First attempt to make Tig Fillet weld Mild Steel

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I picked up some scrap 16g mild steel to practice on and cut up some 4 x 6 coupons to have a go at Tig welding a tee joined fillet.I set my New Dynasty 200dx using the default settings to Peak Amps 90HF start18cfh gas flow3/32 2% thoriated tungsen8sec post flow1/16" filler rodMy first attempt I "tried" to tack both ends of the vertical.  Found that difficult as I had trouble getting a small puddle or to fuse the pieces with out blowing out the end?Next was a learning curve getting the puddle right--(when I was done I noticed quite a bit of undercutting on the top of the vertical leg (I am guessing to much time spent in one place)  I went ahead and finished trying different technique "attempts"  Next I took it to the vice and tried to break it (plenty strong) fact is back side showed more then 100% confirming my technique sucked!I bent the plate back to shape and welded up the other side (a little better)The next setup  went much better (smaller legs), faster movement-consistant dipping and moving---I only went half way and was called into eat dinner and play with the Grandson (welding can wait)I would appreciate any feedback from the pros from the pictures posted here.I plan on doing some more tomorrow, Happy New Year (25 minutes to go here)Tim Attached ImagesA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:1) id cut the coupons 2x6 not 4x6 ,this will give you   more "edges" to practice fillets with..2)get comfortable before you start, actually practice moving your torch and filler along the length of the joint you are looking at welding..i find movement to be somethjing i never expected to be aq problem but am  amazed sometimes how i freeze and  cant move the torch where it needs to go..good luck and enjoy it..
Reply:I am no expert as I just bought my tig a couple months ago and started learning. I will be tig welding 16 gauge as well as I am getting into building motorcycle gas tanks. The first thing I did was changed my tungsten to 1/16 gold from a 3/32 red. This I found was a big improvement when tigging light sheet metal. I use a pedal and feel that it is very necessary as the sheet metal picks up heat as you are welding. With the pedal you can drop a few amps as needed to prevent blow through and wraping. I believe my max amps was set to 45 or 60. Can't remember right now but I will check later for you. 90 amps is to high. So far I have been able to do a very nice bead on 20 gauge which made my day. Here are my complete setting1/16 gold tungsten11 cfh gas flow60 amps max on the pedal1/16 filler# 6 cup with gas lense.8 sec post flow.The pictures I took on the mild steel didn't turn out, to much flash but here is a pic of my first beads on 16 gauge aluminum.Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:This thread might be helpful, working with 1/8" material there but amperage would be the only real difference. 90A is on the high side- you'll need to able move very quickly, dropping the max amperage to around 65 will improve pedal resolution. I'd be using a 1/16 tungsten personally but it's as much personal preference as anything (within reason)Undercut could be down to hanging in one spot too long/too many amps or poor torch and filler angles of attack. Mill scale/rust will make undercut difficult to eliminate- hard to tell what the base material was like to begin with as it's been brushed/cleaned after weldingJamlit, try lengthing your slope down time a bit. Adding an extra dab of filler when you start to back the amps off and/or keeping the tungsten moving in small circles will eliminate that pesky crater and pinhole at the end of the weldsHappy New year all
Reply:do you have pics of lap or butt welds? I think learning these joints first, and by just fusing them and trying to get the bead a consistent width and uniformity would help. clean your metal first, before welding.  Remember fillets usually take a little more heat too. I am kinda a beginner too, I like to set my heat on the low side, go full pedal and travel slow.make sure to get your gas flowing before you start the weld, and hold the torch on the weld a few seconds after you stop. It looks good though
Reply:To each his own...But I like heavier filler rod than what you're using.  I find that 3/32" or even 1/8" filler is easier to work with.  I don't have to push so much of the rod into the puddle in order to get the fill I want.  The heavier filler rod doesn't ball up quite as readily for me.  Your undercut could also be a factor of the arc length you're holding.  For that weld, the arc length should be 1/32" to 1/16" of an inch.  Any longer and the arc cone gets too wide.  This causes you to use more heat input than is required, and puts heat on the base metal, rather than just the puddle.  It's this unneccessary heat on that base metal that could explain your underfill/undercut on the top toe line of the  fillet welds you showed.Otherwise, looks like you're off to a good start.  Just keep practicin'.  Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Wow!I am forever gratefull for ALL of your input guys!  I  will incorporate most all of what you all say as the more I hear it the more sense it makes.  COULD a couple of you guys with cameras post a few photos of your tungsten grind?  and as well show it installed in the torch (I am still a bit confused on the amount of stick-out) NEVER HAD ANY FORMAL TIG GRINDING TRAINING  Also I only have a cheap (HF) medium stone in a 8" grinder that I have dedicated to the process.  Seems like with all the grinding I end up doing I would do good with a portable grinder like the Sharpie or that little pencil holder.  (I am not sure what angle to hold and how fine the stone should be as well as the flat on the end?  (Does seem that the 1/16" tungsten would be easier/quicker to grind) for use on 16g and lighter.I will go back out and give it a go in an hour or so and post the results.Thanks againPS: Jamlit,  I like you already as I am looking to do the same on my custom bikes (always had to hire out the metal work!)  YOUR ALUMINUM BEADS LOOK SWEET for just starting (you give me a lot of hope)Happy New Year,TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Eyeball engineer, and the rest of you fine Gentlemen,I will make some narrower coupons and have a go at the but and lap welds.  (on the but welds should I have any gap? filler or no? or some of each?Here a beginner question.  (with no formal training in tig) I am using the WP-17 air torch that came with the Dynasty contractor kit and it came with a tall back cap, 4 different size Nozzles, collet bodies and collets.I have read the manual and haven't found when I would be best served to to use the optional (don't have) "Lava nozzles""gas Lenses/Alumina nozzles", etc.I would be grateful of some basics on the subject (not a problem for me to "go get the right parts/accessories)I am sure glad I found this and other Welding community forumsTimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:In post #4 above, Hotrodder posted a link called thread, post #23 had a pic of ground tungstens. Read the whole thread, there's some good info there.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Tim, Basic info on TIG welding is best found on Miller's website.  Do a search there and you'll find a TIG handbook and all sorts of info for the beginner.  (too much to type in here)On Tungsten grinding... I grind by carefully holding the tungsten above the center of the wheel, at about a 45 degree downward angle.  Spin the tungsten between your thumb and forefinger.  Try to grind parallel to the tungsten.  Grinding marks perpendicular can cause all sorts of arc problems.  Some point up and into the wheel, but I feel this is very dangerous.  If the wheel grabs the tungsten in this position, it can easily push it through your hand.  You can also chuck the tungsten in a drill motor and spin it while grinding.  While a little cumbersome, it can make for very fast grinding of new tungstens, and a very uniform, smoothly finished taper.  This does get your hands away from the wheel, and it is also handy when field grinding on an angle grinder.Some also finish the tungsten on a 120 grit belt sander.  In the shop this is fine, but for field welding it's impractical.  Blunt the end of the tungsten slightly, as this will also help with creating a uniform arc.  This is true for your 200DX, regardless of the type of tungsten and the base metal.  Older TIG welders use a very blunt tip for welding aluminum, but with your inverter this is unecessary.Rule of thumb:  Use enough stickout from the collet that you can hold the torch at a 15-20 degree angle while maintaining the proper arc length.  Think ~1/4".  Your stickout will vary somewhat based on the type of joint; fillets require more stickout than outside corners.  A gas lense will allow for much greater stickout(~5/16-1/2") and generally provide better shielding gas coverage.  The trade off is in joint access and visibility of the weld puddle.Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:A dab will do,thanks for the time spent on the questions,  I do have the handbook saved and have read it, parts over and over.  Some have said to get a Silicone Carbine wheel (green wheel) What do you guys use in the shop? what grit?I have been using my cordless to chuck the tungsten and have kept the clear guard in place with a light on it, seems that it is hard to get a even grind all the way around (especially on a regrind)  I have a dremel with a diamond wheel in a mini drill press that I have been using to cut/score and break badly contaminated FU's I will likely order a 1/16" and 3/32" gas lense set up to try as well.I just got a lead today for a guy that is a tig welder, that I may be able to get to come over (trade for some mechanical work) or what ever.  I am a quick "visual" learner and I am confident that once I see some of these techniques done I can shorten the learning curve.My Golf pro once told me (a long time ago) that 'Practice for practice sake is worthless, Practice basics 'Properly' will perfect practice----or something like that?Didn't get much practice in today as I had to batten down the hatches as we are supposed to get another couple inches of rain and 70 mile an hour winds tonight!Wishing all of you a prosperous New Year!!TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:ultrachop- i played for  over 50 years..6 handicap... gave the game up this summer because i wanted to be in my shop playing with my new toys.. and until i learned that the head has to come through the ball on a line from 5 oclock to 11 oclock, itdidnt matter what  i prtacticed i was mediocre. point is as the pro was saying you gotta know what to practice...
Reply:Craig,  For sure that was a good thread with a lot of good information!  I also spent some review time in the Miller handbook, now it is back to the shop to practice.  My biggest challenge is understanding "what I am doing wrong" so that I can make the appropriate adjustments both to my technique and in some cases, machine/torch adjustments.I am still confused on what needs to be done to the MS plate (with what abrasive) to prepare it for proper tig weld?weldbead,As for sports I am one of those guys that has to work twice as hard to be average, I got to a 6 handicap once too, then they gave me a pencil without an eraser, only let me put 12 clubs in the bag and always had an eye on me when searching for my ball (LOL)  still play once in a while and resolve to have fun when I do!I am determined to finally get my shop organized, quality tools, and have fun making stuff!  I as well have a desire to teach youngsters how to do do basic mechanical tasks so they can do for themselves basic auto and home maintenance and have the "skill set" to help those that can't (elderly and single mom's etc.)2009 is going to be a great year!TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:I am still confused on what needs to be done to the MS plate (with what abrasive) to prepare it for proper tig weld?Do you know what mill scale is? It's a thin coating on mild steel. It's what gives mild steel its black color. It's too tough for a wire brush in a grinder. The tool I use at home is a flap disk on a 4 1/2" grinder because it doesn't nick or gouge the steel. Another is a round 5" air sander. In class everyone uses a 2" belt sander. Even the MIG guys clean their test pads until they are clear of mill scale.edit again:Looking at your pics, the edges have the mill scale removed, about 1/4". That black layer is what has to come off before welding. That's what I should have seen in the first place. Would have saved me a lot of typing. Once you've seen it, you know what to look for. It's on most of the steel that's readily available (hot rolled). Cold rolled doesn't have it, but I don't see any cr in my world. TIG will not weld over it properly. Your pics look like you welded over it. You have porosity in the bead itself and if you look at the toes of your weld (edges), they didn't wet in very well. That's exactly what happens if you don't remove the mill scale. My point is: find the power tool you like best and sand wherever you intend to put a bead. It doesn't have to be smooth, but it will be a bright, almost chrome, silver.When I was a noobie (no internet), I was knutz about tungsten sharpening. Don't get overly concerned about it, we aren't using robotics. If your arc is coming straight of the end of the tungsten, after the initial arc start frenzy, you're fine. Hotrodder said a short arc length is far more important than the grinding. I've said this before, don't know if you saw it: When the tungsten grinder in class went out of service, I used the general use bench grinders, either of the two belt sanders, my nearest 4 1/2" grinder and the 1" belt sander. If I could cut tungsten with a file, I'd use those too. My first attempt I "tried" to tack both ends of the vertical. Found that difficult as I had trouble getting a small puddle or to fuse the pieces with out blowing out the end?edit: don't put your tacks on the end edges, move to the fillet itself. This is one of the places that stickout is important. It should be long enough to 'almost' touch the root. Lean your cup against the base, position your tungsten very close to the corner, and pedal her up, slowly and smoothly. Watch two puddles form on both pieces simultaineously (sp?). A little more pedal and the puddles will merge on their own. It looks like it's melting back on the vertical piece, suddenly it will merge. Remember that the fillet is shallower than the root. If you have the tung too close, the fillet may also bridge to the tung. BTDT.CraigLast edited by Craig in Denver; 01-02-2009 at 04:02 PM.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Craig,I do know what mill scale is and you are right I didn't remove it far enough back on some welds (I thought I remember,without going back and searching that someone had said that I was grinding/sanding to much on the coupons and that it wasn't necessary)??  I have several air die grinders a couple of 4-1/2" disc sander several flap wheels and as well som Roloc sanding pads for the die grinders.  Could you be more specific as to the abrasive grit on the wheels/pads?  I know these questions sound rudimetry but (got to ask).  (I will use a flapdisc as I think the roughest sandpad I have is 100grit and it didn't seem to cut/only polish the scale?)As for the stickout (I haven't tried the basic test that on of the other posters suggeste (yet)  appears to be exactly as you described by placing the gas cup into the fillet on a 45 and extending the tungsten till it just barely clears. This seems to be pretty short stick-out?  Am I to assume when you are "WTC" in the fillet weld as you described earlier that you are maintaining a 10-20degree forward angle?  (this would increase the 'gap' from the tungsten to the root somewhat (correct?)I am about to go out and cut some coupons to 2 x 6 (as weldbead suggested) and set them up for fillet, and lap and give it a go.  I am going to use the settings that Jamit recommended making the change to 1/16" electrode, 1/16" filler and 60amps max, 11cfh on the GF and see how I do.  I will post some photos and wait for some feedback before anymore questions,(bear with me I am a little slow/old and dense at times)Thanks for the continued support!TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Originally Posted by UltrachopCraig,I do know what mill scale is.Good. Glad you didn't take offense, we have to cover the 'rudiments'. (I thought I remember,without going back and searching that someone had said that I was grinding/sanding to much on the coupons and that it wasn't necessary)??I saw a similar post, but I think it was talking about aluminum.Could you be more specific as to the abrasive grit on the wheels/pads?  I know these questions sound rudimetry but (got to ask). I think the roughest sandpad I have is 100grit and it didn't seem to cut/only polish the scale?)Easy to ask, less easy to answer. You're right, sometimes the abrasive won't cut the surface of scale and only polish it. This is  inconsistant between different batches of steel. You just have to pick a grit and try it. I'm amazed at the amount of pressure it takes to get through the surface of mill scale at times. It's somewhat like the aluminum oxide on aluminum, mill scale seems harder than the base metal.As for the stickout (I haven't tried the basic test that on of the other posters suggested (yet)  appears to be exactly as you described by placing the gas cup into the fillet on a 45 and extending the tungsten till it just barely clears. This seems to be pretty short stick-out?All you need to be able to see, is the very tip of the tungsten when welding; because everything happens past the tip. I always used over 1/4" SO, thinking I needed to see the tungsten's ground taper, but that isn't what I do now. It's very specific to the joint type and my line of sight. Don't sit square at your table, since you're a lefty (correct?), you should spend your time 'tipping' to the right. That should tick off your bad back.An important note: I have to extend my tungsten to tack my fillets. After they're tacked, I have to stop and shorten my tungsten before continuing. I described fillet specific stickout earlier when I said SO should be short enough that it can't touch the bead. Be careful here, that you don't end up with a long arc. This is two different SO lengths for one fillet. It's a crutch that I figured out for myself, but it works well for me; although painfully slow. I'm guessing almost 1/8" shorter for the weld than the tacks.OBTW: you can turn down your post flow to 6 seconds, from 8; that's a 25% savings. Especailly on the lower amps when doing 16ga. If that Dynasty has a digital postflow reading, I'd keep turning down until my tungsten starts to discolor. Only then is it too low. That discoloring is just about the same as gun bluing.Am I to assume when you are "WTC" in the fillet weld as you described earlier that you are maintaining a 10-20degree forward angle?  (this would increase the 'gap' from the tungsten to the root somewhat (correct?)I think I answered this above when I said that I have to reposition the tungsten after the tack welds. Yes, 10-20 degree push is ok, but this does little to increase the gap. If your filler starts sticking before you can get it to the puddle, steepen your angle. With too much angle, the heat runs out in front of the cup and is hot enough to pre melt a 1/16" filler. 3/32" filler isn't as bad. 1/16" aluminum filler is really bad, it will melt and drip off before it gets to the puddle.(bear with me I am a little slow/old and dense at times) Don't worry about it, it's the male DNA.Thanks for the continued support!Tim
Reply:i had it pointed to me  on this site that i was having a problem starting a tack puddle  because of too long an arc length ( was getting two puddles that didbt want to coalesce). while this is not necessarily a function of  stickout, too little stickout while cup-walking  it seems will cause a too-long arc.
Reply:Craig,Thanks for your detailed instructions, as well to everyone else!  I haven't been able to get out and practice as much as I would like, but today I did manage a few coupons.  IT TOOK ME LONGER TO CUT/SAND THE COUPONS THEN TO WELD THEM!I will try to explain my practice.I don't know exactly what size the material is? but the MS is aproximately 3/32"The Aluminum is aproximately the same size- (I couldn't find my caliper)I also did a but weld with filler on MS-  (guess I forgot to photo it?)I used 1/16" tungsen and 85 amps max on the MS (thanks for the tack tips)  and tip on using shorter arc!  Craig you are right about leaning to the Right to see (lefty)  I took the photos in B/W, found it didn't show the heating as well but sure shows the undercut shadows!I can tell I need a lot of practice but I am starting to get the hang of what it should look like under the hood!PHOTOS1) The First photo is of my poormans Belt sander (80grit used to remove mill scale)2) Second photo was my best fillet so far (still got a little undercutting of the vertical toe--more practice) doing 3 things at the same time!3) my second attempt to do a fillet weld and I tried turning the heat up and moving faster (not ready for that yet))  also tried a little 3/32 filler toward the end?4) tried a little 3/32 AL-butt weld with a little filler (hard to stay perfectly straight, work the pedal, dip the filler, and move----and breathe!5) another attempt at the AL fillet weld, little ragged but fun!  ( think I lcan get to like this Aluminum tigging)Thanks guys!---tomorrow I am going to try to get a couple of gas lenses for the WP-17 torch and some more steel to practice on.Tomorrow Night I find out if I get in the CC class?Tim Attached ImagesA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Originally Posted by UltrachopIT TOOK ME LONGER TO CUT/SAND THE COUPONS THEN TO WELD THEM!
Reply:Craig, and others,(how do you do that broken up (qoute insert) it sure helps organize the replies!  (I am better at mechanics then computers!! (age is telling)I went to the first night of class and it looked like I would be able to get in.  However after consideration I decided that I would not get enough tig time and or instructor time to make it worth my while (at this time) considering the 50mile RT and the $600 for the class.  Problem was I and one other were the only welders there and it was supposed to be and intermediate/Advanced class.  From the make up of the class it looked like I would be spending most of my firs 1/2 of the class assisting the instructor teach the kids how to cut/grind and prepare to weld MIG and then get to tig in the last couple of weeks.I am going to work at home and also hope to hire a personal tutor (production tig welder) I will maybe take the class next quarter, depending on my progress on my own.  I will post some future practice results,  Thanks to all of you for your help and encouragement!TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Finally got to the shop today and made a little more progress (practice)I set up a couple of scape aluminum 1/8" and tried another outside edge, worked better, now that I am starting to see what the "frequency" control on the dx really does. (now to get consistant) (Ist photo)Then I did some more practice on fillet welds and straight beads, adjusting the balance and frequency to see the affects.  (I won't post those as I know that I have a long ways to go to get consistant)Next step was to try welding a little thicker MS then before and trying a Gas lense setup.  I set up some 1/4" plate and did a lap fitment and welded both sides(2nd photo) was my first fillet, I used 3/32 2%thoriated, and #6 cup and 1/8" filler,  160amps.  Seemed I was sticking around in the puddle a little long in order to get the filler to flow and it was causing the edge to get hard to control (please comment)   Took a lot of torch movement to get the full height of the fillet, (some, good movement, some awkward),  I turned the plate over and turned up the amps to 175 and put on a gas lense (turned up the flow alittle, use same everyting else.  (seemed to work a little better??)  more consistent bead, but a lot more practice was evident)(4th photo) is the second side(5th photo) is looking down the second bead Thanks for any comments on my technique and progressTim(3rd photo)  same setup accept I used (3rd photo)  I turned it over and did Attached ImagesA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Oops,just noticed I stuck the Aluminum practice in my thread on mild steal!  Brain fart sorry!TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Change to the [ and ] instead of  { and } that I use below. All quotes start with {QUOTE=Craig in Denver;242002} and are ended with {/quote}  Don't forget the backslash.{QUOTE=Craig in Denver;242002}My comment.{/quote}Insert your comment here. Notice that you can type immediately after the {/quote}type here. The software will add an 'enter' after the quote.{QUOTE=Craig in Denver;242002} Copy and paste this in front of each section of a clipped quote. The software remembers the 'copy' and will repeat it anytime you click on the 'paste' icon. Then add {/quote}'s as needed. This:{QUOTE=Craig in Denver;242002}My comment.{/quote}Your commentWill appear as this:{QUOTE=Craig in Denver;242002}My comment{/quote}Your comment.When you're doing this, remember to click on 'preview post' during your reply. The site has a timer and it will dump your entire post. I believe it's 15 minutes and the preview resets the timer.Another thing for everyone, in the lower right corner of each post is a large " icon. This is what you use to get several member's quotes in one reply. On the last of several posts, click on the 'quote' button NOT the ".That photo on the magnet, is that mild steel? Yes, I know about magnets, but it looks like that piece would balance there if it is alum. The flash hides the color. Anyway the ends of the two welds are nice, probably one start and one end puddle.Last edited by Craig in Denver; 01-09-2009 at 06:41 PM.9-11-2001......We Will Never ForgetRetired desk jockey. Hobby weldor with a little training. Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz. Miller Syncrowave 250
Reply:Craig,Thanks for the technical information on how to do the quotes? (I will print out the instruction and practice) dang I think it will be easier to make a good Aluminum uphill, blind weld on .040 material that learn how to properly run this puter!!as for the plate on the magnet, it is the same piece that i previously photographed the fillet welds and labeled (just previous)I am slowly getting the hang of it.  Can you tell me if my peak amps. were about right for the 1/4' plate on the flat fillet?  I am thinking I will Monday get some 3/32" 1-1/2" Lanthanated tungsten, instead of using the 2% Thoriated stuff??? I am doing a lot of grinding and I am learning that it is not to smart to use the RA stuff if not necessary (your thoughts)I think tomorrow I will work some more on the 1/8" aluminum.  On another note: is there anyway to search for "Tig welders" in my area that are members of this site (might be interested in Tutoring a new Tigger??A rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Originally Posted by UltrachopCraig, Thanks for the technical information on how to do the quotes?Craig,I tried for a minute to figure out the quotes stuff, (I will work on it later)  As for the amps, I turned up the peak amps (it is a knob on the Dynasty) and digital readout. The second weld (back side) was at 175amps. I am finding out like you said, set the Amps high enough to get the puddle hot and then back off to what is comfortable, my coordination is getting better each time,  I am still struggling to get the filler feed and torch movement in sync.  So you clamp a strip of MS behind the corner of the AL???  What are you welding on now?  Any photos  of your setups would be helpful, seeings as I have never been taught!  I found it a littl like gymnastics to hold the non magnetic AL for setup.  Sure am getting a lot out of these forums however!  Not 10 minutes goes by without getting a question answered (by just reading through the posts of others,I will likely not get to weld tomorrow as my kids are down for my Grandsons 2nd birthday and I would be in deep cotton if I am in the shop "welding".Have a great weekend!!Tim Attached ImagesA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Originally Posted by UltrachopCraig,I tried for a minute to figure out the quotes stuff, (I will work on it later) Tim:All I'm going to do here is add my comment into your text, after clicking on the 'quote'. After typing each comment, I'll highlight it and color it. I won't use the brackets. [ ] I also click the 'Preview Post' frequently to see what the heck I just did.  As for the amps, I turned up the peak amps (it is a knob on the Dynasty) and digital readout.Thank you. Digital accuracy is pretty cool. When I was learning, I wrote down the settings of every successful weld. I still look at those notations. I have a binder (notebook) by the welder. BEWARE everyone, these are just an example. It's cold in the garage and I'm not going to look. Something like 1/8" mild steel = 100 amps, 1/8" alum = 125 amps, 16ga = 60 amps, etc. The second weld (back side) was at 175amps. I am finding out like you said, set the Amps high enough to get the puddle hot and then back off to what is comfortable,Thanks again (175 amps). It all becomes a moot point, close is good enough. The pedal is MAGIC.My coordination is getting better each time,  I am still struggling to get the filler feed and torch movement in sync.  It is truly a muscle memory issue. I haven't welded vertical up for a few weeks, Thursday I was shaking like h*ll. Torch foreward movement should be 'almost' linear; it's the constant. Maybe a little wiggle to tie in the toes.So you clamp a strip of MS behind the corner of the AL??? I've become ok with 1/8" alum clamped to 'whatever' to weld. Anything thinner, I 'really' want something clamped to the back, for both support (alum has no adhesion when molten) and as a heat sink.What are you welding on now?Metal.   I'm just doing mild steel, either 11ga or 16ga. Since I'm having trouble with the backside of either.Any photos of your setups would be helpful, seeings as I have never been taught!  I found it a little like gymnastics to hold the non magnetic AL for setup.  Lots of clamps. I bent my 6' alum ladder a while back. My ego said, hey, I can weld alum. there's no way I'm payin'  (probably $40) dollars for a new one. So, I clamped a nice piece of 1/4" angle steel to hold everything straight. As I was welding, I started thinking "how come something's wrong??" Well, the weight of the brace was more than the strength of the frikkin' ladder when hot!!!    A year later, I finished; saving myself $40. Sure am getting a lot out of these forums however!  Not 10 minutes goes by without getting a question answered (by just reading through the posts of others)That's fer dang sure. If there had been an internet 10 years ago, I'd know how to weld now. I will likely not get to weld tomorrow as my kids are down for my Grandsons 2nd birthday and I would be in deep cotton if I am in the shop "welding".Have a great weekend!!Tim
Reply:g mild steel, either 11ga or 16ga. Since I'm having trouble with the backside of either.Any photos of your setups would be helpful, seeings as I have never been taught! I found it a little like gymnastics to hold the non magnetic AL for setup.Lots of clamps. I bent my 6' alum ladder a while back. My ego said, hey, I can weld alum. there's no way I'm payin' (probably $40) dollars for a new one. So, I clamped a nice piece of 1/4" angle steel to hold everything straight. As I was welding, I started thinking "how come something's wrong??" Well, the weight of the brace was more than the strength of the frikkin' ladder when hot!!! A year later, I finished; saving myself $40.Sure am getting a lot out of these forums however! Not 10 minutes goes by without getting a question answered (by just reading through the posts of others)That's fer dang sure. If there had been an internet 10 years ago, I'd know how to weld now.A rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Craig,Ah, I think I see what you did,  now???  Sure am getting a lot out of these forums however! Not 10 minutes goes by without getting a question answered (by just reading through the posts of others)That's fer dang sure. If there had been an internet 10 years ago, I'd know how to weld now.[/quote I wish the internet was around 25 years ago! then at least by now I would be able to properly backup my data, reformat, reinstall all the programs, drivers and keep the garbage off my computer!Better go for now,  I will try and make some intelligent posts tomorrow!I need to digest what I have learned, I have been writing down the settings that have been working best and if is a confidence builder when I get one pass done and it looks like the same guy welded the whole thing!Party with the Grandson was a hoot!--it was fun to have my 3 kids there as well!TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Originally Posted by Ultrachop Craig, I wish the internet was around 25 years ago! then at least by now I would be able to properly backup my data, reformat, reinstall all the programs, drivers and keep the garbage off my computer!
Reply:tim   try this trickstart a project for the grandkids, when they come over  you say  come in the shop   and help me make this for you...
Reply:Weldbead,Good advice,  I will let you know about the outcome!  (might need you to clean out a corner in your shop for me!!  TimA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)
Reply:Here is some of my practice today.  I was trying to do the WTC on 16ga MS, I was getting better wetting with a little less heat, (later in the day I did a few more and they were better yet (forgot my camera, in the house!I am going to try some thin SS tomorrow as I need to finish my Workbench edge.(Looks like I resized the photo a little to much to show much detail) oops!Thanks,Tim Attached ImagesA rich man is not the one who has the most but instead one who needs theleast. Retired IUEC local 19AK Bush pilot,  Chaplain  CMA Chapt 26victor torchesMiller110v migDynasty 200dx (new in Dec 08)Hypertherm PM-45MM-252 (new 2/09)