Update on my cement mixer

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Well here's a update on the problems I've been having with my cement mixer.  About 2 months ago I went to pour the footing for my shop extension (for the storage of machines I have in storage and was supposed to of gotten out last summer). The first pic is one of a few I was going to take during the pour to satisfy some questions that had been asked here. However right after that shot was taken the gear box stripped out. Thus started a adventure in frustration.   Since I didn't have another gearbox like that one (and it would cost to much to either repair or replace it) I decided to go with a chain reduction. I'd kicked that option around when I was building it (I was worried that the gearbox wouldn't hold up to the torque even then). I first dug up all the sprockets I had laying around as well as some that I'd dug up when building the mixer. Going through what I had I decided to go with the #50 chain sprocket I'd found during the build of the mixer for the first reduction. A small sprocket for the motor wouldn't be to expensive to mate to that. After looking at my selection of bigger sprockets I decided to go with the double row I had laying around. I figured I would bore it to fit the shaft and if for some reason I needed the extra strength I could upgrade to the double row chain. That turned out to be a good idea. My first try was with the single row sprocket I had used for the motor drive when I was using the gearbox. I no more than got some sand and gravel in the bucket than I snapped the single row #60 chain. At that point I'd wished that I'd gone ahead and ordered the double row sprocket and chain the first time. I had to wait for some money to come in before making the order but I eventually got it in and had time to install it.  The next try started out fairly well. I got the first scoop in and had it mixing. I added a little more in order to bring it up to where I would normally run it. Then tried mixing again. This time there was a sharp snap. Investigation showed that the sprocket I had bought to go on the motor had snapped in half. Thus ensued another wait for a order to have a slightly bigger sprocket with thicker walls come in.   That brings us to today. After going on a field job this morning I decided to try and get the mixer going. I put the new sprocket on and tightened the chains. I went and got a small scoop and mixed with no problem. I then added some more and that's when the double row chain started jumping. My mounts for the jack shaft had flexed along with the adjustment at the bearings slipping made the chain to loose. Back to the shop to brace up the mount and add jack screws to the bearings so I could keep everything tight. Next try with the to big a scoop of mix in the bucket showed that there was still a little to much flexing in the mount. So while I was looking at the flexing to determine just where I needed to add bracing I had this pop and the chain started moving again. A closer look showed that the shaft wasn't turning. Get off the tractor to look and I found that the tapered bushing I'd put in the big sprocket had sheared it's bolts and busted apart.   Thus I dug up another tapered bushing, bored it to fit, drilled it so I could put 6 bolts in it, and then drilled and tapped the sprocket for the 6 bolts. When I went back I cleaned all traces of anti seize off the shaft and sprocket, I also made the key a tapered driving fit into the bushing. I then tightened the bushing till I couldn't tighten it any more. Just for good measure I tacked the key to the shaft so it couldn't twist (but I could still grind it off if I needed to). I then added some more bracing to the mount.   Final test shows that the mixer is turning a little faster than I'd like. It's also a little under powered in that the motor will stop turning if I do what I would call a large batch (about 1/2 yard). It will however mix 1/3 yard even through the tough semi wet stage. There's not much flexing in the mount and the chain has stayed reasonably tight so I think I've finally got it where I can use it again. Attached ImagesMillermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:You do realize you need a guard over that chain assy..So there is your next project!You don't want to get all tangled up in there.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:How you mix can be as important as how much you mix. I've had to mix by "hand" quite a bit. (usually in 5 gal buckets with a HD 1/2" drill and a paddle mixer)  Figure out your mix, water, sand stone and cement and try to keep the ratio as exact as possible using a small batch. When working with small batches or in a mixer we usually fill buckets rather than use shovel scoops. It makes it a bit easier to measure. Put in say 2/3rd to 3/4 of the water to start and then add your sand, stone and cement equally. If it sloshes too much, do this in 2 steps using 1/3 the water and 1/4 the dry goods. Most of the stone usually going in late in the mix process. The idea is to keep the mix as wet as possible, until you add the last of the dry goods and then add just a bit of water or dry to get the consistancy you need. This reduces the effort required to get the mix moving and helps avoid dry areas that stick to the mixer.What you made is more of a "mortar" mixer than a concrete mixer that usually has a drum with fins. We often will use the mortar mixer to mix crete to fill the cells of a block wall rather than order a small load of premix or drag the drum mixer that doesn't mix mortar as well. Eventually you will find the stone is hard on the rubber fins, but thats probably not a huge issue with how little you will run this most likely..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterYou do realize you need a guard over that chain assy..So there is your next project!You don't want to get all tangled up in there.....zap!
Reply:Irish, you mentioned wiping off the antiseize. I worked w/ taper loks for lots of yrs and they do not like any type of lube on the shaft or the taper. You maybe already know this, just thought I'd pass it along.   That is a neat lookin' job. When you build the guard, make the top solid so's to keep sand and cement off the chains. The chains and the sprockets will  last a lot longer.                                               MikeLast edited by mla2ofus; 03-12-2011 at 10:33 PM.Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Originally Posted by mla2ofusIrish, you mentioned wiping off the antiseize. I worked w/ taper loks for lots of yrs and they do not like any type of lube on the shaft or the taper. You maybe already know this, just thought I'd pass it along.   That is a neat lookin' job. When you build the guard, make the top solid so's to keep sand and cement off the chains. The chains and the sprockets will  last a lot longer.                                               Mike
Reply:My apologies, Irish!!  I should have remembered yes it is OK to lube or antiseize the bolts. I always did because those 1/4 & 5/16 bolts twist off very easy when they get rustbound.                                            MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Originally Posted by mla2ofusMy apologies, Irish!!  I should have remembered yes it is OK to lube or antiseize the bolts. I always did because those 1/4 & 5/16 bolts twist off very easy when they get rustbound.                                            Mike