Silver Solder

admin

Ive read quite a few posts now touting the superiority of Silver Solder brazing over the TIG process for making bandsaw blades.  I see different solders available.  Is the 15% silver the one I would want?  What is the best flux to use?What would be my best source for a small amount of it?  I don't want to spend the money on a pound of it.  That amount would likely outlive me.  Thanks.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:You don't buy it by the pound. You buy it by the ounce. 15% is not going to flow for squat if you are going to overlap. 56% is the easiest by far to use if you want the cadmium free solder. Otherwise the 45% cadmium alloyed filler is very good.White flux, carburizing flame, and  56% silver and you will be a super happy camper.Your LWS should have it in a 3/64" or 1/32" diameter. If not McMaster.com carries it.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:From what I've seen at my LWS, they have a tube that's probably a quarter pound, with a bunch of sticks in there, and they'll sell you one stick.  I'd guess that there are two or three sticks to the ounce (depending on the diameter).At jeweler's suppliers, it's sold in a coil by the ounce.I stick with the cadmium free.  Cadmium is super dangerous stuff.
Reply:As above, you would normally buy it by the single stick, or by the ounce.Even then the price will really shock you.Cheers,  Tony._________________________________Transmig 310 + Argoshield LightOxy acetyleneOxy propanePrehistoric stick welder_________________________________
Reply:I bought a small amount of cad free off eBay for $16.  It's the 56%. As for the bandsaw blades, how does one set up the joint for silver solder and what is "white flux"?I've read to grind as a lap joint with a 1/16" overlap for tigging.  I'm assuming a bit more overlap, a post brazing grind, and no need for annealing.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Originally Posted by Drf255I bought a small amount of cad free off eBay for $16.  It's the 56%. As for the bandsaw blades, how does one set up the joint for silver solder and what is "white flux"?I've read to grind as a lap joint with a 1/16" overlap for tigging.  I'm assuming a bit more overlap, a post brazing grind, and no need for annealing.
Reply:Interesting! I have also heard silver solder is recommended for use on building bicycle tube frames. TIG is usually the preferred method, but old school soldering is better "they say."Thanks for the info, SteveJunkYard Tools .com
Reply:I build bikes using both joining techniques. The only thing that's better about a brazed frame is the aesthetic appeal to a lot of potential customers. Of course, this can't be discounted! In the old days, welding was viewed as the "cheap" way to make a frame and there was a lot of snobbishness directed towards these frames. The reality was that a lot of builders saw the tide turning towards welding and they were trying to save their market share by bashing the other joining method. There was (and still is) a lot of talk about brazing being "easier" on the tubing because of the lower temperature. Again, the reality is the only bikes that fall apart are the ones that were built poorly regardless of joining technique. You can make a bad brazed frame as easily as you can make a bad welded frame. To me, both ways can be very nice looking. Lately though, I've prefered the minimalist look of a weld bead myself. I also think that it shows the skill of the builder a little more since you get one shot and can't do any clean up on the joint like you can post-brazing.
Reply:There's nothing more minimalist looking in a bike frame than a fillet brazed and filed joint.  Totally smooth transition between tubes.
Reply:Originally Posted by rlitmanThere's nothing more minimalist looking in a bike frame than a fillet brazed and filed joint.  Totally smooth transition between tubes.
Reply:Originally Posted by rlitmanI stick with the cadmium free.  Cadmium is super dangerous stuff.
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcSo is lead, so is nickel, so is chrome... Just don't eat it!!!!!  Cadmium is a poisonous metal yes, but only if you smoke it, eat it or inject it into your veins!!! Sadly, the EPA has deemed Cadmium an "evil" metal if used WITHOUT precautions!  Cadmium however is superior in corrosion protection than many other types of metals (like zinc), yet add ductility without breaking soon (like nickel).  If you're going to weld or braze with Cad, just don't inhale the smoke plume!  Then again, do you inhale the smoke from a camp fire?  Car exhaust? general SMAW electrodes? Flux core welding???  If you said "yes" to the above questions, you really need to change your welding practice.  I work with cadmium every day in the metal finishing industry.  It's safe IF you take some common sense steps not to breath the darn stuff.  Welding/brazing outdoors is the best prevention to cadmium poisoning.  Once the cad is adheared to the metal, it's not going to harm anyone.  Unless however, you cook your steak and eggs on a cadmium coated surface.  Don't let cadmium scare you.