Home Made Hydraulic tanks.....pics inside

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Here is two tanks I am working on.  First tank is for my press, and I have a question.  I didn't have any alum tube for the pickup and I didn't want to have the port at the bottom.  So will the piece I have tacked in there work ok if I cap the top and weld the sides?  I didn't see any problems with it, but thought I would ask.  Second tank is for my dump trailer.  I still have to make the weld in fittings for both. Attached ImagesMy name's not Jim....
Reply:The only problem I see with the half pipe pickup tube, is that it is half the capacity of the hole it is leading to. I would also have a threaded port at the bottom with a plug in it for draining/maintenance in the future.Just my  opinion, not from a book, just from the road.Howes Welding Inc.www.howesweldinginc.com
Reply:If that's the only problem, then I am good to go.  That's an 1 3/8" hole it's leading to, but I'm going to weld in a 3/4" NPT fitting.  So size won't be a problem.  I thought about the drain plug too, that's what the dimple in the bottom is for.  I turn all my fittings out of 1 1/2" alum round.  I cut a should on the backside to fit the 1 3/8" hole sawed holes.  It helps me locate the fittings before welding.  I can also weld the inside if I'm feeling spunky that way.  Almost forgot, the pump drawing off this tank is only 1/2 a gallon a minute, so the real reason for the 3/4" NPT is cuz it will fit my filter housing.My name's not Jim....
Reply:A couple of comments.The less restrictions and the higher the suction is above the pump the better off you're going to be. All that's charging the pump is atmospheric pressureI so the more head you have the better off you are. I  understand your reluctance to put the suction in the bottom of the tank but it's the best place. Weld your coupling above the inside of the tank by 1/2" or so, that way you won't pick up any trash off the bottom.It doesn't look as if you have a return pipe in the tank. The return oil should be discharged below the surface of the oil so as not to aeriate it.Add a baffle, if not to prevent movement of the oil but to cause it to take the longest path from return to suction. That way it'll have more time to dissipate any heat.Almost forgot, the pump drawing off this tank is only 1/2 a gallon a minute, so the real reason for the 3/4" NPT is cuz it will fit my filter housing
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikey All that's charging the pump is atmospheric pressureI so the more head you have the better off you are.It doesn't look as if you have a return pipe in the tank. The return oil should be discharged below the surface of the oil so as not to aeriate it.
Reply:Those tanks are not 'home made'.....they're SHOP BUILT---a world ofdifference in the workmanship, design, etc. Nice job!Blackbird
Reply:This was the intended layout with the filter on the suction side.  I guess it makes more sense to me to filter the fluid before it gets run through the expensive stuff.  Valve will probably be mounted directly over top of the pump.  I have a feeling I will be making up some steel lines for this due to the tight quarters. Attached ImagesMy name's not Jim....
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonThose tanks are not 'home made'.....they're SHOP BUILT---a world ofdifference in the workmanship, design, etc. Nice job!
Reply:My apologies, I neglected to mention they are nice looking tanks and I'm not picking, just commenting, well...you asked ......but I don't quite buy the atmospheric pressure being the only thing charging the pump. What goes out must come in
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikey If the tank is above the pump you'll be fine.
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikeyThat's what you want, an open center valve.
Reply:Ok, did some searching, lot's of searching....Found out that a filter on the suction side is a no no.  From what I understand, the only thing thats acceptable is a 150 or higher micron screen, and there are even arguments against that.  It appears that the issues do not affect a gear pump as much, but to be safe I guess I'll just filter the return.  That's going to complicate my plumbing a bit, cuz I thought I had it figured out.Next question.  Steel lines......anything special or will brake lines work?  I have a flaring kit and am fairly handy with it.  According to the lit on my pump, it will produce 4000psi intermitantly.  That's the goal.  Prolly set the pressure relief at 3800-3900 though.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Originally Posted by Boostinjdmsnip Pride is kinda hard to swallow though, maybe I'll just order a new spool and swap it out.  Then chalk the expense up to the price of education.
Reply:With the filter on the suction side of the pump the bypass would never open, it takes pressure not vacuum to do that. Also don't be tempted to put the filter on the pressure side of the system because most spin on steel filters have a rated burst pressure of around 300 psi, the return line is where it belongs unless you have a high dollar filter unit for the pressure side. I'm not sure of the rating of brake lines but normal vehicle brake fluid pressure is 800-2000 psi, still below the possible 4000 psi you are looking at. Beautiful tank by the way“Life is not a journey to the grave with intentions of arriving safely in a pretty well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming ... WOW! What a ride!”
Reply:It's open center all right...open to all ports
Reply:Nice Work!!!!!Seek out your local hydraulic hose shop...They can build you a nice set of custom hoses for a reasonable price.  BTDT.... They have the know how and the tooling for bomb proof hoses... Home fabricated hydraulic hose is a PITA.
Reply:I hear what you guys are saying about the hoses, but....I don't think you realize how tight this is going to be.  I have a 10" wide by 38" long by 14" high space that all of this fits into.  Nothing can be above the tank other than the fill cap because it will interfere with the lowest setting for the table.  Once I get the valve and the relief in the little space in the middle, I'm going to have lots of twists and turns and I don't think hoses are going to pull it off due to the length of the crimped fittings.  We had a hose machine where I used to work  and I have made hoses in the past so I have a little experience.  I don't know, we'll see.  Mission for today is to get the fittings made and the tanks completed and mounted.  After that, I will work out the valve mounting and line routing.The wrong valve was my deal, I ordered it by part # that I picked out.  Anybody need a motoring valve?  Maybe I'll use it for my roller I want to build.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Don't forget you don't have to go straight to the valve you can always add a loop in the hose. If done correctly it doesn't look bad, you could always say it's for vibration isolation ....Mike
Reply:Yeah, I looked at it a little more today.  I might be able to work it out so all the hoses are 10" long or so.  We'll see, I got my fittings made, so I'm going to go finish up the tanks now.My name's not Jim....
Reply:One down, one to go.  Fits like a glove.  Little dissapointed in the polish though.  Came out looking like gunmetal.  I wasn't going for a chrome look, just a protected surface.  I used Never Dull cuz that's what I remember using as a kid.  Lot's of rubbing.I have another plumbing question.  This pump is suposed to be power up and coil controled down.  I have never hooked one of these up before.  What I want to know is...do the two ports (red and blue caps) have to be T'd together?  Red side has the relief on it, so I'm assuming that's pressure.  Blue side has the coil on it, so I'm assuming that's return.  I haven't seen any evidence the two are connected inside.  So to get my one hose for the single acting cylinder, I'm thinking I have to T them together.  Anybody know what's up for sure? Attached ImagesMy name's not Jim....
Reply:...do the two ports (red and blue caps) have to be T'd together
Reply:The reservoir looks VERY pretty!  That's some sweet aluminum work!www.lindgrensupercars.comMiller Dynasty 350Miller Dynasty 200DX - retiredMiller Millermatic 210Miller Spectrum 3080Miller "Power of Blue" stool  Miller Syncrowave 180SD - retired
Reply:Ah? I hate to do this but I just can't resist, First Really nice craftsmanship!Now the bad... I can pick up the entire setup you have made 3000psi working pressure 1.5-2 gallon reservoir used  for $50.00 and new for $125.00. Why build it from scratch?
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikeyGot me on that one, there is a third port correct, the suction?.  You had mentioned that you had a control valve, the one that you picked up incorrectly? If you have the pump setup I think you have, you don't need another valve. The pump is power up, gravity, or in your case, spring pressure down that is if your press cylinder is a proper press cylinder. There was no schematic with the pump when you got it?.....Mike
Reply:Originally Posted by Fat BastardAh? I hate to do this but I just can't resist, First Really nice craftsmanship!Now the bad... I can pick up the entire setup you have made 3000psi working pressure 1.5-2 gallon reservoir used  for $50.00 and new for $125.00. Why build it from scratch?Duhhh, never said I was the sharpest knife in the drawer (G).....Mike
Reply:Got a little more done on the tank for the press.  Here is a pic of the inside, glare kinda sux.  Anyways, it's got two returns, a pickup, and a baffle.  Pickup tube goes down to 1/2" above the bottom.  Return tubes go halfway down to make sure that they are below the fluid level at all times.  Baffle has lower corner opposite the ports cut off.  Hope this works, cuz I already buttoned it up.  Got to find some pipe plugs tommarrow so I can leak test it and polish 'er up. Attached ImagesMy name's not Jim....
Reply:Don't laugh at the welds.  That new Aluminized Tungsten was giving me fits.My name's not Jim....
Reply:Originally Posted by BoostinjdmDon't laugh at the welds.  That new Aluminized Tungsten was giving me fits.
Reply:Well here it is. Attached ImagesMy name's not Jim....
Reply:Looks good. Now, get 'er workin' ....Mike
Reply:It may be a bit yet, still got to get the correct valve, and a relief also.My name's not Jim....