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I knew at some point I would get into pipe welding. Just maybe a little sooner than I thought I would. I think I found some pipe welding work if I can get my certs. I had a buddy give me some 8" sch 80 pipe to practice on. So I took the 40" long pipe and made up ten 4" rings. Lucky me my rockwell bandsaw cut it all up in about 40 minutes. The bandsaw sure beats a portband or a torch for cutting pipe like you would out in the field. Got the big 9" grinder out a put the bevel on all the pieces. That only took to 4 hours . Fitted the first piece with a 3/32" gap. Got out some 1/8" 6010 and BEAT MY HEAD AGAINST THE WALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!. I forgot how to weld with 6010. Took me a while to put a good root in. Lots of cussing involved . Did my hot pass with 1/8" 7018. Then two fill passes, one to each side of the bevel. Then a cap. The real pipeliners I have watched make pipewelding look to easy. One down 10 more practice welds to go. Please feel free to look at my crappy work. I did practice by welding it from the 5 to 1 postion then rotating the pipe. I will be trying G5 postion later this week. Attached ImagesLincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749How 'bout some pics of the root? :
Reply:I'm with 7A749. An even fit up is key. The gap and land tend to vary a little bit from person to person, depending on personal preference and how your machine runs. My best roots were done by keeping a fairly tight gap, a land on the thicker side, running a little hotter, and sticking the rod in and moving up with no weave/back&forth/ect. When I had it right, the weld went in easy and it looked like it was welded inside out. I never did it in the field either, and really don't stick weld too much, so I'm sure talking to some old hand could provide some more insight. -Joshbrowndogwelding.com@welderassassinMy Blog on The Fabricatorfacebook.com/BrownDogWelding
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Nobody gets that If you have access to a lathe, it's the bomb for cutting bevels without a torch beveler.:
Reply:If you can get a hold of a Mathey dearman or H&M pipe beveler it would save all the grinding time. plus you can bevel both ends and have more practice nipples. But this way, you get experience and have to weld the fit up. Input: put in longer tacks 4 of them about 1.5" long then feather them back which you end up with 1" tacks, try running stringers for cap, use 6010 for hot pass.I just got my 6G cert (Personal cert), I have taken the 6G pipe test for employment and passed. Once you get the hang of it, you never forget it. practice, practice, practice.Salas Repair General Welding & Fabrication
Reply:With a sharp bevel, you want those coupons just about touching. Turn your machine up enough to burn that 1/8 6010 in -keep the rod at approx. perpendicular to the pipe. You ll hear a distinct crackling on the inside of the pipe (eggs frying to some people). If your keyhole gets too hot and falls about turn your heat down. If not hot enough you wont get the distinct crackling sound. A good root pass is a combination of gap, heat, travel speed and rod angle (ive probably forgot a few). Grind starts and stops with a "ramp" about 1/2''. When you start again, start on the low point and when you get near the sharp point on the root itll burn in and youll get your continuous root pass. After grinding out the root to a clean finish, use 3/32" 7018 for fill and cap.
Reply:I know that when I was getting ready to weld, a book I read said that it would take a couple hours practice to get passable welds with a 110 mig machine, so I knew what my investment was going to be... I admire your gumption and ambition for taking on pipe welding... keep it up and keep posting the pictures so those of us following in your footsteps can get some encouragement (and maybe avoid some of your mistakes )Hobart 125Words mean things
Reply:Everbody does it different but after you learn it will be your preference.You have a bandsaw but I have had to cut my coupons with a torch. Then set your large hand grinder on top and grind till you get it pretty close to perfect. Then stand your coupons on end and cut the bevel from the end out then its easy clean up. I usually always put in a new large lense in my helmet and lay one of them on top of the pipe and put the other coupon on top. That gives me the gap I need. Line them up and tack them. Dont worry about chipping out the lense it will disappear. When you get that done the bevel on both pieces shouldnt be much more than 3/8 to 7/16 inch wide. No need to make but one root pass and one hot pass one fillet and then your weld should be just slightly lower than the base metal . Start in and cap. I like lo hy for fillet and cap. When you get done your weld should be a dime wide and a nickel high. Have fun. Harold |
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