telescoping square steel tubing

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Where can I get it? I need 2.5" outer and 2.25" inndersomething exactly like this.
Reply:Try 2 1/2" x 1/8" outer with 2 1/4" heavy wall inner. The heavy wall tubing has a more generous outside corner radius. I know 2 1/2 x 1/4 and 2" x 1/4" works.Cut an MGB and widened 11" C4 Corvette suspension and LT1 Chevrolet power & 6 spd. Pictures here:Part 1http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,7581Part 2http://forum.britishv8.org/read.php?13,22422
Reply:http://www.mcmaster.com/#telescoping-tubing/=f58f04They sell it in short pcs too but fairly thin wall
Reply:Originally Posted by Mario428http://www.mcmaster.com/#telescoping-tubing/=f58f04They sell it in short pcs too but fairly thin wall
Reply:Originally Posted by pyroracing85sweet!! i owe yaI called up several steel stores and they were helpful but were trying to sell me 3/16" wall or something like that.From what I was told true telescoping tubing is welded on the corner and has a tigther corner radius then HRS square steel.
Reply:Think they may call it seamless tubing, The 3/16 around 1/4 works good enough."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:Originally Posted by kolotThink they may call it seamless tubing, The 3/16 around 1/4 works good enough.
Reply:it means "Drawn Over Mandrel"the seam that causes the problem as to sliding one inside of the other  is smoothed out so you could call it seamlessLast edited by prop-doctor; 12-01-2011 at 12:27 AM.idealarc 250/250 ac-dc tigidealarc 250/250 ac-dc tig #2 used for sticklincoln sp100hh125dual arbor grinder polisher30 yrs of hand tools52 pitch blocks 6p-26prake gauge -pitch gaugeG&D prop repair 918-207-6938Hulbert,okla 74441
Reply:Originally Posted by pyroracing85seamless is "DOM" tubing right?
Reply:I just ordered 1.5" and 2"sqr (1/4 thick) for some telescoping mount I want to make.  I will probably add in some shims or something to make it a little more snug.JoeMiller 140 Autoset (2010)Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)
Reply:Originally Posted by joebieI just ordered 1.5" and 2"sqr (1/4 thick) for some telescoping mount I want to make.  I will probably add in some shims or something to make it a little more snug.
Reply:Originally Posted by fordmanNo seamless tube is seamless.. DOM Is still ERW tube, but cold drawn to size which makes a very nice smooth finish, and increases the strength of the material.
Reply:Originally Posted by pyroracing85Oh, I got ya kind of.Probably have to see it to understand.Done on mandrel "DOM" I guess they extrude it and therefore no seams it is all one piece..That is what I am thinknig...
Reply:Originally Posted by pyroracing85When you slide it are you adding grease or anything do it?I am going to put an electric motor and have it slide up and down maybe 10-15 times a day.
Reply:Many guys in the off road scene build square slip fit driveshafts. Drill and tap for a zerk fitting and your good to go.HTP Invertig 201Lincoln Idealarc SP250Miller 180 AC StickBy farmall:They should have held the seagull closer to the work, squeezing evenly for best deposition.
Reply:My bad, I was thinking of "DOM" but was calling it seamless, incorrectly as it is seamed and seamless is just that. "DOM" will cost you a little more but not as much as true seamless."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:Take a look at this thread:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=55257
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireTake a look at this thread:http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=55257
Reply:Originally Posted by joebieI will admit I had to look up the term broaching... but when I did... it all made sense :-)That's actually a fantastic idea.I wonder if along the same lines you could cut out the old weld completely(with an angle grinder) and re-weld it back together with some copper behind it or something.  Or would that completely deform the tube..?
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireCutting and re-welding the tube sounds like a LOT of work... even if you could do it without distortion, which is highly unlikely, your time would be better spend making a broach. Most placed carry some form of "receiver" tube designed for making trailer hitch receivers. It can nest well. It generally cost more than regular square tube. Sometimes if you are careful you can find some square tube that has little or no weld seam... in that case you get lucky and they nest. If your parts are short you can grind the seam out with a long die grinder.
Reply:I've asked a steel yard around here about special telescopingprofiles but they don't sell something like that - anyway I'm stuck withordinary square of round (including seamless) profile pipe for receivers for a future welding table project..As I do welding just for a hobby and don't have a good feeling for neededstrength of materials etc. I was just wondering - from the above posts(including the referenced post on broaching the seam), there is discussionabout profiles with wall thickness between 2mm and 4mm with profile clearanceof .084" (2mm) and then againin the "A manual welding positioner for the rest of us poor boys" thread(http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=31180) there is talk about1.5"sch40 round pipe and 2"sch 80 pipe which gives 1mm clearance(if my conversion is right).What I wanted to ask after all that typing was :(a)What sort of clearance should we be looking at when choosing these profiles(I can get imperial round profile but square profile is only metric in increments of 5mm and wall thickness in increments of 1mm) - or is it not so important if youadd 2 buttons/nuts and t-bars on each receiver -( I guess it's done like that - pushingthe inner profile upwards at two points along its length ?) ?(b)What wall thickness would be minimum for something like thegrinder, plasma grate (guessing items weighingless than 20kg ) and something a bit heavier like themanual weld positioner (in all cases no banging with a hammer)  ?(c)Lastly - if one wants receivers on all sides of a table, the receiversimmediately below the table are as long as that side of the table but any receivers on opposite sides of the table will  I guess be welded directly underneath the "main receivers" but do they need to be very long for the weights mentioned above(creating probs for clamping) ?
Reply:Ok, I went with 2"x2" tubing at 1/4" wall.  (not smart.)  With a 1.5"x1.5" inner tube.  You would need to make a broach, like Forhire said, and even then the clearance may not be exact.  I'm an idiot, and I didn't think things out enough (hah... cut first, measure second?) I would shoot for 3/16" wall or maybe even smaller.Reason I'm using sqr tubing, is much less work needs to be done to ensure there is no rotation.JoeMiller 140 Autoset (2010)Miller Syncrowave 250 (1996)
Reply:Originally Posted by vjeko(c)Lastly - if one wants receivers on all sides of a table, the receiversimmediately below the table are as long as that side of the table but any receivers on opposite sides of the table will  I guess be welded directly underneath the "main receivers" but do they need to be very long for the weights mentioned above(creating probs for clamping) ?
Reply:is there a max clearance between tubes above which one shouldnot go  + are my ideas on orientation of the "clamping" screwsOK  ?
Reply:bump.I ask because for square tubing I can only get outer dimensions in steps of 5 mmi.e. 20,25,30... mm.The wall thickness goes up in 1mm steps.The only really tight fit would beoutside tube with 5mm wall eg 50/5mm wall , able to fit 40mm inside (if we take care of the seam etc. and maybe sand the inner tube a bit)Any other combination using thinner wall tube will lead to a clearance betweentubes of 1mm or more. How does one use these tubes - are 2 t-handle screws sufficientor is something else done to lower the clearance / make it a more tight fit (eg weld some flat to the tube) ?You are over thinking this Welding table attachment- it is not going to to see anywhere near the forces that a real receiver/Hitch would.You just need a piece that slides in the other +/- tolerances don't matter as long as it slides in , weld on some nuts for the T handle Bolts for tightening the sleeved tubing and yer done.When you tighten the T handles all of the loose tolerances will be taken care of. Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:OK thanks ! excuse all the nit picky questions - I'm in a delicate state  - I could jump in and try everything out and learn that way but for some reason I just wantto absorb the knowledge until I feel I'm ready - I'm kind of trying to jump a fewsteps in theory before getting my hands dirty - trying to avoid unnecessarymistakes and associated waste of time and money  - and I just plain don't likejumping into something I'm uncertain of especially with such knowledgeable andhelpful people around on this forum