tried 7014 yesterday!

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Wow!  Thanks guys.  I have never used 7014 before, but so many people on here are talking about it, I just had to try it.  Picked up a pound for about $4 to burn up.  It's smooth, starts easy, slag comes of very easy! I used 3/32 at about 70 amps on some 1/4 scrap and it did really well.  Any more tips on the 7014?  Was my amperage good?  it was on AC.  I was able to join 1/2 T fillet with 3 passes with the 3/32.  Penetration was less than I expected, but it burned slow.I usually use 6013 on nearly everything, but now I have a new favorite.  Sometimes I use 6011, but it makes ugly beads and slag is thin, but hard to knock off.
Reply:I am glad you liked it. Do you have DC?You got pics?DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Yeah, I have a 130 DC Inverter from HF.  I haven't had a chance to try that yet.  I would post pics, but my camera is not good at close ups at all.  See "Check my coupon" in this catagory and you'll see how bad my camera is at close ups.
Reply:I got a $5 pack of those 1/16" 7014s from HF last year, just to see what they are like. I could not believe how easy they were to weld with on thin sheet. The only thing I don't like about em, is they put down so much metal and they do have a lot of slag. I tell people if you can't stick weld with 7014, you can't stick weld. I run em about 60 amps on DC on the Thunderbolt.  People who had given up on stick that I recommended them to said it gave them new hope with stick.  I think it is s a good confidence building rod for new welders.Last edited by smyrna5; 04-02-2009 at 05:43 PM.Lincoln 175HD Miller AC/DC ThunderboltSmith AW1, Dillion (Henrob) Mark III, & Smith LittleTorch
Reply:Smyrna5, that was my exact thinking!  After so long with the mig, it fun getting back to the sticks again!
Reply:Try it electrode negative.  It runs better for me.  The bible recommends it too.David Real world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:If you like 7014, try 7024!
Reply:Originally Posted by pulserIf you like 7014, try 7024!
Reply:im findin the 7014 slag more difficult to remove ethan 7018, not as bad as 6010... also i get a colder lumpy-looking bead compared tio 7018..
Reply:Weldbead,7014 should be very smooth and the in many cases the slag is "self lifting", that is the slag lifts itself off the bead as you weld.  This rod is a "drag" rod, it is meant to be run with the electrode coating lightly touching the weld joint while pulling the electrode along at about a 10 degree angle off vertical.  If you don't drag, and you hold a longer arc, you'll get a rough, uncontrollable puddle and slag entrapment.  Take a look at the end of the electrode after running an arc, the wire is recessed up inside the electrode coating, this recess is the perfect arc length that allows the drag technique.  If the bead looks cold and lumpy, and the slag is difficult to remove, you may not have enough amperage, or arc length too long, or travel speed to fast.7014 and 7024 both have iron powder added to the electrode coating, that is why the coating is thicker on 7014 and very thick on 7024.  The iron powder is added to increase the deposition rate, the lbs/hr you can lay down.  Both are drag rods, great for super smooth flat position butts and fillets, and fillets in the horizontal position.  Too fluid for "out of position" welding.
Reply:Decided to dig up an older thread rather than create my own.Just a couple of pics of 7014 rod, slag and beads...Runs nice and smooth, easy slag removal, all position including down.3.2mm / 1/8 rod, DC+, 135amps, arc control 0 Attached Images
Reply:I'm gonna have to check it out sometime too, mostly 6011 and 7018 here.Rob H.
Reply:My old WW2 era DC arc welder loves 7014.It's known as farmers rod or jet rod.7014 is an all position rod, 7024 is flat position only. Both rods are very similar in how they run.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720