DIY flatbed ideas?

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Hello there, I've searched the forums and got some great ideas for my planned F250 flatbed project. It sure seems like all of these flatbeds are waaaay overbuilt and would like some opinion on that. I look at how my oem box is built and when compared to the typical DIY flatbed, it looks like a cardboard box.So for those of you who have built flatbeds, do you feel that they are overbuilt, and did it that way for a safety margin?I am looking at flatbedding a 91 F250 4x4.  It is a recreational truck and all I will haul on it is either 2 snowmobiles, or a camper.  I want to flatbed it so that I don't have to put a snowmobile deck on in the winter, and so that I can have more usable space under the sides of the camper for storing camping gear (lawn chairs, kids toys, outboard motor, gas, etc).  90% of my driving is paved highway/city roads, 9% is good dirt/gravel forestry roads and the last 1% would be rough (but still 2wd) road to get the last couple kms into the secret camping spots.I built my own sled deck and it is light - 2 people can lift it out of the truck (but they better be big people and they are going to work at it, but it is doable). so the flatbed doesn't have to be super strong/heavy for the sleds.  When the camper is on, most of the weight will still be right over the truck frame rails so there isn't much need for super heavy duty outriggers (supports perpendicular to the truck frame rails)I do plan to really beef up the back of the deck and tie it in well to the frame,  because it will incorporate a very heavy duty hitch and I do tow either my Jeep Cherokee on a car hauler (total about 6000lbs) or my 17.5 ft boat (never weighed it, but it is heavy)I am also playing with the idea of making a very rigid deck, and only having it firmly attached at either the back or front of the truck.  The other end would 'float' to allow the frame to twist without twisting the deck (and camper).  I have a Mercedes Unimog model kit that illustrates this concept quite well.  However, this idea might complicate my secure hitch point fabrication.Mostly I'm just putting this out there to get some input from others on my ideas, before I actually start to build.  So if you have some comments, I'd love to hear them.
Reply:You are correct in your assumption that most beds are vary overbuilt. Much due to not understanding the loads they are dealing with. I have built many beds out of 10ga steel (formed) all through out. I have built many of aluminum in .125 thickness all through outMany out of C3x4.1 cross rails with C6x8.2 long rails.T&G planks for the bed with an over lay of tread plate, is common.  The lighter you make it the better for fuel and load capacities. The trick with the floating bed works great. weld the rear to the frame (after the suspension pickup points) incorporate the hitch and bumper in this connection and bolt the front using springs and long bolts.IMHO most beds are overbuilt out of ignorance and masculine overcompensation. The real sign of a well designed bed will be one built as light as needed for the job required. Good Luck with your project.
Reply:FB's advice is dead on. I've only built one flatbed, on a '79 chevy, and I did exactly what he said.It was way over built.All in all it worked out fine, but I could have saved a bunch of money and weight by building it to the required strength.My longsills were 3"channel, crossmembers 4"channel on 2' centers, and I think I used 6" channel on the front and back.When you don't know any better, overcompensate.
Reply:I'd say it all depends. I've had to rebuild several lightly built factory flatbeds because of issues.The 1st had to have all the 14g bent cross members replaced and it wasn't that heavily loaded. They cracked and sagged. The 2nd got a complete rebuild. The body actually crushed the 3"x2" 1/8" rect tube that was used as frame fillers and that was just the start of issues that were found. I have another one to go over and look at possibly rebuilding before the guy remounts it on a "new" chassis as soon as the snow melts enough we can dig it out.All these were for "light" F350 class trucks used for construction, mostly to just haul tools, not materials. If you don't beat on it, a light DIY one might work fine, but usually most flat beds get loaded way more than they probably should. I've found the average guy really has no clue about how heavy their loads actually are. If these still lift left in the springs, they think it can take more weight. I've seen F250 class trucks with 7K in the bed + a 16K trailer, and the response from the driver was it wasn't on the frame yet so he's good to go. .No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I've built several flatbeds through the years and always copied a truck bed I saw on an old weldor's truck that I thought hit it just perfect. There is square tube running down the frame to get the frame line back to straight. On my Chevy it is 2"x1/4". Then I use flat strap crossways every foot all the way. The flat strap is 3"x1/2" in the very back, under my gin poles, and under the winch frame. The rest is 3"x1/8" and the back 3' of bed is boxed every foot the other way as well. My deck is 12 ga. diamond plate. I built this bed in 1992 and there is no dents on top or any other kind of damage even though many weldors have told me it wasn't built heavy enough.Here is a bed I built for a rancher that was built the same way. I made the door for the gooseneck hitch and no hinges stick up above the deck. Also the trailer light connections are on an arm that swings up and out toward the side so he doesn't have to get on the bed to hook them up. He's 82.Building a bed this way makes a very light, very strong bed that is easy to build and cheap, material wise. I hope this helped. Attached Images
Reply:Thanks for the input guys. It will definitely help in my design process.  I'll start a build thread when I get going on this, because it is definitely going to get done.
Reply:i cant see the image, whats up? pigpen
Reply:Originally Posted by pigpen60i cant see the image, whats up? pigpen
Reply:I think most bed's are overbuilt as well, In my case though I have always had access to the angle iron and struct. channel but shears and brakes are something I have to farm out and often gets pricy if you don't know the guys with the equipment pretty well. just as easy to use the heavier material, the trade off is the weight. Then there are those that really get carried away with the iron. Good Luck"Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:I will repost the pictures Attached Images
Reply:^^^^ wow thats a reall nice bed. What are the bed side made of? Got any build pics?Adam MMorales Ranch