Gun Bluing Tanks

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Has anyone built any gun bluing tanks?  My question is, should the bottom be radius Vs flat to reduce the volume being heated?I have 1/8" SS plate and plan on having drain plugs on the end with drop down spouts.Going to use 4 propane burners per tank to heat.Thanks in advancejimLast edited by Trap Doctor; 10-11-2009 at 10:51 AM.
Reply:The problem with a "v" tank is the amount you can put in it.  To make up for the volume you will need to make it taller.  At work we run black oxide, and they run the tanks 24 X 7.
Reply:Hey Jim,As a retired Master Gunsmith, I did bluing for 25 yrs. & also fabricated my tanks with SS. I made mine 60"L  X  6"H  X  8"W to be able to do a volume of parts baskets at one time, and could handle (4) bbl. actions at a time. I would suggest the flat-bottom to eliminate sliding around of parts. Although I used natural gas & a 60" burner underneath, your primary concern would be to insure even heating to avoid "hotspots". Bluing is a "controlled" rusting process of the steel, and not a coating as some think. The temperature range for the bluing process is 292* F to 320*F to insure a complete even coloring because of the differences with the barrel steel grade & the receiver steel grade. You will also find many of the older military receivers are case-hardened such as the Krag & some of the Japanese receivers & they will not get that blue-black color. They will have a "reddish" tint, so this is an area you may want to indicate to a customer so they aren't disappointed or pi$$ed when they get it back. Generally, small parts are no problem, but you must take precaution that all parts are steel.... use a magnet if necessary.Also, you must insure that any material, such as copper, brass, or alum. do not get into the tank as they will dissolve..... not pretty, & will contaminate your bluing salts that would have to be discarded. Your degreasing tank & rinse tanks can be made with CS to reduce costs, although, if you have enough SS, you can make it also with SS. My setup was to have the degrease tank against the bluing tank to "draw" some of the heat to keep the degreaser hot which was much more effective. The (2) rinse tanks were spaced 3" apart to keep the rinse water cool.Last, I must emphasize that your ventilation must be a primary concern. Bluing vapors are EXTREMELY CAUSTIC!   AND BE SURE TO KEEP VINEGAR VERY CLOSE TO YOUR AREA AS THIS IS THE ONLY LIQUID THAT WILL NEUTRALIZE A BLUING SALT BURN. Get a good rubber apron, gloves, & a full faceshield to protect yourself.  NEVER PLUG A BBL.!!!!  Anyway, do your homework....I got all my supplies from Brownell's and they have plenty of literature to be successful. Good Luck. Do not hesitate to ask any questions. Hope I helped a bit.....   DennyComplete Welding/Machine/Fab. ShopMobile UnitFinally retired*Moderator*"A man's word is his honor...without honor there is nothing.""Words are like bullets.... Once they leave your muzzle, you cannot get them back."
Reply:yorkiepap's,Thanks for all the info; my friend who has just graduated from the Colorado School of Trades in (Gun Smithing) will appreciate your comments. He is a great kid and learns very fast, so what you say will go into his memory bank.  Thanks againjim