Student needing help with how to arc weld

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Hell everyone i am a student. I am learn smaw(arc welding). I would like some help on how to do vertical t joints. i am currently using 5/32 7018 and hot. my problem is i burning through and sometimes its so frustrating. Also can someone help me with the best book or dvd to read or watch to learn how to weld.
Reply:List as much info as possible. Material thickness, amps used etc.5/32" rods sounds quite large for learning. The tech school usually has students use 1/8" rods on 3/8" plate to learn the basics for vertical filets with 7018 running roughly 125 amps DCEP.The one thing I find is the biggest issue with people learning vertical is they simply have not yet learned to read the puddle. They can get by with timing patterns doing flat and horizontal, but they can't make that work for vertical well. Stick is harder than mig for this. You have to be able to differentiate the slag from the molten puddle. Once you can do this, you will be able to manipulate the rod and puddle to get the results you want..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:3/32-  crawl1/8-    walk5/32-  runyou gotta crawl before you walk, walk before you run.start smaller, once you learn how to control your arc and puddle, travel speed, rod angle, etc with 3/32 then move to 1/8, then 5/32.5/32 is alot of metal to start learning with.  the burn through you talk of is because of long arc, either from your ro angle or arc length. try turning the machine down a little and weave a little more. as much as i hate weaving, you kinda have to running a 5/32 + vert.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWList as much info as possible. Material thickness, amps used etc.5/32" rods sounds quite large for learning. The tech school usually has students use 1/8" rods on 3/8" plate to learn the basics for vertical filets with 7018 running roughly 125 amps DCEP.The one thing I find is the biggest issue with people learning vertical is they simply have not yet learned to read the puddle. They can get by with timing patterns doing flat and horizontal, but they can't make that work for vertical well. Stick is harder than mig for this. You have to be able to differentiate the slag from the molten puddle. Once you can do this, you will be able to manipulate the rod and puddle to get the results you want.
Reply:in school we are using 7018 1/8 3/32 but my class or short so i am actually getting taught by someone who has been welding for years so he has me welding with big rods 5/32 and hot. when i first started i liked to cold weld but now i like hot welding and bigger rods. some days i do good vertical and some days bad.i have problems when i first getting started. but once i have meat on the plate it is easier to weld on top of weld. i need help starting. he has me coming down with 5/32 side to side and then up side to side.
Reply:Originally Posted by astaindsoul54463/32-  crawl1/8-    walk5/32-  runyou gotta crawl before you walk, walk before you run.start smaller, once you learn how to control your arc and puddle, travel speed, rod angle, etc with 3/32 then move to 1/8, then 5/32.5/32 is alot of metal to start learning with.  the burn through you talk of is because of long arc, either from your ro angle or arc length. try turning the machine down a little and weave a little more. as much as i hate weaving, you kinda have to running a 5/32 + vert.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWList as much info as possible. Material thickness, amps used etc.5/32" rods sounds quite large for learning. The tech school usually has students use 1/8" rods on 3/8" plate to learn the basics for vertical filets with 7018 running roughly 125 amps DCEP.The one thing I find is the biggest issue with people learning vertical is they simply have not yet learned to read the puddle. They can get by with timing patterns doing flat and horizontal, but they can't make that work for vertical well. Stick is harder than mig for this. You have to be able to differentiate the slag from the molten puddle. Once you can do this, you will be able to manipulate the rod and puddle to get the results you want.
Reply:If you want to weld for companies and not on your own you need to learn to weld with the rods that will be available. Not many companies will buy 5/32 rods for you. I cant imagine anybody trying to teach someone to weld hot with a big rod. I think you would be better off to find a new instructor. Harold
Reply:If you order the dvds from northern tool  for stick welding they are really helpful he explains everything and shows you how to pick out the puddle from the slagQuality is our policy.
Reply:And those videos are on sale!http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...0400_200310400
Reply:Id start with a 3/32" electrode, for sure... Here is a video that I've made on the subject, hope it helps [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:excaliber( ? ) 7018 3/32 or 1/8.... smoothest running rod I have ever used.Lincoln pro mig 180Lincoln Square Wave Tig 300/wp 20/home built water cooler Victor, Purox, Harris, O/A welding/cutting setupsVintage Craftsman drill pressVintage Craftsman/Atlas 12"x 36'' lathe7''x 12'' w/c band saw Everlast 140 st
Reply:First pass I do, is what I call a Christmas tree. Basically I make small, overlapping triangles going up the joint. After the first pass I do a regular weave slightly overlapping my root pass. This is with 1/8th 7018 rod at about 110-115 amps.
Reply:Hope its OK if I post another welding sites address?Check out weldingtipsandtricks.com. Jody makes a lot of good videos for beginners, and films them in such a way that you can see the weld pool. I think he films them through a welding lens or something? Like this one it is a great site for learning about welding.Welding everything, from the crack of dawn to a broken heart.
Reply:Originally Posted by WelderskelterIf you want to weld for companies and not on your own you need to learn to weld with the rods that will be available. Not many companies will buy 5/32 rods for you. I cant imagine anybody trying to teach someone to weld hot with a big rod. I think you would be better off to find a new instructor. Harold
Reply:Originally Posted by eagleman193If you order the dvds from northern tool  for stick welding they are really helpful he explains everything and shows you how to pick out the puddle from the slag
Reply:Originally Posted by CapozzoliHope its OK if I post another welding sites address?Check out weldingtipsandtricks.com. Jody makes a lot of good videos for beginners, and films them in such a way that you can see the weld pool. I think he films them through a welding lens or something? Like this one it is a great site for learning about welding.
Reply:Originally Posted by damianmurdockastaindsoul5446Thanks i appreciate that. This guy i have training me he started me out like this with this big rod. I didnt like at first but now i do. I do long arc a lot. i actually welded with the smaller rods yesterday and it came out ok but took alot  better
Reply:5/32 is simply way too much to learn with. Flat, horizontal its fine to learn. Overhead and vertical its simply too much for a begginer to learn with
Reply:ok guys thanks for response. i am using 1/8 rods currently.
Reply:One of the BEST Arc welding video series out there is produced by the Wall Mountain Company, up in Idaho.  It's host is Steve Bliel (Sp?).  Here in "Arc Welding Part 5", he talks about 7018 and the different positions.  According to "Jody" at weldingtipsandtricks' website, he basically says that this DVD series is the best out there (and I'm totally paraphrasing!)   On youtube, somebody made it a 10 part series.  It rocks!  I've listed a link for 7018 in Part-5.  By no means should you just watch part 5.  In other parts of the series, he talks about 7018 again.  You'll learn A LOT from this series.  Here's the video for part 5.  Just do a search and when you have about 2 hours, you should grab your notebook and popcorn and start with part 1 of the series.  I've watched this series now about 5 different times and I always learn more.  As for a great book(s), I highly recommend three of them.  I've researched and researched and bought nearly a dozen or more "welding" or "metal fabrication" books.  I've researched the topic until I was blue in the face.  My top three in my own humble opinion that I would consider "mandatory" for anyone's SMAW library are as follows: 1)  The Proceedure handbook, 14th edition by the James F. Lincoln Welding foundation.  This book pretty much tells you in a nut shell how virtually every type of welding electrode (SMAW) is used, what it's used for, best positions, amperages used, metalurgy of the rods themselves, etc... It gives a lot more of technical mumbo-jumbo out there for the professional welder, but also for the home hobbiest.  It's a hard back book and if you buy it directly from the James F. Lincoln welding foundation, it's only $25.00.  It's a hardback and thick!  14th edition is the latest and most up to date book.  I reference it all the time at my home hobby shop.  From Lincoln's website:  Published by The James F. Lincoln Arc Welding FoundationWith over 500,000 copies of previous editions published since 1933, the Procedure Handbook is considered by many to be the “Bible” of the arc welding industry. Now readers have an early opportunity to order this new and totally revised edition. The hardbound book contains over 750 pages of welding information techniques and procedures; photographs, drawings and charts. Much of this material has never been included in any other book.2) Metals and how to weld them, by the James F. Lincoln Welding foundation.This book is awesome!  I read it cover to cover!  "Jody" from welding tips and tricks.com again highly recommended this book and I'm glad I bought it!  It too is a hardback book.  Now, it has "old" info in it, but as Jody said, the information in the book is still in practice today and can apply to much of today's modern day welding.  Although I did find some info was outdated, but the majority of metal "facts" and what happens to various metals and alloys is the same today as it was 50 years ago!   For only $10.00 directly from Lincoln, it's a steal! From Lincoln's website: by T.B. JEFFERSON and GORHAM WOODSThis book describes the internal structure of metals and its relation to mechanical and physical properties and weldability. The first edition of this book sold 30,000 copies, and the reason for this acceptance is this practical manual discusses the various metals used by industry and tells what processes and procedures can be used to weld them.This dual purpose textbook and reference manual is written in non-technical language so high school seniors, weldors, supervisors, engineers and educators will easily assimilate all data.Photos, diagrams and tables, 195 in all, back-up the text. Each of the 21 chapters concludes with a glossary of new terms used in each chapter, plus review questions on points worthy of extra note.The 400 page book is 6" x 9" with gold embossed hard cover.and finally.....3) How to Weld by Todd BridigumThis book is top notch!  Great quality color pictures with very sturdy paper they printed it on.  This book is very very modern.  Most of the photos he has in the book is of relatively "current" welding equipment out on the market today.  He has an extensive detailed coverage of basic SMAW electrodes and how they are used.  He even has exercises listed in the book on different welding positons and various welding electrodes and how to use them.  The book also covers TIG, OXY/AC, plasma, gases, MIG, etc...  this book can be found on Amazon.  Again, the first two books, DO NOT buy from anywhere else but Lincoln themselves.  It's the cheapest out there!  For example, Amazon wants $75.00 for the Proceedure handbook, while Lincoln only wants $25.00!!!!!  Here is the link for Lincoln's welding foundation, where you can order the book:http://www.jflfoundation.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=24Again, I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend you watch the arc welding series I posted above and purchase those three books as mentioned.  You'll never need another SMAW reference book out there again.  ...Except perhaps a book on welding "projects."  Hope this all helps.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:Thanks for this post. i have watch steve maybe thirty times. i watch it every day. i will look into the books u gave me though. thanks again
Reply:Not sure if the vids mention but the flux fools some people.  They think they are losing control and all the weld metal is running away.  The flux is a slightly different colour so don't panic as you see it run downward.   Also the weld metal is deposited vertically under your electrode. Notice in the Lanse video that he mentions how the weld metal is deposited on each side and he takes his second hand and motions under his fist.  That is what happens.  The weld metal drops to the underside of the electrode tip and is deposited.  That means your rod tip should be slightly above the location you want the weld metal to end up.  If you aim the rod at the cooled puddle location you will just pile up metal and get a lump.  When I zig zag my eyes are actually looking at the old puddle cooling while the electrode is located slightly above the other side's cold puddle.  Then I switch sides moving above the cooling puddle while I am looking at the puddle that I left behind planning my next move.
Reply:Last edited by yakdung; 03-13-2012 at 12:06 PM.
Reply:thanks everyone for your help i actually did some welding today on veritcal and looks much better but with practice i will finally get this am very determineOriginally Posted by damianmurdockthanks everyone for your help i actually did some welding today on veritcal and looks much better but with practice i will finally get this am very determine