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Hey guys!Putting up some pictures of my little project.Its going to be a fuel tank for a Locost build (you know one of them home made Lotus race cars).Once I got the measurements I designed a tank in Solid Edge.This is what I came up with:Sent the drawing off to have the parts cut in a waterjet. A week later I have this:All parts are 2mm aluminium.Bent the sides with my cheap *** metal break and tack-welded them. This is how it looks with the anti slosh bulkheads in it.The guy that Im building the tank for took it home to make sure that it fitted in his chassis. It didnt. The tank was a little to thick. Redid the design and made it about 6mm thinner. Made new drawings and got the new parts yesterday.This is where I am at the moment. Heading to the Scania engine laboratory tommorow to torture some truck engines, but when I get home Ill start grinding out the tack-welds.Let me know what you thinkBest regards Erik
Reply:I think it will be just fine..Good thing for the test fit..Just think of the fun if it was fully done..Post as we go.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Pretty cool looking Tank ! Mind if I ask what the approximate cost is of getting those parts sent out for Cutting ? Do they supply the material ?Cheers,/Jman....
Reply:Originally Posted by jmanPretty cool looking Tank ! Mind if I ask what the approximate cost is of getting those parts sent out for Cutting ? Do they supply the material ?Cheers,/Jman....
Reply:Looks good Erik and a great little project you've got there! I like the baffle design a lot!I'm coming to visit next time I'm in Sweden www.lindgrensupercars.comMiller Dynasty 350Miller Dynasty 200DX - retiredMiller Millermatic 210Miller Spectrum 3080Miller "Power of Blue" stool Miller Syncrowave 180SD - retired
Reply:Why bother grinding out the tack welds? Unless you do it with a carbide cutter of some sort your just going to drive grit into the seams and give yourself more cause for leaks. Just weld through them, no issues there.I wish I got to work with waterjet parts... Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border88Why bother grinding out the tack welds? Unless you do it with a carbide cutter of some sort your just going to drive grit into the seams and give yourself more cause for leaks. Just weld through them, no issues there.I wish I got to work with waterjet parts...
Reply:Originally Posted by kjlindgrLooks good Erik and a great little project you've got there! I like the baffle design a lot!I'm coming to visit next time I'm in Sweden
Reply:Getting the lid in position.Tack welded the sides firstAnd then the rest.Tacking the main baffles. In this joint configuration it felt really hard to get a puddle in the root. When I tried adding filler. For the most part the arc jumped between the two parts and I got two puddles istead. But after a while I got them welded together.Almost done Thats all for tonight! // Erik
Reply:Lookin' real good!!Miller 252Miller 250Miller Syncrowave 250Esab Plasma Powercut 1250HF Basic oxy/act torches
Reply:Nice work Eric.;drinkup:Will you be 'plug' welding the two baffles from the outside to the last panel at the six (total) contact points?MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:I was going to ask, why did you weld the top on? Now you have no way of welding the other side of the baffles. The baffles will have not strength with it.
Reply:He only has the sump tacked in looks like a big enough access point. Just my observation.LA
Reply:What thickness is the AL material?Adam MMorales Ranch
Reply:...Well...looks nice to me so far.....only way to go on the 'grinding'...the 1/4" carbide burrs....or any size carbide, with 1/4" shank.......thereare some with larger teeth especially for Aluminum...don't load up so quick...yes, keep the oily air away....and I always use the Stainless 'toothbrush' just before the welding....usually end up with nice clean shiny beads...no black/gray soot... Here in Sacramento...the waterjet guys get $250 an hour....one hour minumum...I'd look at maybe plasma or laser for aluminum.....laser is very clean cutting....waterjet I'd go to for cutting very hard tool steel/carbide...or non-metallic stuff.... Woodcutting bandsaws are usually pretty good for cutting aluminum....especially the size you're talking...2mm, (3/32")....I've used the bandsaw for aluminum stuff from just .020".....up to 3"....that's 3" thick.....heavy plate...if you will....then lots of torch pre-heating and MIG....Dougspair
Reply:...After looking some more at your pics...a suggestion....make the welded tabs on the bulkheads longer, then bend them to a 90....easy to make lap welds in there instead of fillets...Dougspair |
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发表于 2021-9-1 00:04:41