1/2" & 3/16" steel with 1/8" rod

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I'm making some steel targets for cowboy action shooting. so nothing critical by any means.  I'm also using this as an opportunity to practice different ways to run the weld.i scored a whole bunch of 1/2" plate steel for free, and the guy cut it up into 5"x6" pieces for me.  I've also got a bunch of salvage 3/16" strap steel i sheared into 5"(ish) pieces to make a base for the plate.i've been doing 3 pass welds with 1/8" 7014 to connect the two together.  Is that enough?I could probably get some 5/32" rod, but my 1/8" stuff is getting kinda old and should probably be used up.takes a long time to weld 'em up this way, i'm trying to give my welder time to rest as i'm in the 20% duty cycle range.thanks for any tips.
Reply:I read you are welding 1/2" to 3/16".   Your fillet needs to be 3/16".   If you are at the top of the duty cycle, bigger rod will not help.  How many amps are you running the 7014 at?   1/8" rod should be plenty big for the job.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:If you are cleaning your metal good and putting a bevel on the 1/2" . Running between 100 and 120amps two passes should do it, root pass and cover passwww.georgesplasmacuttershop.comPlasma Cutter and Welder Sales and Repairs--Ebay storeTec.Mo. Dealer Consumables for the PT and IPT torch's
Reply:So if I understand right the 3/16 lays flat on the ground and then the 1/2" sticks up, making your weld a fillet weld, not a butt weld.  Heck, a single pass on each side with 1/8" rod would be plenty I'd think.
Reply:Originally Posted by tbone550So if I understand right the 3/16 lays flat on the ground and then the 1/2" sticks up, making your weld a fillet weld, not a butt weld.  Heck, a single pass on each side with 1/8" rod would be plenty I'd think.
Reply:Originally Posted by Meborder...if i could do this in 2 passes, that would be great, i guess i was shooting for about a 1/2" fillet, but maybe I don't need that much....
Reply:is the 3/16 base being nailed down or is the target free to move? most steel targets are made to rotate or hang from a chain so the bullet impact does not destroy it immediately..and to keep the bullet from coming back at you... if thats true of your design ,  you need a couple of 1" long  one pass beads is all.....
Reply:they will be sitting on a narrow stand (strap steel with a 90* bend at the top) so they tip over and fall to the ground when shot.maybe i'm overkilling it on the weld?i don't mind if a couple break once and awhile, but it would be quite embarrasing if they ALL broke right away.
Reply:What is undercut and fillet mean? Thanks
Reply:GOOGLE is your best friend to get those answers, or the search box here
Reply:Originally Posted by QTEXWhat is undercut and fillet mean? Thanks
Reply:First pic shows undercut at the top and bottom of the weld bead.The ones on the left are "T" joints. The ones on the right are "Lap" joints. Both are fillet welds.Last edited by Stick-man; 01-24-2012 at 07:57 PM."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:someone mentioned making a 2-pass weld.where would the 2 passes go?   One in the corner, and one on the 1/2" side root?  never done a 2-pass weld before ...
Reply:Originally Posted by Stick-manUndercut is below the centercut.A fillet is the opposite side of the New York Strip, on a Porterhouse!