New work benches...

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I got a phone call from a buddy who wants a really sturdy work bench for his garage, and I've been thinking about replacing the wooden benches in my garage for a while. He was asking about something that he can use when he starts to build and weld in his garage. Here's what I'm thinking...(short time in Google SketchUp):2"x2"x"0.125" tubing, with a 1/2" plate top (it is braced the same as the lower sheft, about every third). Going to see what a bulk shipment of steel is going to cost as I'm thinking about doing three for myself (to span across the garage), and one for the buddy. The base is actually only 32" deep, with the top being 36" deep so there is a great lip to clamp stuff there (maybe I'll knock the top down to only 32" deep). The bottom shelf is 20" deep, so that should be more than enough to put almost anything on there. I'll probably do a 1" threaded foot on each corner for adjustment, but not too sure yet. Thinking about two 8' wide and one 6' wide, as the garage is 22' wide inside wall-to-wall. What do you think? Or would would 0.100" tube be more than enough...heck, what about 1.5" square tube to cut down on the weight a bit?Last edited by yyc_tbird_sc; 12-17-2010 at 09:56 PM.-Millermatic 211, Powermax 380, and way too many other tools to list....-Unofficial, professsional, garage tinkerer...
Reply:Looks good. The only thing I'd think about is if you can work it so you can get the most of full sheets. A 20" shelf in expanded, gets you 2 shelves and 8" of scrap. If you can work it so you can keep the expanded piece at 16" and make up the rest with frame, you can get 3 shelves from the sheet. Same with the top. Lots of times when I build wooden workbenches for clients I like to make the tops 30-32" so I can use the remainder as a 18-16" shelf below. Some times it can pay to get odd sized sheets like 5' wide or 10' long, even if they run a bit more, if you can reduce or eliminate the waste by maximizing the pieces..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:with half inch plate, I don't think cutting weight is going to be much of an issue anymore. build it stout and sturdy and be done with itmy 1/2" plate table is 32"x5' and weighs close to 300 lbs. its frame is built out of 4x4 angle though
Reply:Originally Posted by phyisisist777with half inch plate, I don't think cutting weight is going to be much of an issue anymore. build it stout and sturdy and be done with itmy 1/2" plate table is 32"x5' and weighs close to 300 lbs. its frame is built out of 4x4 angle though
Reply:Looks good.You've braced the rear, but most of the force is typically on the front. I don't know the answer, but maybe a third leg in front or a couple small braces will keep that honking big 1/2" top on shape
Reply:my 2 cents is I think that I would beef up the front edge a bit. perhaps 4 inch flatbar on edge for the stiffness and support. But as I say to my wife "what do I know I'm just a man"Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:Consider a lip on the sides as well, It's nice when clamping things square.
Reply:I like angle iron along the front from leg to leg to hang clamps and grinders.UA Local 598
Reply:1/2" plate top...add a center leg as suggested elsewhere and beef up the top rail or you'll have a brokeback bench before you know it.
Reply:On the other hand, I don't think you need the diagonals on the sides at all.  As others say, a third leg in the front, with Y-shaped gussets/supports = 'strong like bull."Also, think about continuing the overlap along the sides -- for easier clamping and also the ground clamp.  And if you do two or three pieces of plate on top, with a 1-1/2" or so gap between then, your clamping options will be much better.Jack OlsenMy garage website
Reply:Thanks for the suggestions guys. I've been asked to have an open front, so I'm trying not to put braces in there (yet). I still may put a diagonal brace from the front edge back to the shelf and one more leg.After talking with the buddy, we've decided to do 1.5"x1.5"x0.125" tubing (little bit easier on the credit cards), with a 1.5"x3"x0.125" piece across the front for strength, and a 3/8" top (don't have a fork lift to move these things). The work benches are only going to be 6' wide too....he's only got room for 6', and I'll put three of them together across the garage and have about 4' of room at the one end for the tool box or a cabinet. The front edge will be gusseted to stop the 4" from ever bending, either like I've pictured it, or I'll run a piece plate vertically down the front edge (heck, maybe both). I've also made the top a total of 32" deep, the bottom shelf 16" deep (thanks for the wastage suggestion). The feet will still be made out of 1" fine thread bolts for level adjustability. I'm not going to overhang the sides, as they will be butted up together to make an entire counter that won't move around, however I may do that on my buddy's. The back edge also over hangs about 1" now, so I can notch it if need be for airlines or power if I need to run them behind the workbence.As a side thought though....I'm always getting my tools full of grinding dust (it's almost like they're all magnetic). I usually just tap them on the bench vise, and it all falls off....but should I do anything special to be sure that this doesn't happen with the workbench? Maybe ground it electrically? This wouldn't be hard to do, as I'm only about 3' below the panel.Revision 2:-Millermatic 211, Powermax 380, and way too many other tools to list....-Unofficial, professsional, garage tinkerer...
Reply:think you should overhang the edges, you can still butt the tables together and theoptions remain open if you move stuff around..
Reply:Your gussets along the front with 3/8" plate top may be setting yourself up for a warped top surface.
Reply:They're only 3/16" or 1/4", but I do see what you mean....I'd just hate to bend that 4" overhang. Maybe the final won't overhang that much.....maybe more along the 2" mark. I'm not sure if these are going to happen right away, as the garage is not heated (yet), and working on a really cold steel bench is not all that appealing. It'll either happen when the garge gets a heater (other than the propane bullet heater), or when it starts to get warmer.-Millermatic 211, Powermax 380, and way too many other tools to list....-Unofficial, professsional, garage tinkerer...
Reply:In my opinion you are wasting some $ going with 1/2" for that type of workbench.1/8" Tubing and 3/8" Top.Plan from Miller with a change or twohttp://www.millerwelds.com/interests...welding-table/I built mine 36"x72"  with the Top being 2 pieces of 36"x36"  a wee bit easier to handle than the single sheet of 36"x72"No Diagonal braces on the sideUnless you put wheels on these things you won't be moving them muchLast edited by Broccoli1; 12-19-2010 at 03:35 PM.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge