Camper rear cargo rack

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A few design questions, hopefully simple. I'm trying to make a rack, hopefully with existing materials as this is the budget build.Here is the camper/rear in question when picked upa little later in lifeThe 1976 square bumper is shot, when I say shot I mean the entire bottom is missing due to spending most of it's life packed with grit and a sewer hose.So job one will be to remove that, I can prob manage that with a dead blow hammer and a pocket knife.My plan is to build a rack for the back to carry some basic lightweight supplies since I only have one outdoor compartment(chocks, jacks, some pads, etc). The most weight I would have would be 2 adult bikes on it.I plan on it being 7ft wide, the camper itself is 92" so that will pull it in a little for clearance. I'm thinking 24" deep, at most 30", but I don't really see the need for that much.If I go 24 I can"repurpose" the materials from 2 hitch haulers I already have(the angle and the mesh)once I cut the bumper off I will have open access to the frame(best pics I have of that right now are the ones above)The frame is a c-channel design, just over 4" inside the C. I have some 2x4 c-channel that was used as the rails from a 2 bike motorcycle trailer(when I say rails I mean the bike tires sat on the channel) It appears to be just a tad under 1/4 thick.My thinking is that I bolt this to the frame, I can get about 14" of face to face contact ][ on each side with the frame itself and then extend it out the needed length. Then add in another piece as the end/bumper portion(this would be welded/gusseted) and of course a brace side to side right under the rear of the trailer and several from front to back as well to brace and assist in supporting the load.Does anyone foresee any issues with this? I think the rack itself will weigh more than any loads I would be putting on it, and I would think that 4 beefy bolts on each side should provide a fair amount of holding power, while still allowing it to be removable if need be. Sorry for being long winded, I didn't want to leave any details out.EDIT:my main concern would be the c-channel vs using box for the main mount. but the same metal did hold a 400lb bike for 2k milesLast edited by bcrewcaptain; 02-21-2011 at 10:47 AM.
Reply:Make sure you check the frame rails really good to make sure they are worthy of modification.  I had a 1970 that looked just like yours and I was going to do the same thing.  When I got under there to look around and start planning, I realized that the frame was so rusted that there was no way I could safely add or modify anything.  I actually sold the camper to someone with intentions of using the camper part without the frame/running gear.  I think they were going to transplant it onto a big flatbed goose neck.
Reply:surprisingly enough, other than some slight surface rust, the frame is solid. I think every other part of the camper however had water damage. I have very little $$ in this thing, but I don't want to talk about how many hundred hours have been invested replacing rood joists, ceiling panels, walls/braces, flooring, cabinets, etc. I keep telling myself that either way I'm far ahead of the game having a camper I customized for my family vs spending 20K on one I'd have to redo anyway.The one thing I can't make however is more compartments, so that's why I need this rack. Wife doesn't like the idea of the poop hauler being kept on the bed
Reply:I built one that attached to the main frame rather than the tube bumper. It was still connected to the bumper for stability but the strength came from the main frame.Sorry no photo but you may want to consider this if you plan on having a substantial load.ScottWelders360New guy.
Reply:Good resource for this would be http://www.rv.net/ . Truck camper folks build on rear folding and non-folding decks and I'm sure there will be lots in the 5th wheel, and trailer sections of the forum too. Lots of folks bolt to the frame, bumper mounts, hitch receiver, etc. You can run chain/cable down to the outside corner of the deck for more support stability. Don't forget to account for entry/exit angles ( enter/exit'ing a parking lot. Steep drop angle+ long , low deck= big mess! )Last edited by bert the welder; 02-21-2011 at 01:59 PM.200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Originally Posted by bert the welderGood resource for this would be http://www.rv.net/ . Truck camper folks build on rear folding and non-folding decks and I'm sure there will be lots in the 5th wheel, and trailer sections of the forum too. Lots of folks bolt to the frame, bumper mounts, hitch receiver, etc. You can run chain/cable down to the outside corner of the deck for more support stability. Don't forget to account for entry/exit angles ( enter/exit'ing a parking lot. Steep drop angle+ long , low deck= big mess! )
Reply:I think your intended design will be strong enough if it is well made.The concerns I see are:1.  Possible obstruction of the lights.2.  Even though you don't plan to put anything heavy there, it is the worst place to put anything as far as maintaining good tongue weight. You need to be very careful with that. Real crappy handling consequences.3. Will it drag when you cross a big dip? 4. Can't see cargo.I just stuff my bikes inside the camper for the ride...
Reply:Originally Posted by daddyI think your intended design will be strong enough if it is well made.The concerns I see are:1.  Possible obstruction of the lights.2.  Even though you don't plan to put anything heavy there, it is the worst place to put anything as far as maintaining good tongue weight. You need to be very careful with that. Real crappy handling consequences.3. Will it drag when you cross a big dip? 4. Can't see cargo.I just stuff my bikes inside the camper for the ride...
Reply:Originally Posted by bcrewcaptainI've been on there for a while...too much of a cross section of opinions on thereIT WON'T WORK(but I've never tried)IT'll WORK GREAT(but i never tried)that's why I figured I'd come here to those that know a little more about the actual design than anything else.
Reply:Your proposal is acceptable. It may need a pair of skid wheels at the end of the frame rails for protection, but they also serve as audible ground detectors.  It sounds like a nice, easy project, have fun. Just another day at the office......City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Originally Posted by tanglediver It may need a pair of skid wheels at the end of the frame rails for protection, but they also serve as audible ground detectors.