What causes this?

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Welding on DOM tubing and have some perfect beads going and all of a sudden I get what looks like a sparkler effect and then the beads go all to crap and they look like little volvanos.  They kinda bubble from inside and leave a hole in the beads.  If I go back over them it just keeps doing it.  Finally ground it all out and then the bead goes perfect.  I can move to another location/joint area when it is happening and get great results.  So what causes this.  I cleaned all the metal and wiped it all down with acetone before starting....same as with the other joints.  Is is a lack of gas flow and torch angle?  My tungst. gets ugly looking as well when it happens like the sparkler effect is depositing on the tungs.  I increased the airflow gas flow but it doesn't seem to help.  Could it be something in the filler rods- like I have a poor batch of them with contamination in certain areas and once I get past it it works ok?  Really makes me mad when this is happening.  Last night what should have taken about 1 hour took me nearly 2.5 due to having to stop, regrind tungs. and get set again.  Thanks for the help.Best Times with 434 Naturally Aspirated Vette60 - 1.261/8 -  6.37@ 107.25 MPH 1/4 - 10.08 & 134.9MPH1/4 - 9.60@144MPH
Reply:If your torch angle is off or CFH is set too high, it will do that.  Same goes for the filler metal if it is pulled out of the shielding gas during welding.When it happens, are you welding on tubing that is being capped off on both ends?  When finishing a weld bead on the tubing, you will get a blowout due to trapped gases inside the tube trying to make their way out.  A small hole needs to be drilled in the tube for relief.
Reply:Did you wipe out the INSIDE of the finished end before tigging? Also did you wipe off your wire filler as well? Contamination in the mill scale will also cause that.Also, make sure when ending a portion of the tube, a small hole is drilled for relief. It will keep pushing the air inside of the tube out (escaping). Once done with the joint, fill the hole with a dab.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:I have the flow set to around 15 and tried it up at 20 and it did not seem to make a difference.  I suspect its dirt, but holy cow the stuff seemed to be really cleaned well.  Do they make any type of spray on cleaner that works well. On a seperate, but somewhat related topic due to the time it takes to resharpen etc......what is this chemsharp I see on the sights?  Do you think a gas lense would be better for me also?  Right now i am just using the weldcraft 17 that was supplied with the unit and have a few other nozzles.  What parts will I need to replace to use a gas lense for the model 17?  Much thanks fellas - I will try to post some photos of the work.Best Times with 434 Naturally Aspirated Vette60 - 1.261/8 -  6.37@ 107.25 MPH 1/4 - 10.08 & 134.9MPH1/4 - 9.60@144MPH
Reply:your puling crap throught he backside, it only happens sometimes because when that happens you get hot enought to melt all the way through.  You can move and it will work  because your starting cold again.Try cleaning the inside or welding it colder.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:This can be caused also by bad argon. Happens when LWS does not vaccuum the cylinder, before filling.   A very common occurance.   JohnSMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border88your puling crap throught he backside, it only happens sometimes because when that happens you get hot enought to melt all the way through.  You can move and it will work  because your starting cold again.Try cleaning the inside or welding it colder.
Reply:Turn your gas down! 10 to 15 max! I was having the same problem when I started. The cleaner I used in the states was cheap carb cleaner from Wal-Mart I gave $.88 a can for it and it i great. It will strip paint so becareful. I cant get cheap anything here so now I use laquer thiner because it is the cheapest thing by tha galon at HD. Steel Thunder Welding LLC. St. Thomas VI USAMM350PBOBCAT 3MAXSTAR 150 STH375 EXTREME PLASMA6.5 HP COMPRESORDEWALT 18, 24, AND 36 VOLTO/A TORCH SETAND SO MUCH MORE I DONT REMEMBERALL IN MY 2005 2500HD EXTENDED CAB L/B
Reply:Originally Posted by offrdfun73Turn your gas down! 10 to 15 max! I was having the same problem when I started. The cleaner I used in the states was cheap carb cleaner from Wal-Mart I gave $.88 a can for it and it i great. It will strip paint so becareful. I cant get cheap anything here so now I use laquer thiner because it is the cheapest thing by tha galon at HD.
Reply:the tubing wasn't cut with a plasma was it?  I notice the same effect on either MIG or TIG from the crud left behind from a plasma.
Reply:Any kind of Oils..Anti-Rust or anything like that inside will raise havoc with the outside weld..It wicks to the heat and floats thru your puddle to the top making you Acetone and a rag and as far inside as you can get...No burrs from the cutting process either.. Its the little things that make the big diffrence.. ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:the gas lens is a helpfull option, how ever its a bit hard to explain what you need as its hard to find an online site that is organized well enough to show ya ??  i have a gas saver setup, not the same but kinda.first pic shows a gas saver with clear and standerd cup and a standerd torch setupmine9from bottem to topbottem= standerd #17 setup (like your's)midle= long gas saver with pink cup(wont work with standerd parts only gas saver)top= gas saver with clear cupthere is a pic in there of a break down of the gas lense but its not too clear.here ya go check this out http://www.ckworldwide.com/3series.pdf it shows all 3 types standerd, gas saver and gas lens. hope this helps. Attached Images summer is here, plant a tree for mother earth. if you dont have time or space, sponcer some one else to plant one for you.feel free to shoot me a PM or e-mail me at [email][email protected] i got lots of time.
Reply:THanks fellas for all the help/advise.Here are a few shots of the welds....Again thanks for the comments and advise.Best Times with 434 Naturally Aspirated Vette60 - 1.261/8 -  6.37@ 107.25 MPH 1/4 - 10.08 & 134.9MPH1/4 - 9.60@144MPH
Reply:one link suspension?It looks good, I use a small handheld belt sander to get inside tubing, but a small wire brush or a die grinder would work great as wellHave we all gone mad?
Reply:What year is that Vette?  I have a 1982 stock white.  Chuck
Reply:The last pic has porosity in between the "V"..I see the bubble holes..NOT GOOD!!! Grind out and do it again..Check all the welds one more time......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterThe last pic has porosity in between the "V"..I see the bubble holes..NOT GOOD!!! Grind out and do it again..Check all the welds one more time......zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by ski_dwn_itOther than that how does it look?  I greatly respect everyone input.  Lots to be learned here.  I have lots of people coming to me for help with their vettes and chevelles - so I know the effort it is to give good advise.  Thanks.
Reply:Originally Posted by hotroddertighten up the 'dips', you really want each dip to overlap the previous one by at least 50%. looks a tad hot as well, more filler will cool the puddle too. just doing that may help with regards to porosity- remember the filler wire contains deoxidizerswhen you're fitting the tubes drill the breather hole so that it falls within the coped tubes weld area. that way you won't have to go back and fill them later
Reply:with your home welder do a spot weld on some stainless. should come out colour free. any colouration and you've probably got a leakwhat do usually weld at work? bear in mind that when welding 'flat' the shield gas will naturally 'pool' around the weld- especially fillet welds.welding tubing (especially out of position) the shield gas is being diverted away making it harder to get 'colour'.it's not a big deal with carbon steel anyway- full pen butt welds aren't purged with carbon, the scaling that occurs at the root is nothing to worry about despite it being far more oxidized than a grey weld
Reply:with what you just said about the color and looking where the holes were I bet the shielding gas was getting away.  Are you using a gas lens? I bet that will offer a huge improvement and stop any problems you have.If you already are, make sure your keeping the tungsten within 1/2" from the cup and crank the gas to 20cfm, if there is no improvement  then I would say try slowing down.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:No gas lense...I am going to order some this week and give that a try.Best Times with 434 Naturally Aspirated Vette60 - 1.261/8 -  6.37@ 107.25 MPH 1/4 - 10.08 & 134.9MPH1/4 - 9.60@144MPH
Reply:**WARNING, WARNING**About to go off-topic...Did you ever finalize or decide to take on that 100,000 piece work job? Interested in seeing another welding compadre do well. John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:Originally Posted by MicroZone**WARNING, WARNING**About to go off-topic...Did you ever finalize or decide to take on that 100,000 piece work job? Interested in seeing another welding compadre do well.
Reply:Sounds good. A little extra money isn't worth it for the family to suffer...and RACING! John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com