Aluminum question... ZAP?

admin

okay, so i hear that it's a true test of a professional welder's abilities to be able to weld a bee... err... pop... yea that's it... a POP can together... i know this is a PITA to do... i tried it over a lunch break with a Miller ArcMaster at work the other day... by the way, Mountain Dew smells like a moldy Sphincter when it gets to about 3000 degrees. hehehehehe . anyway, how is this amazing feat accomplished? from what i've noticed, the heat has to be either way down (lower than is able to be achieved with this machine) or the welder needs to have a travel speed of close to 20 MPH. any hints? gas type and settings? tungten type? amperage? ANYTHING!!!! i love a challenge, and i know that this is a huge accomplishment for ANY welder, but how is it done? i am thinking about challenging anther engineer in the office to a little friendly competition and think that if i can weld a pop can, i can probably weld just about anything. he's always talking crap about me trying to learn how to weld... "it has nothing to do with your job description, so why waste your lunch break trying to learn?" is a famous line that led to a semi-heated debate.anyway, any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks!Later,Andy
Reply:Acid, then weldDewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools
Reply:With the old transformer machines it did take some skill and knowledge to do, they required some skill on the bottom end of the dial. BUT, with inverter technology, a rookie can do it just by understanding the features of his machine. It's no longer an extremely difficult task, therefore it's no big deal.Anything worth doing is worth doing RIGHT
Reply:Originally Posted by littlefuzzAcid, then weld
Reply:cool... thanks guys. just curious. i am anxious to get out to the shop today and try it again... i was using a pretty big tungsten before... i think they are 3/16... but i'm not sure. also, pointed or balled? obviously they have to be free of all contamination too... what about gas? is there any particular mix that is better for thin aluminum? i know the amps have to be next to zero for the puddle to not burn thru the can, and i know it varies from machine to machine, but does anyone have a good starting point?thanks again!Later,Andy
Reply:well i am no pro like some of the guys in here, but its not too hard if you just take your time.i have a bunch done.there are some tricks to help you.first bottom to bottom is the easiest.and the alum is the thickest1... clean can before opening it. the full can allows you to apply pressure without crushing the can. i wire brush the base then use polishing compound to clean it up. then acetone the metal.2...open it and have a drink.3...clean it again with acetone4...set welder to ac and about 20 amps( this is on my syncrowave)5...use some .030 alum spool wire,cut off some in small lengths6...smallest tungsten you have,i have used .020 up to 1/167...start the arc on the FILLER first. this will keep the first spark fromburning though the can. then just softly control the puddle with the pedal.i have a small jumper wire with alligator clips attached to the can for a better ground.once you have gotten that down to a art.then cut the bottom off and make a tall one piece can welded on the sides where the metal is the thinest...hope it helps
Reply:Old School!!! With an SA200 (K6090) gas drive, I used a 1/8" DC carbon on DCEN (streight) and the machine on min. and created a blue arc and welded a can lid back on the can using a 1/16" filler.  It could be done this crude way, 30 years ago, I know it can be done now.  John G.SMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:i wouldn't ask Zap! about cans, he kinda specializes in cast AL parts, like boats.
Reply:Crank the amps way way down and get ready to move fast, If it were me on a machine that can't go down to around a few amps I would swipe over the filler that I placed in the spot to be welded. Kind of a brushing motion. You might getter better results with a thick dull electrode that would allow you to dissipate the current over a slightly larger area and reduce burn through, hope it helps, it's more of a trial and error than a straight shoot.
Reply:Originally Posted by MA S.P.i wouldn't ask Zap! about cans, he kinda specializes in cast AL parts, like boats.
Reply:yea.. that's what i figured. i have a feeling that there will be much more error than trial with limited to zero experience with this. i think that after a month or two of lunch breaks and a few hours a week at welding class, i shoudl be able to get it down... but like you guys are saying... it'll just take time and practice. the hardest thing i am finding out so far is that the Miller ArcMaster at work is just too hot. i hope the ones at school are a little more moderna nd a little easier to adjust.Later,Andy
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloWell, you see some really weird $hit when you weld on acid, so I will have to say maybe don't try that!!! But I agree, clean the can very well, and take a small SS brush, and scrub off the clearcoat, oxide, whatever it is on the cans. And then I use a tiny tungsten. .040, and for filler, 1/16" rod. 4043.
Reply:Sorry to nit pick but the electric arc gets to and well above 6 thousand degrees, Oxy/ acetylene is 3100c. TIG is the hottest because the same amount of current is going through in a smaller more concentrated area and it has no consumable to burn off in the arc.
Reply:Originally Posted by matSorry to nit pick but the electric arc gets to and well above 6 thousand degrees, Oxy/ acetylene is 3100c. TIG is the hottest because the same amount of current is going through in a smaller more concentrated area and it has no consumable to burn off in the arc.
Reply:Tungsten melts at 6170 (if my math is right).  I know someone's gonna check me.DewayneDixieland WeldingMM350PLincoln 100Some torchesOther misc. tools