couldn´t fire 7018 at AC

admin

i am new and new learned hot to fire an easy 6013 and it is ok(http://www.oerlikon.com.tr/pls/oerli...&product_id=63) but now i am trying to fire 7018(http://www.oerlikon.com.tr/pls/oerli...&product_id=70), and i can not fire it, it is an AC-DC stick, so what is the problem, i tried every current in the range but i couldn´t do. thanks.
Reply:What kind of machine are you using? What size rod are you using?? Sometimes 7018 has flux covering the end of the new rod and needs to struck hard to make contact with the metal part of the rod to the metal being welded. Check for a good ground connection, too. This thread tells you about Lincoln rod only, but it has sizes, polarity, amps and applications. http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=31171Do some research using the "Search" function above and there are several of these welding rod guides available here.Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:What Gizzard said.  I tap the end of the rod before putting it in the stinger if I see flux covering the tip.  Tap end of rod to remove flux to re-start too.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:If you have an entry level buzzbox it might not have enough arc voltage to run 7018. Buy a small box of 7018AC and see if you still have a problem. 7018AC will run at a lower voltage than 7018 and was made for entry level welders.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:I'm asuming your using an AC buzz box welder?There's regular 7018 (for DC) and 7018AC rods for AC welders.You need 7018AC rods for an AC buzz box welder.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:According to the spec sheet you linked to:The rod is run DCEP.  The machine switched to DC+.  It ought to run anywhere from 105-135amps nicely, depending on the thickness of the metal you're welding.Also try scratch starting along the seam you're welding.  It will sometimes work well.  It causes enough of an arc to melt the residual flux which has covered the end of the electrode.  Then bring it back to where you actually want to start welding.Scratching the tip on a good bastard file also will clear the crud off the end of the rod.  Make sure the file isn't grounded to the work piece.  It's a cumbersome way to do it, but it will at least give you a start until you pick up on a better way to start the arc.Sometimes if you bang the tip too hard on the steel a boatload of the flux coating comes off, and you get an unstable arc until the electrode burns down to the remaining flux coating.  I assume the shielding is affected too.You shouldn't have trouble with a fresh rod though.  The tip on a new rod is bare metalProblems with 7018 usually occur when restarting a rod that's partially consumed"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/