what kind of cold galvanize do you use?

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Just wondering.  I noticed the stuff that comes out of the spray cans doesn't really work very well.  We also use a brush on product from avero that seems to work much better.
Reply:Zirp, comes in a gallon can. http://www.duncangalvanizing.com/zirp/Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:I like Zinga.  Brush is messy and thick but does a fantastice job.  Five years out and not a spot of rust in part I filled in over welds in the company yard .. the rest was galvanized.  Zinga and Galvacon are the local brands.  A gallon can of the stuff must weigh at least 30 pounds.   A brush stirs and moves any dirt on the surface where a spray just covers over it.
Reply:Originally Posted by cycloneJust wondering.  I noticed the stuff that comes out of the spray cans doesn't really work very well.  We also use a brush on product from avero that seems to work much better.
Reply:If you can sand blast use an inorganic zinc primer such as Ameron Dimetcoat for ultimate corrosion resistance.  It's not gray, though... it's green.  This is the only way to truely match hot dip galvanized for corrosion resistance.
Reply:rattle bomb stuff from airgas.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:like lotechman, i  once had a gallon that weighed a lot.. i like the crc rattlecan stuff i get at fastenal..recently got a can of rustoleum at homedepot that didnt spray well but covered ok..half ran off my thumb....aint sure which product it was but twenty years ago a guy welded some 2"  galv pipe for me into a soccer goal.. we sprayed the welds  and still not any rust.. no real surface prep either..
Reply:Z.R.C. (brush on) which is 95% zinc has worked well for me.
Reply:I use LPS in the spray can 99% zinc, sold at ACE for about $10.00 a can, Pretty decent stuffAmerican by birth Southern by the Grace of God
Reply:What about topcoating any of these. I'd like to use it after repairing rust on the bottom of automotive doors then paint to match the car's original color.
Reply:I have a piece that still looks good after 20 years outside.  When I recondition my earlier Dialarc welder, I used Ford Blue engine paint (Duplicolor is favorite paint - smoothest).  I had another piece of equipment that came with a cabinet.  Sanded the cabinet with 60 grit with a DA.   Followed by rustoleum cold galvanized (Home depot I think).  I followed that by duplicolor sandable primer, 200 grit with a pad - very light presure.  Followed by engine paint.  Not a drop of rust from normal, non-moving, leave it out in the back yard.The local autoparts place carries etching primer with zinc.  I have a spray can of it but no excuse to use it yet.  I'm not sure if its the real deal or not.  Real etching primer should hold up to everything but contract with salt water (bottoms of boats).Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadlike lotechman, i  once had a gallon that weighed a lot.. i like the crc rattlecan stuff i get at fastenal..recently got a can of rustoleum at homedepot that didnt spray well but covered ok..half ran off my thumb....aint sure which product it was but twenty years ago a guy welded some 2"  galv pipe for me into a soccer goal.. we sprayed the welds  and still not any rust.. no real surface prep either..
Reply:Ive got a 2 part zinc primer that works good.  Part 2 is a tin of zink dust.  Weighs a ton.