i need to buy to fix this?
Reply:I somehow welded the spring like thing inside of the tip of the gun to the piece i was working on today. It then shot out and remains welded to the piece.
Reply:Originally Posted by Sandy We may a new one for the list of "things that can happen"...  Sounds like your machine upchucked its liner.
Reply:Is it the 180EN???This spring thing, was it long with a curve in the middle?? I found this. Page 4 for the list and page 5 for the pic. http://www.clarkeusa.com/manuals/we/WE6524.pdfIt came from here. http://www.clarkeusa.com/manuals/we/
Reply:Yes, his is the 180 EN. 5.0 - post a pic of the carnage.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Wow,It sounds like you were running the gun without a contact tip or diffuser, which would explain the crazy wire action.  I think that the neck liner (part #5) is held in by the diffuser.  Check out this parts diagram to make sure that you are using the torch with all of the parts in place (Liner, Diffuser, Contact tip):http://www.clarkeusa.com/manuals/we/WE6524.pdfIf you need to replace parts, don't call Clarke, they are reasonable on the part price, but will kill you with shipping and handling.  Try weldingdepot.com (no affiliation).  I bought consumables for my 180EN from them, as well as Tweco parts.Keep us posted,cricman
Reply:Originally Posted by cricmanWow,It sounds like you were running the gun without a contact tip or diffuser, which would explain the crazy wire action.  I think that the neck liner (part #5) is held in by the diffuser.  Check out this parts diagram to make sure that you are using the torch with all of the parts in place (Liner, Diffuser, Contact tip):http://www.clarkeusa.com/manuals/we/WE6524.pdfIf you need to replace parts, don't call Clarke, they are reasonable on the part price, but will kill you with shipping and handling.  Try weldingdepot.com (no affiliation).  I bought consumables for my 180EN from them, as well as Tweco parts.Keep us posted,cricman
Reply:So I'm guessing the whole diffuser/nozzle/tip assembly came loose from the torch (?) and, not noticing their absence, you kept welding untill the wire pushed the liner out (?).MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:am doing GMAW, using .30 wire, and i am uncertain on the tip size. Polarity is set up for gas shielding, and not self shielded.  What are the correct polarities for these kinds of welding?
Reply:Typical gas-shielded is DCRP, or DCEP.Typical self-shielded is DCSP, or DCEN.
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33So I'm guessing the whole diffuser/nozzle/tip assembly came loose from the torch (?) and, not noticing their absence, you kept welding untill the wire pushed the liner out (?).
Reply:Alright, so i have finally found some time to get back to my project (that required some welding).  I had my friend that has been fabricating for over 25 years come over to do the majority of the welding as a safety issue (i am relocating suspension mounts on axle tubes...not something i trust myself doing yet).  He started welding using my rig, and shorty after he started it burned back up into the gun and stuck to the neck liner (like before, the reason i started this thread).  We ended up burning through that neck liner, and some of a new one before the project was done.  What is causing this?  He fiddled with every adjustment on there, and it did get much better...but it still did it from time to time.
Reply:That's how Clarke can sell their machines so cheaply.What they don't make on the original sale, they make up for in replacement parts.Never heard of this type problem with a Miller, Lincoln, or Hobart.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.Originally Posted by SundownIIIThat's how Clarke can sell their machines so cheaply.What they don't make on the original sale, they make up for in replacement parts.Never heard of this type problem with a Miller, Lincoln, or Hobart.
Reply:On a normal gun there is the fine braided copper cladding much like the braid on a coax that originates at the gun connection point on the machine and surrounds the hole liner all the way to the gun where it then meets with all the metallic pieces and finally the tip. This braided copper jacket is the current carrying conductor. Yes the liner (and wire) makes coincidental contact at some points along the way but carries very little current because the copper jacket is the better and preferred path.   On yours it sounds almost like that braided copper jacket is open or frayed or not connected anymore and your liner has become the only or preferred current path to complete the loop.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyOn a normal gun there is the fine braided copper cladding much like the braid on a coax that originates at the gun connection point on the machine and surrounds the hole liner all the way to the gun where it then meets with all the metallic pieces and finally the tip. This braided copper jacket is the current carrying conductor. Yes the liner (and wire) makes coincidental contact at some points along the way but carries very little current because the copper jacket is the better and preferred path.   On yours it sounds almost like that braided copper jacket is open or frayed or not connected anymore and your liner has become the only or preferred current path to complete the loop.
Reply:What I do see in the gun assembly section is a un-numbered, un-described wire with a loop connector on each end. To me that would be the current carrying sucker. What I also see that I think needs investigation are items #4-torch neck coupled with item #6-torch neck insulator   ...
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyWhat I do see in the gun assembly section is a un-numbered, un-described wire with a loop connector on each end. To me that would be the current carrying sucker. What I also see that I think needs investigation are items #4-torch neck coupled with item #6-torch neck insulator   ...
Reply:I just looked closer at the schematic, and i noticed the above insulator is for the exterior of the neck.  Its a rubber piece.I think this is just how they are...
Reply:Originally Posted by Cheap5.0I just looked closer at the schematic, and i noticed the above insulator is for the exterior of the neck.  Its a rubber piece.I think this is just how they are...
Reply:Originally Posted by Cheap5.0I was shown  how to mig about 2 years ago, and i did a lot of it for a few months at a job.  I just recently bought my own mig welder (clarke 180) and cant seem to get the wire speed correct.  I am using 1/8 scrap steel to practice on.  The problem i am having is sometimes the wire hits the piece and it burns about a 1" long section almost back up into the gun.  Other times it works perfect.  The wire speed stays the same, and the power stays the same.  What would cause this?  Could it be error on my positioning? Or is the wire speed to slow?
Reply:Originally Posted by weldgaultThis is a comon problem.  You must clip your wire off at an angle, for the current to flow very easly.  If a ball in on the wire the current does not want to flow and will back up and burn off    back at the tip.  (ALWAYS)   John  "A Little Extra"