Best Hinging Method

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Hey guys, I've got a set of gates to build for a guy for the entry to his farm. The gate opening is about 5 metres wide and the gates will be about 2 metres tall... Each gate will weigh approx 200 kilos each.... I was wondering if you guys could give me some advice on what sorts of hinge systems to use/fabricate...........
Reply:For my bigger gates like you have built, I use 7" block hinges that have the grease fitting and a ball bearing that is on top of the hinge pin. They cost around $50 here but are well worth it.
Reply:ditto,
Reply:depends on how spiffy you want to make it.  The above suggestions are good if you want a really nice set of hinges.  On the other hand if you just want something that works don't mind a lot of slop in the hinge and is really cheap .... big nuts and rebar work.
Reply:Good hinges are a big part of the equation, but so are solid rigid posts. Most of the issues I find with large heavy doors and gates aren't related to the hinges, but to the fact that the member the hinges are mounted to is flexing and bowing..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thank guys!!!! Been a good help....... That's the biggest issue I'm worried about DSW, I know I can make good enough hinges but the flex is the thing that worries me most......... What is the "General rule of thumb" when concreting posts in??? Big hole- Lots of concrete.... OR little hole- less concrete??? I wanna make the post as rigid as possible!!!
Reply:Footing should at least be below the frost line. Where I live that's 3', but it varies depending on where you live. It's been a long time since I had to figure out footings for moment column in school.  Bigger is almost always better if you want to err on the side of caution. We usually had a 3' bucket on the machine, so by default our footings usually ended up at least 3'x3' 1' thick minimum ( 3' below grade) for structural columns many times unless we were using 18" or 24" sona tube for light poles. A smooth footing also resists frost better than a rough one, so if you go light, definitely go with a smooth sided form like a sona tube.We'd almost never mix our own crete. We'd simply order a truck. By the time you added in the time to go get bagged goods, the gas for the trip, the time in labor to mix our own, it was seldom worth the hassle. Granted we almost always needed at least 1-2 yards minimum anyways because we seldom did just one or two posts unless we had to pop a section of fence out to get drive in access for our concrete work. Just to give you an idea, I just bought 10 yards the other day and it cost me $220 for the flat rate truck charge and $80 a yard. I had really good crete ordered for flat work, so crete for footings would run a bit less. I don't use the cheapest guys out there either for flat work. I'd rather spend the extra money for crete that's easy to work with than save a few bucks.I'd be more concerned that the posts themselves were stiff enough. In this larger diameter would be better than smaller thicker tube. Small 2" pipe will easily bend if you get enough weight out far enough, especially with a tall gate. Bigger tube like 4" would hold up better. and if it's tied into a fence to give more lateral support, that would be even better..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:DSW you have been a fantastic help!!! Much appreciated.....
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW. . . Small 2" pipe will easily bend if you get enough weight out far enough, especially with a tall gate. Bigger tube like 4" would hold up better. and if it's tied into a fence to give more lateral support, that would be even better.