The best way to strengthen a splice......

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I'm beginning work on a shop cabinet....... mostly because I'm tired of the offerings from Lowes and Home Depot.......I am making it 6' X 2' X 5'.......I have designed the base according to the longest lengths I can get home in my car....... which means I have some three foot sections that I need to connect in the middle using a cross brace as the connection point. This probably means that will be my week point. I don't know........In the below picture, where the arrow is...... how would I brace that weld area to make it stronger? Just weld a plate on the outside that overlaps several inches on each side of each 3 foot section?What I'm asking may not even make sense...........I'll be putting casters on each corner...... which makes me think the middle will sag eventually...... if I don't brace it somehow......Thoughts? Attached ImagesPrecision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:I would butt splice the perimeter tubes and cut the middle piece to the id and weld it in the middle of the butt splice. Also, I would miter the corners instead of the butt joint. Done in this way I wouldn't do anything further to strengthen it. Once you build the remainder of the cabinet on top of it it will be plenty strong (assuming you are using a decent cross sectional size of material (not 3/4" square for instance).
Reply:Good idea walker.........I was thinking of doing miters on the corners as well..... the only thing holding me back is with the ends open I can have access to the bolts on the casters in the event I need to tighten them at a later date........I do indeed like the idea of the butt weld with the cross member on the inside for the middle piece.........Thanks.......Precision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:[QUOTE=Fexal;1555551]Good idea walker.........I was thinking of doing miters on the corners as well..... the only thing holding me back is with the ends open I can have access to the bolts on the casters in the event I need to tighten them at a later date..You can tack the casters on and don't worry. We do this all the time for our large tool box dollies. if casters have a larger footprint than your base, cut some plate the correct size and weld to frame.
Reply:Originally Posted by FexalI am making it 6' X 2' X 5'.......I have designed the base according to the longest lengths I can get home in my car....... which means I have some three foot sections that I need to connect in the middle using a cross brace as the connection point. Thoughts?
Reply:Weld the joints as per your drawing, the floor stitched on all four sides & center brace stiched on both sides on the bottom  side should give it all the support needed.Last edited by Old Skool; 09-09-2012 at 09:49 AM.
Reply:See if your steel yard will deliver. Even if it cost a couple bucks it may be cheaper than their cutting charge in the end.
Reply:Weld up your parts as per your picture then on the bottom grind the welds flat and add a 1/4" gusset in the middle of the tube..Seeing as you are adding casters you can use the added room to your advantage..Done right this 'aint bending anywhere!...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Don't think of it as a splice, it is the corner of  2 squares that share the same side. If you prep and weld it properly you will be fine. If you feel the need do what Zap suggested and throw a worry gusset in there.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:I think you're underestimating the strength of your welds. I don't see a need for reinforcement. Unless you plan on loading a could hundred pounds on the shelf and then jumping on it that is.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Looks to be a job.   https://www.weldingweb.com/images/attach/png.gif  I have moved 2# 2x4x16 steel on the pothole streets of Butte under the vehicle. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterWeld up your parts as per your picture then on the bottom grind the welds flat and add a 1/4" gusset in the middle of the tube..Seeing as you are adding casters you can use the added room to your advantage..Done right this 'aint bending anywhere!...zap!
Reply:Originally Posted by T E BLooks to be a job.   https://www.weldingweb.com/images/attach/png.gif  I have moved 2# 2x4x16 steel on the pothole streets of Butte under the vehicle.
Reply:Long before i know of the welders web. i have no pic. i used two ratchet straps to hold the steel up.
Reply:seems like you will have a natural gusset if you weld the base to the cabinet  Also,  can't you bring the casters inward a little, so the weight is distributed onto the wheels.  Ironically, why should it be your weak point?  Theoretically, shouldn't it be the stronger???
Reply:Thanks all......I think once I finish it out it should act like a steel bridge with added strength coming from the rest of the structure. I do like Zap's idea of the gusset. I have almost six inches under the frame due to casters so plenty of room if needed.When I finished the bottom I had the urge to put it on the ground to be sure it didn't wobble, and then the urge to jump up and down on the middle........ I don't know why....... I just couldn't resist.......Not a wobble or wiggle.......NOTE: My instructor.... when I told him I forgot it was 1/8" when I tried 7018 smiled and then set me to work on a test piece with 3/32 6010 at 75 amps........... so I could see that it can be done...... but only with the right electrode.........Precision TIG 185 and MP 210Bobcat 225NTCutmaster 42O/A tanks.... 2 Argon tanks...... 2 C25 TanksFacebook...... F2 Metal WorksETSY....... https://www.etsy.com/shop/F2MetalWorksF2MetalWorks.com....... http://www.f2metalworks.com/
Reply:If I had a vehicle that could only accept 3' lengths of tubing, I would join two 3' lengths in line with the centerline of the central crossmember (I'm bad at expressing a visual image in text, but center your splice on the centerline of your middle piece!).  For the four corners of the outside perimemeter, I would miter them into one another for aesthetic reasons.  Before welding anything, I would get everything fit together first; given the size of the base, it would save a lot of hastle.  Also, depending on what this thing will hold, the outer sides should support the weight of the material or whatnot, although a gusset, as Zap suggested placed over the center splice, will Bismarck that badboy!  Last edited by mb_welder; 09-11-2012 at 06:50 AM.
Reply:How many tons do you need to place on that 6' span? And what's the size of your material? Sure, there are lots of ways to make it stronger, but most people build things many times as strong as they need to be, wasting $$$ on time and materials. Before I spent a lot of $$$ on additional time and material to make it "stronger," I would make sure there was a reason to do so. Because it may be plenty strong already. 36ksi is stronger than you probably think.
Reply:I want to know why you guys are driving smart cars. I've never owned a vehicle that I couldn't find a way to transport at least 6' lenghts of materials in. Hint: the passenger's seat reclines for a reason.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:When I was a kid, Dad and three of us kids would hop in the '67 VW bug and go camping.  Held all our gear and a 17 foot canoe. On short trips, I think it held 8 without any gear."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumWhen I was a kid, Dad and three of us kids would hop in the '67 VW bug and go camping.  Held all our gear and a 17 foot canoe. On short trips, I think it held 8 without any gear.
Reply:Originally Posted by kidtigger24What version of AutoCAD are you using there? Sorry, had to do it.kidtigger24
Reply:You could fishplate it like they do car frames. Then you don't loose the ground clearance. (makes it easier to sweep under it without moving it) honestly though, I doubt it's much of an issue. The size of tubing your using and the structure you will add on top of it should be plenty strong. If you want some fish plates let me know. And I can cut and ship them to you in a day or so.Offering CNC Plasma cutting and welding projects.Follow me on facebook https://www.facebook.com/nobigdeal.fabSupport those that support WW.
Reply:I would butt splice the perimeter tubes and cut the middle piece to the id and weld it in the middle of the butt splice.
Reply:Like you discovered... no need... the material is plenty rigid.Another option that may have worked would be to cut a square to cap the center tube effectively stiffening the center tube. In any case... it would make it look cleaner.Of course I'd personally leave it open an use the tube to store anything that was about 2' long.  Attached Images