Need sme "how to" advice

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I need to weld a 6 ft length of 1/2" plate to the top flange of an I beam.  The flange is 5/16.  how can I do this without distorting the beams flange.  This is for a wood splitter, so the flange needs to remain straight and flat. Attached ImagesHF Dual Mig 151 with Bluewelders and Galaxieman's modsHF Digital Plasma TorchHF Blue Flames Hood70's era Craftsman 230 stick welderVictor 100 OA
Reply:Are you making two of them?  It looks like it in the picture.  Set them back to back clamping at the ends and have a spacer between in the middle.  I am guessing at 1.5 inches ( a 2x4)   Stitch the plates say one inch of weld in every six inches and close the corners with an inch weld in both directions.   Alternate between sides and beams.   You might go a much as two inches in eight.  Let cool and release.  If the cap plate is same as the flange width then grind a little groove for each weld.
Reply:Thanks lotechman.  Yes I'm making two.  One is for my BIL.  The plate is about 1/2" narrower than the beams flange.  I'm not sure I follow what you say about clamping them back to back with a 2x4 in the middle.  Does the 2x4 separate the two beams and put tension on them?HF Dual Mig 151 with Bluewelders and Galaxieman's modsHF Digital Plasma TorchHF Blue Flames Hood70's era Craftsman 230 stick welderVictor 100 OA
Reply:Yes in the middle and clamp the ends.  Look at Zap's recent posting " Bend Before Weld 101"   How much to prebend the pieces is a guess.  If you prebend too much then it is easy to just add a few more weld beads.
Reply:OK, that makes sense,  I'll give that a try.  Thanks againHF Dual Mig 151 with Bluewelders and Galaxieman's modsHF Digital Plasma TorchHF Blue Flames Hood70's era Craftsman 230 stick welderVictor 100 OA
Reply:There is no reason the entire piece has to be completely welded out. Stitch it, take your time, jump from piece to piece and back step your welds.
Reply:Originally Posted by astaindsoul5446There is no reason the entire piece has to be completely welded out. Stitch it, take your time, jump from piece to piece and back step your welds.
Reply:I would stitch weld it 3"-12" and clamp them together with an arch in the opposite side than the plates. I would use about a 1/2" plate as the spacer. You should be fine. Have fun.CERTIFICATIONS:7018M- H.V.O10718M- H.V.O11018M- H.V.O9N10- H.V.O71T-1-HYM- H.O.V100S1 PULSE ARC 0,035- H.O.V100S1 PULSE ARC 0.045- H.O.VER70S-3 PULSE ARC 0.035 H.O.VER70S-3 PULSE ARC 0.045 H.O.VER5554- H.O.V
Reply:Will the plates be welded to both flanges of the beam?  If they are to be welded to the tension side (log side) you only need to make welds at each end of the plate.  If they are on the compression side (other side) they need to be welded at each end and intermittently to keep the plate from buckling independent of the beam.Curious as to why one of the beams has a doubler plate welded to it.  Were these pulled from a building demo?
Reply:You won't bend that doing the sides..Like stated..Skip around back and fourth and you will be just fine..Don't forget the clamps.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Thanks for the ideas everyone.  Really is nice having access to the experts.  I never claim to be a welder.  I can stick two pieces of metal together, not pretty, but usually make a good joint.  That's where my ability ends.  Figuring out how to keep pieces from bending and twisting goes beyond my scope.  When I welded the 1/4" plate between the flanges, I stitched about 4" at a time, alternating sides, and it looked pretty good until it was done.  Then I noticed one of the beams has a slight twist to it.  Not enough to be a problem, but It reminded me that I really don't know what I' doing as far as the welding goes.  I'm a machinist, so I've had no trouble making all the parts.  Now sticking them all together is another matter.That flange needs to be flat and even after the plate is welded to it, because the blade carrier is going to ride on it with very little clearance between the flange and the guides.  I'll go with short welds about a foot apart as y'all suggest.  Maybe this contraption will actually work one day.HF Dual Mig 151 with Bluewelders and Galaxieman's modsHF Digital Plasma TorchHF Blue Flames Hood70's era Craftsman 230 stick welderVictor 100 OA
Reply:Originally Posted by FegenbushWill the plates be welded to both flanges of the beam?  If they are to be welded to the tension side (log side) you only need to make welds at each end of the plate.  If they are on the compression side (other side) they need to be welded at each end and intermittently to keep the plate from buckling independent of the beam.Curious as to why one of the beams has a doubler plate welded to it.  Were these pulled from a building demo?
Reply:Originally Posted by astaindsoul5446There is no reason the entire piece has to be completely welded out. Stitch it, take your time, jump from piece to piece and back step your welds.
Reply:Originally Posted by Dave1941Please explain Back step your welds.  As said, I'm no welder.
Reply:Got it!  Thanks CEP.HF Dual Mig 151 with Bluewelders and Galaxieman's modsHF Digital Plasma TorchHF Blue Flames Hood70's era Craftsman 230 stick welderVictor 100 OA
Reply:Can you bolt them together with some countersink bolts, you could still stitch them but with less stitches. You could bolt them up a little towards the middle if you need to. They sell counter sink nit for this purpose, very handy in this case.Dont weld them by themself , they will warp for sure. Back to back like somebody mention with clamps and let them get cold before unclamping them.
Reply:Stitch it. don't use bolts. don't worry about warping. do short welds. I'd do about 2" of weld travel per weld, and 6"-10" between welds. Swap ends and sides of the plate between each weld. still use the back step welding techinique but it's going to alternate in conjuction with the end of the plate your welding (back steping towards the middle of the plate) For example. If I have the plate laid out lengthwise from me. I would start on the far right. then do the near right, then the far left, than the near left.  than the cycle repeats until you're at the middle of the plate. keep it clamped until the whole thing is cool.Hope that in understandable.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerStitch it. don't use bolts. don't worry about warping. do short welds. I'd do about 2" of weld travel per weld, and 6"-10" between welds. Swap ends and sides of the plate between each weld. still use the back step welding techinique but it's going to alternate in conjuction with the end of the plate your welding (back steping towards the middle of the plate) For example. If I have the plate laid out lengthwise from me. I would start on the far right. then do the near right, then the far left, than the near left.  than the cycle repeats until you're at the middle of the plate. keep it clamped until the whole thing is cool.Hope that in understandable.
Reply:cep got for me. Thanks bud