Cab mount repairs

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This is a continuation of the overall repairs I'm doing to the truck found HEREThe rear cab mounts were really bad, but not quite to the point of "falling through the frame" (real close though). I used a 3" hole saw to cut out the patches from 3/16" plate. Ideally a 3.5" would have been better but 3" was all I had. I welded the patches in before cutting out the 1.75" inner hole because I could more accurately align the centers using the small 1/4" hole left by the hole saw. The rubber mounts in the picture are from a "donor truck". The originals were badly beaten from the rusted out holes. Attached Images
Reply:Looks good!Takes me back to my 73 Toyota land cruiser. I bought it off the showroom floor for $3770 and drove it until I could see the road running by underneath me. Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:Originally Posted by Robert HallLooks good!Takes me back to my 73 Toyota land cruiser. I bought it off the showroom floor for $3770 and drove it until I could see the road running by underneath me.
Reply:Another nice save on the project. MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Originally Posted by umahunterlol yabba daba doo !!!!
Reply:Yea them TOY's really rot out, My 72 ran like a top but the frame was completely rotted in half, i couldn't open and close the front doors anymore, Had to put her down...
Reply:A sad day, I'm sure.Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:Well, the cross rail sure had to get repaired for  the cab mounts.  But you could (and should) have done a little better on your starts-n-stops on the weld.See the marked up copy of your pic?  The red shows a pretty big miss on overlapping the start-stop to ensure the weld goes all the way around.  The orange shows much smaller 'misses' but still they are 'misses'.Will it affect the structure of your repair?  Most likely not.  But it still could have been done at least a bit 'better'.  Also, you have a lap joint on your repair, right?  The patch/repair plate is sitting on TOP of the cross rail?If so, did you weld up the BOTTOM lap joint?  Or are  you going to seal that seam in some other way?Because otherwise, you set up a trap point for corrosion between your repair and the cross rail.   Attached Images  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:I do appreciate the critiques  The Patch does fully lay over the top, so no chance of falling through (except when the rust takes over again).It's true, I do need to "backup" on my starts a little more before moving forward. I always feel like I'm building a "buldge" on the start of an overlap of the previous bead and hastily start going forward.The underside is not accesible due to the cross frame construction so it will get "smeared" with seam sealer and paint.
Reply:Honestly, for what it is, the weld is fine!