Which machine to use??

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Hello Guys......Here is my question or delema if you prefer:Seemingly simply project.of building a few new tables for my garage shop. I will be using 3/4" plate for the table tops and 4" x 1/4 square tubing for the legs. So my plan was to build square upper frames with corners cut on 45's and a lower shelf of expanded metal on one, 1/4 plate on the other. So now that you have the idea here is my question.I have only used my TIG on 3/16 and 1/4 material. Obviously beautiful finished effect. I Thought though that I would use the MIG for the frame portion, though I do have all the time in the world (good Lord providing!) and have given serious thought to using the TIG as I can throw down some real pretty work with it........BUT......When I lay the table top on top of the frame (frame will sit  4" inside of table edge for clamping etc) what would be the best machine/method to use to secure it to the upper frame? Not too much stress as 3/4 will pretty much not mave anyway so I thought of using the TIG if possible. No matter which  machine used I will run beads +/- 4" long alternating sides of the 4" square tube frame. since it will be under the table and not really seen I could use stick or mig for ease/speed. I'm not really concerned about the appearance as if any of my buddies look under my tables, though I'll grind them clean, I keep a variety of forge hammers close by which could easily fall onto the foot of such critics with great ease....LOLI am an intermediate welder from my old Navy days through now but always want to do the best job possible and I;m really looking for your thoughts as I can use any of the machines for any part of this. The frame will get many coats of high quality machine grade paint as the final touch. Ok Gents.......How would you do it and why.....Brent Current line upAll Single Phase 220vLincoln Ideal Arc 250/250Lincoln Weldpak 175 MIG both gas and gasless 75/25Lincoln Invertec V250s TIG - ArgonVictor Pro tourch/cutter
Reply:Personally I would go with the stick welding option. That way you can crank up the amps and really burn it into the 3/4" top faster and better than the tig or mig. But that's just me. Make sure to post up pics as you go along with this build.
Reply:I would use the stick for speed and penetration the 175 mig is limited in both. Any way to flip table for weldingMillermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:I'd use stick, your Mig is a little on the light side. Regardless, it only needs a few stitches anywayLast edited by Canoe2fish; 05-05-2012 at 09:48 AM.Thermal Arc Fabricator 2101970 Lincoln RedfaceMiller 150 STLStill need a Syncrowave and a plasma and a milling machine and a lathe and a bigger shop and a....
Reply:I agree with all the above stick guys. I would also set legs on top of plate for ease of squaring . Get some sawhorses to set plate on and then use engine hoist to move it . If you don't have a engine hoist, it will give you a new toy to buy . You could always buy it for wife for mothers day.
Reply:+ for the stick. but i would not do 4" beads. i would do 1-2" max to control heat to reduce chance of warp. like you already said that plate isn't going to move around so why overkill the welds?225NT bobcatAEAD200LEScott 125mm175, mm252 w 30A, PT225mm211, TA 181iHyper Therm 380, cut master 529100X & XX, Digital Elite6 Victor setssmith little torch, meco midget kalamazoo band sawsteel max saw evoulution circular saw
Reply:Originally Posted by jbmprods+ for the stick. but i would not do 4" beads. i would do 1-2" max to control heat to reduce chance of warp. like you already said that plate isn't going to move around so why overkill the welds?
Reply:as SuperArc said. i would not be a bit ashamed to use my 175 on a welding table. it's a welding table, not a sets of ramps to park your truck on to work under.225NT bobcatAEAD200LEScott 125mm175, mm252 w 30A, PT225mm211, TA 181iHyper Therm 380, cut master 529100X & XX, Digital Elite6 Victor setssmith little torch, meco midget kalamazoo band sawsteel max saw evoulution circular saw
Reply:Personally I wouldnt weld it to the frame at all. I would use some countersunk 1/2 bolts and bolt it to the frame. Ideally if not yet built what I would do is build the framework about 1 1/2 shy of finished height, weld some 1 1/2 x 2 bar stock pads to the top of the framework and drill and tap those blocks to hold the top. This accomplishes several things.1) it lets you slide the leg of L style clamps under the edge of the top without needing to clamp the frame material 2) by positioning the pads  correctly you would be able to shim the table top flat if not already so...I use piano wire or heavy monofilament fishing line for straightening large assemblies. May sound a little crude but its supremely accurate over shorter distances. 3) being able to remove the top you could have it blanchard ground flat if ever the need arose for precision work4) makes the table easier to move if you change locations 5) if you must weld it there is no reason a series of good tack welds wont hold the table top in place just fine, there is no force at work trying to seperate the table top from the framework "Anybody can talk $h!t behind a monitor, I let the quality of my work speak for itself"Lincoln Square Wave 255 and 355 Tig Lincoln 255 Power-Mig w/ spool gun Koike 5 x 10 CNC plasma Hyd-Mech DM-10 bandsaw Ineco QB-76 NC tube bender
Reply:Originally Posted by CoupebuilderPersonally I wouldnt weld it to the frame at all. I would use some countersunk 1/2 bolts and bolt it to the frame. Ideally if not yet built what I would do is build the framework about 1 1/2 shy of finished height, weld some 1 1/2 x 2 bar stock pads to the top of the framework and drill and tap those blocks to hold the top. This accomplishes several things.1) it lets you slide the leg of L style clamps under the edge of the top without needing to clamp the frame material 2) by positioning the pads  correctly you would be able to shim the table top flat if not already so...I use piano wire or heavy monofilament fishing line for straightening large assemblies. May sound a little crude but its supremely accurate over shorter distances. 3) being able to remove the top you could have it blanchard ground flat if ever the need arose for precision work4) makes the table easier to move if you change locations 5) if you must weld it there is no reason a series of good tack welds wont hold the table top in place just fine, there is no force at work trying to seperate the table top from the framework
Reply:Originally Posted by SuperArcI like your idea for a professional fab shop.  However, for a simple garage-hobby-welder, that's a lot of work.  Lifting the table top and trying to line it up with tapped holes and just tapping and drilling those holes as described seems to be a PITA, just for a simple welding table.  Many people still use saw horses with a piece of plywood and a 1/8" piece of steel on top for simple welding.  Heck, instead of me rolling out my heavy duty table, I just use the "plywood"  (aka: red neck welding table)  for many projects because it's so light and serves one well.   If I dont feel like using a table, I use the concrete floor.  Again, not slamming your idea, just thinking what would be the easiest option for the OP to keep everything "simple."
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Reply:Originally Posted by LarryOThe op has not been back since he posted this thread.
Reply:Originally Posted by LarryOThe op has not been back since he posted this thread.
Reply:Originally Posted by LarryOThe op has not been back since he posted this thread.
Reply:I wished I'd bolted mine.  It's just a little table with 1/2" plate but it would have been SO much easier and would not have to deal with warpage and could reuse it easier if I wanted something larger / different.  These are the dues you pay, however, if like me you're just a dumba** Bed Frame Welder (TM) and why I read this forum a lot to help see what's coming at me just past the bright arc.  Doh!