Need a few suggestions... coffee table I built

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I built this coffee table out of 3X3X1/8 square tube.  I welded it with 7018 3/32 rod using my xmt304.  I am in the process of finishing it, I am not very experienced in finishing.  Its taking me forever.  I don't want to tell the customer to take it to a body shop or somewhere else till I try everything I can.  So far what I am doing is grinding it flat and rough then sanding it with a belt sander 40 grit.  It takes long enough to get it sanded down in the accessible spots but I cant fit the belt sander in any of the hard to reach spots which leaves about half the table to be sanded by hand or with this jig I made using my sawzall.  I made a contraption which is a sanding block that is attatched to a sawzall blade. It helps but I have to remove a lot of material to get it right.  In that first picture it looks like its messed up but its just the lighting and some dust I think.  On the surface of the table that you see in the first picture I went over it using my belt sander at 40 grit and thats the finish he wants.  But to get that finish other areas is very time consuming.  Any suggestions on how to finish this, other tools I may need and what not?  Ok thanks. Attached Images
Reply:Unfortunately I would have suggested doing 90% of the finish work 1st, then all you'd have to do is the areas you welded and blend to match. It's a bit late for that I'm afraid.I love the design of the table BTW...No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Just in case you were wondering its getting a 3/4 inch piece of glass, rectangle and will be glued to discs in three points.  I suggested 1/2" glass but thats what he wants.  I may drill and weld nuts or couplings on the underside of the base so he can adjust the height and level it off in the event that the floor is not level.  Right now the finishing tools I have is my angle grinders with sanding attatchments, a dremel with sanding bits as well as carbide to get the inner joints, my belt sander, and the custom jig I made for my sawzall.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWUnfortunately I would have suggested doing 90% of the finish work 1st, then all you'd have to do is the areas you welded and blend to match. It's a bit late for that I'm afraid.I love the design of the table BTW..
Reply:Maybe you can convince the customer that a nice "soft" finish might be better. My 1st thought reading this was to have it "sand" blasted. I was thinking some sort of fine finish like glass bead or a very fine sand. You'd loose the brushed finish that way, but maybe you could get away with that on some areas and the "brushed" on others.I've always been impressed with the guys that can rebrush a SS top after welding and forming. Several guy here have done that so hopefully they will chime in. I doubt an auto shop will have the skills for this. Possibly someone who does plating..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by 66myndJust in case you were wondering its getting a 3/4 inch piece of glass, rectangle and will be glued to discs in three points.  I suggested 1/2" glass but thats what he wants.  I may drill and weld nuts or couplings on the underside of the base so he can adjust the height and level it off in the event that the floor is not level.  Right now the finishing tools I have is my angle grinders with sanding attatchments, a dremel with sanding bits as well as carbide to get the inner joints, my belt sander, and the custom jig I made for my sawzall.
Reply:Originally Posted by jdh239The glass should be tempered.  If a kid were to climb on there, and drop something just right, it could break up and really cut them up if it isn't.
Reply:I like the design also, I dont know if it is just me or what but it seems a little short? or are you adding something to fix that?Age:17Machine: Lincoln AC 225v Arc WelderMotive: TO learn everything i can about weldin
Reply:How are you planning on keeping that finish after paint?  I can't imagine you'll be leaving it bare carbon steel?
Reply:Your observation is right on.  The table is lacking in height relative to a normal coffee table.  It is just under 16".  When deciding length, width, and height, if you change one dimension you are affecting others.  The center tube, had it been more vertical to increase height, would result in a wider table.  The dimensions I worked out seemed to be the most asthetically pleasing.  To make the table higher I plan on drilling three holes near the points of the triangle on the underside and weld a nut or coupler in there so some sort of foot can be screwed into it.  It will raise it and level it off in the event of an uneven floor.
Reply:Originally Posted by SupeHow are you planning on keeping that finish after paint?  I can't imagine you'll be leaving it bare carbon steel?
Reply:A brushed finish looks kind of nice and all, but on mild steel you have to add some sort of coating to keep the steel from rusting.That's kind of why a brushed finish is used on stainless steel (no coating or paint needed) and paint or powder-coat is usually used on plain steel.  Unless you have an exterior item and make it out of weathering steel like Cor-10 and let it all surface rust (you have to use a compatible weld filler).If a 'silver' look is desired for the metalwork, maybe a silver paint or powdercoat finish?  Silver Hammer-tone paint is kind of interesting looking, but may be too 'industrial' looking.  Or maybe not.  Either that or maybe change the surface finish from a brushed finish to a non-directional media-blasted finish.  Case there is almost no way you can get a sander and the grain lines into those tight acute interior angles.  But you could direct a media blaster into there.Interesting table by the way.  A piece of 3/4 inch thick tempered glass?  Ouch $$$ !  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Very cool design- I'm putting those pics in my folder of things I also want to build one day.Lincoln AC225 & MigPak 140, Lincoln Magnum SpoolGun, Miller Spectrum 375-X Plasma, Syncrowave 200 TIG, Millermatic 252 MIG, Miller Digital Elite, General 7x12" horiz/vert bandsaw, 3' box/pan brake, 20 ton press, milling machine, 12x28 lathe, etc.
Reply:thanks for the comments.  I'm going to go ahead and suggest a silver type paint of some sort and see what he says.  I spent a few hours today sanding and didn't get much done.  When I sand it down you can see in certain spots a very small undercut or a pit here and there.  Definitely not porous but just enough that I have to put a little tack weld over it and then grind it down.  I'd say not so frequently but enough to be frustrating is when even my tack will have a minor undercut that is noticable and again I have to grind and sand again.  I'm thinking that I might be better off with a solid wire mig or tig next time.  Anyway I want to post a picture of my makeshift sander I made for my sawzall which worked great until the blade snapped.  Looks like I'll have to fabricate a piece of thicker, more durable steel to fit in the sawzall as the blade did.Well here it is... Attached ImagesLast edited by 66mynd; 03-08-2010 at 05:48 PM.
Reply:Yeah, that's the problem with TOOLS !  There is definitely a VOID when it comes to what you are looking for....  Lot's of attachments for all sizes of Chucks but no tools in the 500 to 5000 rpm range that support a chuck size over 1/8" !  This makes for a VERY difficult means to finish a job.  I see that you also attempted the 'ROTO-ZIP' tool as well...  Great tool but once again... WAY to many RPM's to make fine work possible.  If a person were to make a tool that accepted ALL Chuck sizes and could operate like a 'FOREDOM TOOL' that person would be a VERY, RICH individual...Ok, enough about that... have you tried the following;- Vibrating sanding tool like a Detail sander (Dremel Mult-max)?- A good Quality Needle Scaler ?- Longer, thinner grinding stones on your Dremel or Roto-Zip for initial material removal ?- Finally, and my personal favourite, Sleeveless Drum Sanding attachments?  They come in all sizes and allow you to use your own sanding paper, which is good for continuity.  I find that these work GREAT even in the 'tightest' of spaces.... I've even used them on electric (and some cordless) drills and they do a very nice job.Cheers,/J....Miller Diversion 165120 amp Buzz BoxVictor Oxy/Ace Oxy/LPGSmith "Little" Oxy/LPGHypertherm Powermax 30Lot's of Misc. tools n' crap....
Reply:BTW, GREAT job on the table !  Very Modern looking and pleasing to look at.As far as finishing is concerned,You can easily shoot a layer of Permalac, Acrylic sealant, Krylon or 'similar' over bare metal.  I do it all the time on 'Freshly Ground' Mild Steel.  I just make sure the whole thing is wiped down in Acetone First.  I also use non-powdered blue nitrate gloves to handle the piece when cleaning...Powder-Coating is REALLY nice too and super durable, but your options are 'limited' VS a good paint job from a decent Automotive paint shop.They can also shoot a really NICE 'KLEARKOTE" on there as well (without paint if you so choose)  Something to consider.Have you ever thought about Flame Painting the hard to reach places with a torch?  You can pull some INCREDIBLE colors out of those kinds of sections that are welded.  A good sealant lightly sprayed on will presevere 'much' of the color for years to come !Cheers,/J.../J....Miller Diversion 165120 amp Buzz BoxVictor Oxy/Ace Oxy/LPGSmith "Little" Oxy/LPGHypertherm Powermax 30Lot's of Misc. tools n' crap....
Reply:Originally Posted by jmanBTW, GREAT job on the table !  Very Modern looking and pleasing to look at.As far as finishing is concerned,You can easily shoot a layer of Permalac, Acrylic sealant, Krylon or 'similar' over bare metal.  I do it all the time on 'Freshly Ground' Mild Steel.  I just make sure the whole thing is wiped down in Acetone First.  I also use non-powdered blue nitrate gloves to handle the piece when cleaning...Powder-Coating is REALLY nice too and super durable, but your options are 'limited' VS a good paint job from a decent Automotive paint shop.They can also shoot a really NICE 'KLEARKOTE" on there as well (without paint if you so choose)  Something to consider.Have you ever thought about Flame Painting the hard to reach places with a torch?  You can pull some INCREDIBLE colors out of those kinds of sections that are welded.  A good sealant lightly sprayed on will presevere 'much' of the color for years to come !Cheers,/J.../J....
Reply:Another vote for cool table.What size angle grinder do you have?  If you have a 7 or nine inch it looks like it might get in there a bit closer.  Maybe the angles are not right for it to fit?Permalac is a good product, and you can get it in rattlecans.  I have some stuff that has been outside for a couple years and is not rusting.  I have a piece that I did not wipe down with acetone first and it is rusting at the edges.  The acetone helps pull the moisture off the piece.  Wipe down with acetone, then clear coat.  I know permalac can be purchased from sculptnouvea online. (I have no affiliation with them)I know you can get cartridge rolls or drum rolls in a number of different lengths and they should be able to get in there pretty good.Good luck and post more pics when it is done.
Reply:With clear powdercoat the steel will darken and I don't think your sand lines will show like you want. There is a powder that makes a nearly stainless looking finish. I think I have a picture, hold on. Attached Images
Reply:If your sand blast guy is good he can blast it from a slight angle and have a brushed look. I know mine can.
Reply:dremel..... dang my spelling sucks tonight.. lolif you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room..
Reply:hey Bob, do you have any info on the powder coat looks like stainless?  I want to look into it.  What do you think something like that costs... ballpark?  Thanks.
Reply:Originally Posted by 66myndThanks for all the ideas!You bring up many things I've never heard of.  First off I would like to know where to get a 'sleeveless drum sanding attatchment'.  Actually I'll check out home depot a little later on.  I think I found a picture of it i'll post at the bottom.  I was thinking needle scaler or sandblasting but as of now we are going for a directional 'brushed' look.  Is acetone just normal procedure in prepping steel for paint?  I'm looking up Klearkote and its an epoxy which comes in two parts... half gallon of resin and half of hardener.  Covers 26 square feet at 1/16 thick.  But I can't find anything on how to apply it.  I have never tried flame painting.  Sounds cool.  I don't know if the customer will go for it but I might try that out one day.Is this what your talking about?....
Reply:On really tight internal angles i have actually left the weld of if structural integrity allows it, a good prep and fit up of the other three sides has been plenty. Always if possible use a mig for a uniform fill of the joints it makes the finishing work so much quicker and a smoother finish. There is plenty of great Paint products out there to give you a desired finish and great for corner cover-upsWelder First Class
Reply:oh man that looks like a son of a bitch to get into and clean up. I think your most realistic option is to match the customers desired look is some sort or paint/coating. You would be amazed what a talented painter can do. Of course this depends on the customer.  Actually, if the customer is dead set on the brushed/clear coated mild steel you may lose less money just starting over. I would bet money I could cut that thing apart, prefinish the pieces, weld it all together with tig, hit it with a wire brush and be done before i could recreate the brushed look in those tight spots. Lose your mind trying to get the right finish successfully...Lose money paying someone to ninja paint it or lose time (money) redoing it. I guess it's your choice. I know thats not what you want to hear man. I've been in this spot before. Its does indeed suck. Sweeeeet design and good luck.Last edited by i4sillypwr; 03-09-2010 at 07:51 PM.Reason: I suk att speling...I've done a lot of Carbon steel tubing for decorative uses....first...weld any inside fillets with vert-down...gives a good concave bead....use a bit or side-to-side weave...then, for surface finish...flap wheels are the deal, not cheap, but will avoid digging and cutting into surface...start with 40 -60, then 100-, 120-150, 200...close to mirror finished look with 150-or 200...I have extensive experience in food processing, all stainless....and needs to have very fine brushed look or mirror finish....flap discs....120-150-200 are the deal there...keep moving around, or you'll hat and distirt the thin stuff..Klingspor has good wheels, good prices....  Also you can get cotton fabric wheels and various abrasive compounds at most any chrome plating  shop.Dougspair
Reply:...If you can get the customer to budge on the design....as small pice of material like this will make everything much easier.... Attached ImagesDougspair
Reply:Jman, just ordered two of those.  Seems cost effective cause its essentially a tool... all u gotta do is supply it with paper.  Shaun, I'm working on getting an external wire feeder for my xmt.  Thats the ticket.  Also I am getting some tig welding equipment and a few lessons later this week.  Hopefully that goes ok.  First time doing it.i4sillypwr, I refabbed my sawzall jiggy and its working good.  I can get 90% of the table sanded with that and my belt sander.  I'll have to use my dremel or something for the very inside corners.  But next time I definitely have to sand first.  And doug, the guy is pretty set on the design but good idea anyway.  As far as grit, I'm going with that 36 grit to get my rough then I'll finish with a 50 or 60.  He wants a dull finish.  I've got to get the directional brushed look so I'm limited to using my belt sander and my sawzal jig.  But I will try that sanding drum to really get within 1/2 of the inside corner.  I just want to make sure I get a good clear coat what ever it may be.Been working everyday at my day job.  Havn't been to the garage lately but I'll try to get some update pics asap.  Thanks guys.
Reply:I build this sort of stuff often but i would have never tried to get a brushed, dull, uniform look with a grinder of any kind. It will always look like a grinder. I've never been asked for a dull look but a bead blast finish is what i would have offered to the customer. Next, clean with acetone. Then clean with some wax/degreaser you buy from an automotive paint supply. Then find a guy on craigslist that does paint/body work on the side at a home garage and have him shoot the table with automotive clear coat. **** looks good when finished.as far as leveling, weld in a bung and thread in a leveler. you can buy a flange nut:http://www.allproducts.com/tool/qiao...nged_nut-l.jpgdrill a hole and drop the nut down in there then weld the flange to the surface or just build your own like this old one i did.
Reply:Hm I didn't know if you shoot clear powdercoat, it will make it darker or blue.  I've shot powdercoat on various colors and it didn't change the color at all, just made it shiny(it was a high gloss clearcoat)
Reply:Originally Posted by Jimmy_popI build this sort of stuff often but i would have never tried to get a brushed, dull, uniform look with a grinder of any kind. It will always look like a grinder. I've never been asked for a dull look but a bead blast finish is what i would have offered to the customer. Next, clean with acetone. Then clean with some wax/degreaser you buy from an automotive paint supply. Then find a guy on craigslist that does paint/body work on the side at a home garage and have him shoot the table with automotive clear coat. **** looks good when finished.as far as leveling, weld in a bung and thread in a leveler. you can buy a flange nut:http://www.allproducts.com/tool/qiao...nged_nut-l.jpgdrill a hole and drop the nut down in there then weld the flange to the surface or just build your own like this old one i did.
Reply:Originally Posted by 66myndI want to do the clear coat myself.  I'm hoping I can get my hands on some auto clear coat... besides a compressor and a spray attatchment what else do I need?  Or does it come in a spray can?  Nice weld by the way.  What do you think if I drill a hole and flush mount a nut and weld it in, grind it flat... essentially what you did but without a flange?
Reply:That is about the same as my body guy saying, " Besides a welder and grinder, what else do i need to build a coffee table?". Paint is part science and mostly skill. I would not suggest learning on a paying project. You could really, really create a big mess for yourself. Square tubing is really challenging to clear coat because of the angles, the fact you need to clear both the top and bottom and the constant tendency to have runs in the clear. If you've really bid this too low and must do the clear yourself, go to an auto parts store and buy the rattle can clear coat. DO NOT buy the cheap cans that have the aerosol tips like your deodorant, but instead the tips that spray a fine, straight line of clear. I attached a pic of the stuff Ive used with success. But still be prepared and tell your client that rust will still develop under the clear coat over time, even indoors. I'm moving to stainless steel in all my stuff as soon as I get good enough at TIG to avoid all the clear coat issues, I hate it!! (and I need to buy a TIG machine of my own)I have not found a way to flush mount a nut on the back side of enclosed tubing. I flush mount nuts all the time but it is done at the open end of a 45* cut during the build, not after the fact. Be sure to run a tap thru all these nuts after welding (and warping) or else you might get a bolt seized in the nut permanently or, best case scenario, just makes it tough to hand thread the bolt (leveling pad).  Attached Images
Reply:Just to throw in my two cents....once you have the piece sanded and read for paint, don't handle it with your bare hands!! The oil and acid from your skin will produce real nice rusty finger prints. Looks cool, but if it's not what your client wants....ugh! Wipe it down with acetone, then take a torch( i use a roofers tiger torch) and sweep it around the piece to get the surface moisture off( you'll see it form on the surface then evaporate) but don't stop in one place too long or you'll get color. Let it cool a bit but so it's still warm. Then paint. I only use Tremclad paint. Cheap clears suck and I found that Krylon isn't as tough. Tremclad comes in gloss and satin . Satin sounds like what your client wants. I found that clear powder coat when applied to metal that's been sanded will, in some circumstances, result in what I call "spider web rust" under the surface. Also if your powder coater handles the piece, you can get the above mentioned finger prints. Clear PC might work if you can be at the PC'er and do the above prep work and hag it on the rack yourself. I've done this type of work for the last twelve years and thousands of pieces, but different strokes for different folks. Love the piece!!!! Ones like it are the reason I'd like to get a TIG and get good. I really like your sawzall tool!! Great bit of thinking there!!! Don't forget to protect the threads when you weld on the feet. And just a thought, if it touches the floor at three points you won't need to level it. 200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Just wanted to take a couple of pictures before it gets sent out for clear coat.  I gave the customer a piece of scrap with the same finish and told him to find a pro that could give it a clear coat.  I said if they don't mention cleaning it in acetone first then they probably don't know what they're doing.  So he found an autobody guy that seems to be the one, he's ordering a special clear coat that is intended to bond with steel as opposed to the clear they usually use that goes on top of paint.  If I make more of these I will absolutely finish all of the pieces first and then weld them together!  Its still going to be tough getting into the tight spots but not nearly as time consuming.Also I wanted to ask... I can stand on the end of this table (150 lbs) it has a slight flex to it,  probably moves 1/8 when I do that.  Not that people are going to be standing on it but here's the thing:  I welded the whole table in 7018 stick and I know thats a good way to weld things that are subject to stresses and movement.  About a week ago I purchaced a 60 series wirefeeder and a tig setup.  After a week of tig I wouldn't do a project like this yet cause I still suck but if I were to mig the entire thing would there be any problem?  I mean its just a coffee table and no one would be sitting or standing on it but what if they were, how can you tell the limitations of mig? Attached ImagesLast edited by 66mynd; 03-31-2010 at 08:43 AM.
Reply:Oh I was going to say that I'm not welding the three adjustments underneath.  There were two reasons I was going to add them:  One was because the table is lower than your average coffee table.  To make one taller it would have to then be wider since changing the center piece's elevation changes the width also.  But since its 'modern' the customer wants it at the height it is.  The second reason was just as a saftey in case the floor it sets on has a slight grade... I wanted it so that a marble set on top wouldn't roll off.
Reply:A little off topic here but as soon as i saw your table this image of a commerative for a now defunt ww2 airfield flashed through my mind.But not to worry lots of things seem to flash there.Nice piece of work on that table.Felon Attached ImagesCaution lurker lives here" hmmm That is serious,pass the ganja and pick up a  24 of MGD"
Reply:turned out really nice. Mig welding would give you the same structural results as stick welding.You might drill a small hole on the underside for your painter to have a place to hang the frame for clear coating purposes.When you pick up the table from clear, inspect it for runs in the clear. Your painter can shave them with a razor blade then wet sand them down with some 1500 grit paper and then use some buffing compound to polish the clear back to high gloss.Congrats!joel
Reply:Just my nickles worth, but twelve years of building and designing home accessories and furniture, if there's one thing I've learned. You can't idiot proof anything.The term "reasonable expectation" is one of my fav's. If you can stand on it, you've built it way past the point of reasonable expectation. If some Floridian wants to use it as a spring board, not your problem. It's like when someone walks up to a CD rack and shoves it, then says it's tipsy. Next person that does it is going to get shoved to the floor, and have "reasonable expectation" explained to them.....sorry got off on a rant....touchy subject har har har! And no offense to Floridians in general, it's just a tourist industry worker joke here in Victoria.  Again, beauty table!BertLast edited by bert the welder; 03-31-2010 at 02:09 PM.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:cool table, think i would of used ss steel and tig welded it, check with an auto body shop mabye they can suggest a specialty tool, good luckmember of plumbers and pipefitters local 630 lincoln 130 inverter1965 red face sa 200
Reply:Thanks for all of the comments!  I've never really spent so much time trying to perfect something like this... my day job is working exclusively with structural steel as an ironworker.  But this is what I'm trying to get more into.  I bought my first house recently and I'm slowly turning my garage into a shop. I'm hoping that I make the right moves so in the future I can work for myself.  Originally Posted by jay34266cool table, think i would of used ss steel and tig welded it, check with an auto body shop mabye they can suggest a specialty tool, good luck
Reply:that is a cool table. as far as finishing did you ever think of getting it that line x spray on stuff like what you would get in your truck. or if you know someone to powder coat it that would be cool.Last edited by NOMADMAD; 03-31-2010 at 06:49 PM.If you like my stuff you can find me on Facebook.  https://www.facebook.com/theangryanv...ngryanvilforge
Reply:The Table turned out GREAT man...  Just Beautiful!As far as pricing is concerned....  There are a few 'Schools of Thought' on that one...Honestly, it depends on how much time it takes you to make such a table....  Although everyone would like to get paid 50.00 bucks and hour to do something like this, it usually doesn't work that way...  At least not at first, anyway...(Here's a few things that I learned from having my own business or two....)Remember that because you are just starting out, it's important that you don't OVERCHARGE and scare away potential clients.When I first started out, I actually 'Donated much of my labor to individuals just to get my Business Name and Product out there...  It worked EXTREMELY well!  Knowing that you gave them a GOOD DEAL, they have NO problems, spreading your name out to their Friends and family.  Once THAT PARTICULAR individual gives you some Decent referals, you throw them some 'Speaker Stands' or a good DISCOUNT on ANY other project they are looking at...  Believe me, you will make FAR, FAR, more money with REPEAT SALES this way and get your name out there at the same time.  Not only that, it KEEPS you BUSY MAKING THINGS you ENJOY doing, which is EXACTLY what you're trying to accomplish in the FIRST place,..Right ?One thing that proved VERY successful for me was to quote a customer "MY COST of MATERIALS" associated with the project!  I ONLY CHARGE THEM COST on MATERIALS,...PERIOD.  I THEN add my LABOUR in and put it on paper for the Customer to see.  They FREAKING LOVE IT as your CARDS are ALL on the table for them to 'see for themselves'...and they know EXACTLY what to EXPECT.  You INSTANTLY build TRUST, right from the GET-GO and even if they leave without a DEPOST, your QUOTATION will STILL be at the TOP of the pile because they will REMEMBER YOU as being HONEST with them....I've had Client's come back to me, EVEN when my Quotes were 'near' the MOST EXPENSIVE of the LOT!  In such cases, they always say the 'Same thing',... "I came back because I had a GOOD feeling, or FELT comfortable with You, or your Quotation."  It PAYS to be 'Honest, Open and above all... FRIENDLY' !!!  Cheers,/J...Last edited by jman; 03-31-2010 at 07:35 PM.Miller Diversion 165120 amp Buzz BoxVictor Oxy/Ace Oxy/LPGSmith "Little" Oxy/LPGHypertherm Powermax 30Lot's of Misc. tools n' crap....
Reply:66mynd,Regarding the 'Flame Painting' or 'Heat Treating'...I'll try and take some photos of some 'Mild Steel' that I 'Flame Painted' so that you can see the differences...   Using LF Bronze filler ROD (OXY/GAS) will put some BEAUTIFUL GOLD in the joints and they look AMAZING when Heated up... You can of course do this with 'Silicon Bronze' (TIG) as well, and produce a HUGE spectrum of colors....Planning on Doing any S.S. projects ?  Flame painting S.S. is 'CRAZY FUN' and you can achive some Purples, Oranges and Blues that you NEVER thought was possible...  It's a TON of FUN and can REALLY separate you from the 'Pack'... so-to-speak ! Cheers Dude,/J...Miller Diversion 165120 amp Buzz BoxVictor Oxy/Ace Oxy/LPGSmith "Little" Oxy/LPGHypertherm Powermax 30Lot's of Misc. tools n' crap....
Reply:Can't agree with JMAN more. Just make sure not to get caught in selling yourself short either though. This can be a &itch of a hole to dig back out of. I think your price was fare. This being based on what it looks like as an artistic object and not knowing your time spent on it. Just think that if you build another and one similar, that you learned a lot on this one and it will be a quicker build next time. And that means you make more per hour than on this one. Some stuff I make $15/hour on, other stuff I make $200/hour on. But that's sculpture for you. 200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Originally Posted by jmanThe Table turned out GREAT man...  Just Beautiful!As far as pricing is concerned....  There are a few 'Schools of Thought' on that one...Honestly, it depends on how much time it takes you to make such a table....  Although everyone would like to get paid 50.00 bucks and hour to do something like this, it usually doesn't work that way...  At least not at first, anyway...(Here's a few things that I learned from having my own business or two....)Remember that because you are just starting out, it's important that you don't OVERCHARGE and scare away potential clients.When I first started out, I actually 'Donated much of my labor to individuals just to get my Business Name and Product out there...  It worked EXTREMELY well!  Knowing that you gave them a GOOD DEAL, they have NO problems, spreading your name out to their Friends and family.  Once THAT PARTICULAR individual gives you some Decent referals, you throw them some 'Speaker Stands' or a good DISCOUNT on ANY other project they are looking at...  Believe me, you will make FAR, FAR, more money with REPEAT SALES this way and get your name out there at the same time.  Not only that, it KEEPS you BUSY MAKING THINGS you ENJOY doing, which is EXACTLY what you're trying to accomplish in the FIRST place,..Right ?One thing that proved VERY successful for me was to quote a customer "MY COST of MATERIALS" associated with the project!  I ONLY CHARGE THEM COST on MATERIALS,...PERIOD.  I THEN add my LABOUR in and put it on paper for the Customer to see.  They FREAKING LOVE IT as your CARDS are ALL on the table for them to 'see for themselves'...and they know EXACTLY what to EXPECT.  You INSTANTLY build TRUST, right from the GET-GO and even if they leave without a DEPOST, your QUOTATION will STILL be at the TOP of the pile because they will REMEMBER YOU as being HONEST with them....I've had Client's come back to me, EVEN when my Quotes were 'near' the MOST EXPENSIVE of the LOT!  In such cases, they always say the 'Same thing',... "I came back because I had a GOOD feeling, or FELT comfortable with You, or your Quotation."  It PAYS to be 'Honest, Open and above all... FRIENDLY' !!!  Cheers,/J...
Reply:Jman I really appreciate you taking the time to write that bit of advice.  I will absolutely implement that, it makes a lot of sense.  Since my regular job pays the bills I can afford to take a hit here and there as long as I have my materials covered.  Right now I just want to make sure that I can build a quality product and exceed expectations.  I'd like to see flame painting, I am starting to hear about it but never really looked into it.  I need to keep practicing my tig so I can be confident completing this in stainless.  My tig weld is near perfect on a flat lap joint but beyond that I've been running into problems with undercut and porosity.  I have most of my variables covered like clean steel, gas flow, tungsten stick out, correct sharpening etc...  Its torch movement and dipping of the rod that I have to get better at.  Anyway thanks everyone, i'll be sure to post pics of the final product
Reply:you could also use laminated glass the if it does break not near the messLincoln Pro Core 125Lincolin sp 100Miller Big 40Lincoln Idealarc SP250miller matic 212http://www.facebook.com/hdwelding?sk=wallwww.hdweldingbeds.com
Reply:That is friggen sick.  I like how it is different from all angles.  Sorta like a new table every time you look at it.
Reply:as mentioned,,doing a lot of the prep work first is necessary on some projects,, however, you might want to invest in a MULTIFUNCTION tool!  they do work wonders and come in handy for many projects!the little sanding attachmnets wouldd work in your case!