pipe fence questions

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HI I'm new to the forum and wandering how deep to set the post runners and corner poost. And proper welding rod I have a miller bobcat 250 have done some practice welds with 6011 and 6013. The 6011 welds look bad to me but have a lot more penetration than my 6013 welds i,m gonna use drill stem and casing for the material trying to learn about arc welding seems little harder than using mig on race car chassis.
Reply:For our barb wire fences we set the pipe corner posts and pipe H braces @ 5' deep, but they get pulled on pretty hard stretching the wire. On a straight up pipe fence I would think 3' and maybe add some concrete or atleast tamp them in good and tight. I preferr 6011 rods.
Reply:I agree with Saltbranch.  That is what we do with our conerposts as well.Also, if you are learning with 6011 or 6013 on a fence, I would go with 6011 and forget the looks of the bead.  I did the same thing and had seven kinds of hell getting the 6013 to hold right.  The 6011 worked every time.If it is a pipe fence it is going to be there a while - overbuild it so you dont have to jack with it ever again.'Xcept paint.  OH, and CAP those tops, plug the bottoms with cement.Spend the money on concrete in the holes.  Pipes last longer - experience talking there...  Put the concrete in, pick up the pipe, set it back in so tha some goes into the pipe to seal it.
Reply:Post at least 3' deep with concrete.  Don't put concrete all the way to the top, leave it down about 8".  If you put concrete to the top the post has a tendency to pop out of the ground after a few years due to heaving.  Use the 6011 rod. Attached Images
Reply:kcir > nice looking t post there, very clean... I set mine in at 10' centers and 3' deep  using a 8' post so we had about 60" above ground;  then we added  2-3 60# bags of premix, mixed but kinda' dry in the 7" augered  holes.  Corners the same but set closer for the H.  About 6" down from the top rail I strung the top wire thru a small welded on piece of pipe so it supported better and sagged less.  Bottom got a piece of barbed wire to hook the fence to.  I used my MIG, 'cus I didn't know any better   I've since moved on to 6010-11 for the next batch. I like RedBrand no climb but in Texas they got another brand which is excellent too, can't recall the name?I don't know if it matters? but I put an expansion relief in the top rail about every 100 feet. Sleeved and then slid a 1 foot piece in and left about 1/2" slack.  When it's 115 out I can barely rotate that sleeve, in winter it spins easily.  I have been told that if U don't do that here in the heat it puts a lot of pressure on the corners and eventually bends things a bit? Mine is 3 years old, no bends and straight Lot of work but very keen when it's done. Attached ImagesLincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:We try to get at least 2' but it don't always happen. The rock is that hard. The concrete setting up against the rock is usually so solid that they never move again.Hey Papa Lion, instead of the little pipe pieces to run your wire through you might want to try buying 1/2" lock washers. I use 1/8 6010 for the pipe and 3/32 7018 for the lock washers. It looks good and I've never had one come loose. It's really cheap too.
Reply:Thx to everybody for the info so far it is greatly appreciated I,d like to make the entrance to my place look nice thefirst try and not have to redo it
Reply:I also wanted to ask what size rods 1/8. Or the next size bigger can't remember the fractional size.  I hope I didn't pick to big a project for my first arc welding adventure.  I,m way better as a chevy tech.
Reply:Corners and H's should be at least 4ft in the ground, 5ft would be better if you are pulling wire. The expansion joint papalion mentioned wouldn't hurt for your toprail. If you are going to use sucker rod for fill you will definately need expansion joints every 100' of rod. Sucker rod typically is in 25' lengths so it's easy to just cut the ends off and fit your joint in, we use 3/4" black pipe and weld them in with 7018. Also if you are going to use the sucker rod fill, dont weld them to the posts,they will eventually break. Use fence clips to attach the sucker rod to the posts and run the rod thru the clips.All of our posts are driven by hydraulic driver, so we have no need for concrete. We use Lincoln 6010 5p+ 1/8" for all of our fence jobs. It's easy to use and worth the extra $ when you run into pipe thats magnatized or has alot of scale, grease, etc. The 6011 would be the better choice over 6013 if you dont want to spend the $ for the 6010. Good luck with your project and be sure to post up some pics.'04 Trailblazer 301GHobart 135Victor O/A
Reply:Big washers, duh... nah I'd rarther spend two hours on the chop saw, going deaf and have a bunch of hot little pieces of pipe  to juggle.  Washers, sheesh what ya' learn on this site.  Thanks much for that tip, there is about another 1000 feet for me still to finish as it cools this fall, add the  top rail and fence;  a box of big washers  will be on the truck To paint or not to paint...? I got the Rustoleum red oxide on and decided that was just aok, looks even and EZ to touch up, we get very little rain here and it has been a good choice figuring I got better things to do than go repaint a WHITE fence. iroc post some pics as U go, we love pics around here, hope it turns out great.Last edited by PapaLion; 09-25-2010 at 06:30 AM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:I didn't put this fence in, but it's mine now.  It's about 16 years old, we've lived here about 4.  The only problems at this point is that it is rusting out where the top rails were joined by welding.  No other issues so far.The original owner had approximately 50 acres fenced in, but they would only sell us 17 acres with the house... we're still hoping to get the rest at some point in the future.The posts are buried 3 ft deep with concrete, 10 feet apart.Pics below show some of the fence line and a corner.  All of the corners are full pipe rails - and they are not 90 degree corners.  The main fence is pipe top rail and posts with rubber coated steel cable "railings". Attached Images
Reply:Slagburn:All my sucker rods were welded to the pipe. Done before I got the place. Some have broken already. What are you using for fence clips as I have more fencing to do and some to fix.Do you have a picture of the clips that you can post.Love this site you learn more things from it all the time.....Glenn.Sign on East Texas payphone: Calls to God 40 cents......it's a local call...
Reply:If you're doing pipe corners with barbed wire, remember the horizontal length of the pipe corner is as important as the depth of the pipe in the ground.  If you make the corners too short it gives good leverage on prying the corner pole straight up.  I like 10 feet or so and a diagonal brace.Yes, I like to overbuild stuff., but I don't have to go back and rebuild something after the first time Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:StampederIf you dont want to replace the sucker rods that are broken, you can cut a length of 3/4 black pipe and insert the rods, basically making a sleeve. The "sleeve" could be welded to the post, more or less making an expansion joint. Just remember to cut the rods so theres a gap to allow them to float.I would only do this if you have a single break per rod, any more than that and its easier and cheaper to just replace the rod.As for the clips, some are made from flat strap, others from round stock. I mostly use clips made from 5/16" round, although occasionally I'll use ones made from 1/4" round depending on the application. The round stock welds nice and leaves smooth edges, flat strap will have sharp edges and corners...... Big no no for horse applications. They also work great for barbed wire.Do a google search for "weld on fence clip" and see what you like best.'04 Trailblazer 301GHobart 135Victor O/A
Reply:i've been cutting the pipe today i will see if i can get some pictures tomorrow and post from my phone
Reply:OFG that is one more pretty fence, good color and the entrance is very "Texas" to your credit... even Yankees get it right now and then   Makes mine look piddilyCorners? I did it as in the pic, don't know if that is zactlee what AndyA was going toward or not, I just copied one I saw.  I added those Galvanized 3" caps recently, it is 3" pipe at the corners so they fit inside pretty good after I hack the bottom of the cap up some.. If ? they stay and don't pop out I'll do the rest.The jars hanging on the fence are a county eradication program for the no-see-ums, seems to be getting alot better. Attached ImagesLast edited by PapaLion; 09-26-2010 at 12:34 PM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Post depth is very area specific. No way will you dig more than a foot here. After that, its solid rock. Drills, jackhammer and explosives are the only way to make holes deeper than a foot here. Like Bob, 2' is the best we get most times. Suckers never move, either.QamuIs Heg qaq law' lorvIs yInqaq puS
Reply:PapaLion - I just inherited the fence and now it's mine to maintain, but I do think the original owner did things right.  I don't have any pictures where I was taking a pic of the fence specifically, just ones that the fence happens to be in.  As for the corners, it looks like yours (I think), they are 2 45's instead of a 90. Attached Images
Reply:DDA52, there are some parts of Texas that just won't cooperate with a fella huh   glad to see you've figured out how to live with it and make a good fence anyways.  I'd rather be building fence in Texas than anywhere, if I weren't so entrenched and deep roots here I'd come home in a wink.    OFG   very keen, UR right, they did a first class job, and yes,  you got very few mountains?  nope, none, not even a mole hill...  your grass is excellent, a sign of a good cowboy is he can grow grass.  You'll need a lot of chompers to keep that mowed.enjoyLast edited by PapaLion; 09-27-2010 at 07:10 AM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Originally Posted by PapaLionCorners? I did it as in the pic, don't know if that is zactlee what AndyA was going toward or not, I just copied one I saw.
Reply:Andy you are correct.  I just spent two weekends busting through rock with bars, chisels and sledge hammers to put pipe in the ground.  That was a living nightmare.  But once we threw the concrete in, our 7" hole turned into a 1' PLUS hole, depending on how big the rocks were that got sealed onto the concrete.  Some we actually punched through the center of the rock with a jackhammer, so who knows how big those things are.I now define misery as a circa mid 1800's property line that was fenced with BIG rocks above and below ground by some long-dead old timer.  Dynamite would have been faster, but I figure between me and him we can get another 100 yrs out of it...
Reply:Originally Posted by PapaLionBig washers, duh... nah I'd rarther spend two hours on the chop saw, going deaf and have a bunch of hot little pieces of pipe  to juggle.  Washers, sheesh what ya' learn on this site.  Thanks much for that tip, there is about another 1000 feet for me still to finish as it cools this fall, add the  top rail and fence;  a box of big washers  will be on the truck
Reply:Originally Posted by LinepipeI now define misery as a circa mid 1800's property line that was fenced with BIG rocks above and below ground by some long-dead old timer.  Dynamite would have been faster, but I figure between me and him we can get another 100 yrs out of it...
Reply:I build alot of pipe fence.  I dont use concrete at all. Drive them straight into the ground. if it a coner post need to be around 3-4ft deep in and the straight stretch need to be 2-3 ft. I normaly buil the fence 6 n half ft tall.  We handle alot of wild cattle and horses and nver had a problem.Of course I don't look busy.....I did it right the first time!
Reply:Thanks for all info it is going slowly but surely have got some pictures but haven't had time to post my dirt and my auger don't get along to wellMiller Bobcat 250 Cornwell Box Lot of Snap On ToolsWHERE DO YOU GUYS GET THE MONEY TO PUT UP THOSE FANCY FENCES???????"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:My girlfriend gave me the money, but please, don't ever tell my sweet bride of 42 years... you'll see when and if U get hitched. Truth: There was a cattle feed milling and mixing set up out 30 miles East of me, they tore it down, torched off all the posts.  all above ground no rust  I happened by and got about 1500 feet in various lengths for .65 a foot and lots of sweat loading it home.  then I got the top rail as irrigation pipe irregulars or used, all  2 3/8" thinner wall and not spendy. Every once in awhile a seam weld is faulty, U cut that out and keep going.  Now the wire, that spendy Red Brand...we better not go there today.enjoy,Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammWHERE DO YOU GUYS GET THE MONEY TO PUT UP THOSE FANCY FENCES???????
Reply:Samm now zactlee what would U do with a fancy fence if ya' had one?   Just be in your way me thinks.OFG ya' got it right, much easier, 'cept for buckaroos.The local fence company quoted me $29/foot new materials my GERMAN gotta be buff and perfect specs,  done and done,  and all I do is point where I want it, 'cept no gates.  Let's see over 4 acres on 3 sides x $29/foot... hmmm Samm UR right? how zactlee does one afford these fences?Last edited by PapaLion; 10-11-2010 at 10:20 AM.Lincoln Power MIG 215Lincoln WeldPak 3200HDLincon ProCut 25Lincoln WeldanPower 225 AC/DCIf all else fails... buy more tools
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