TIG settings for Aluminum on new inverter welder.

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I'm not too familiar with the parameters on welding machines and for TIG aluminium specifically. I've welded Aluminium on a different machine, years ago which had an option for AC Balance (I believe) but I don't see this on my machine which is a Riland Super 160p inverter. Any quick knowledge as to what some of these setting will do and how they might affect the weld. I know I should be on AC for Aluminium I inlcuded the picture of the various dials and options below, and I know the best way is to keep practising on different settings but I feel like I can use perhaps some basic outline of the settings as a starting point as I messed around with them with a bit of variation in results but still nothing close to a weld. I dont know what is making a difference weather I crank one all the way to the left or right (except for the base amps). Where would one set these dials if they were to take a guess starting to weld 1/8 Aluminum square tubing with only 2 options of using either 3/8", 2%thoriated or 3/16" 2% Ceriated tungsten. I believe the square pulse/straight line switch s for a pulsing option.Any advice large or small would be appreciated. I need to make a decent weld soon. Ive managed before on different machinery in school over 10 years ago and Im doing steel fine and dandy but need some assistance getting back onto the ALThanks for any advice in advanceMichael Attached ImagesLast edited by azitizz; 02-24-2010 at 10:18 PM.Reason: adding pictures
Reply:If you have an amptrol (remote) the up-slope &down-slope are insignificant. I would guess that base amps would be the background amperage when using pulse, and the pulse current is what it will peak at during the pulse. Pulse width being the amount of time the pulses lasts within a pulse period, & pulse freq. being how many times per min. it pulses. Just my initial guess, I've never used an inverter, just square-wave."SOUTHPAW" A wise person learns from another persons mistakes;A smart person learns from their own mistakes;But, a stupid person.............never learns.
Reply:Originally Posted by papabearIf you have an amptrol (remote) the up-slope &down-slope are insignificant. I would guess that base amps would be the background amperage when using pulse, and the pulse current is what it will peak at during the pulse. Pulse width being the amount of time the pulses lasts within a pulse period, & pulse freq. being how many times per min. it pulses. Just my initial guess, I've never used an inverter, just square-wave.
Reply:Originally Posted by azitizz Does a square wave usually have anything to do with pulsing? And any Idea on what "Clear Width" would do?And by a "Remote" do you mean a pedal switch?
Reply:Yeh remote is foot pedal or hand dial on the gun,clean width is probably the cleaning action.The more cleaning the less penetration usually.Theres no substitute for just spending a couple of hrs making small adjustments and writing it down.Pulse is usefull on thin sheet to keep overall heat down.
Reply:Originally Posted by papabearAlso, you might want to turn up your post flow to at least 5 sec.
Reply:Papabear nailed the knob labels, and the clean is the cleaning action.  The higher the action the more that the oxide will be broken up and the quicker you can form a good puddle.  The higher  the cleaning action the more heat that is put into the electrode which will melt that off pretty quick.  I am no welder but I have been reading up on this stuff for months and think I have the concept until I get a torch in my hand then I realize how humbling it really is.  Or how much I really suck.  I would practice with that 3/16 and get some smaller stuff if you want to do small stuff.  I am waning to do really small stuff but can't get the oxide broken up without melting the electrode off. The flat line and the square wave is the pulse mode.  Watch the welding tips and tricks video posted over on the everlast section.  He explains a bunch with only a few videos.
Reply:Okay, I see a LOT of upslope, and still too much downslope for my taste. Try setting the upslope around 1/4 second. you want the pedal to act like a real time rheostat. Too slow of a puddle forming can lead to a weak puddle with the heat getting lost int he material. As for downslope, the same thing. You in general want your aluminum to cool quickly by the pedal, and not linger. A lingering, slow cooling aluminum puddle will want to collapse.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloOkay, I see a LOT of upslope, and still too much downslope for my taste. Try setting the upslope around 1/4 second. you want the pedal to act like a real time rheostat. Too slow of a puddle forming can lead to a weak puddle with the heat getting lost int he material. As for downslope, the same thing. You in general want your aluminum to cool quickly by the pedal, and not linger. A lingering, slow cooling aluminum puddle will want to collapse.
Reply:My machine doesn't have up-slope, just down-slope. I keep my down-slope @ 0, I control how fast the heat is reduced with the amp-trol
Reply:Tung3/32 or 1/8"Filler3/32 or 1/8"Set machine to AC__________________Amperage= Min120-Max160 you'll need to adjust,160 may be too much depending on JointCleaning Width= 50 adjust Cleaning action as needed but 50 puts you in the Middle.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Thanks all, I managed to figure it out with the advice you gave. Still some mysteries in the starting of the arc but once its going its making a nice puddle. Ready to build!Thanks
Reply:Originally Posted by azitizzWill that make much of a difference in getting a decent puddle? I thought the post flow was simply to protect the weld after the arc is shut off from contamination.(providing you keep the torch over top of the weld) I have it set to 3 for steel and it seems to be working ok. Im trying to save on Argon too. But if you think it would make a difference during the actual weld then perhaps Id better put it to 5 for AL?
Reply:Originally Posted by azitizzPapabear just said the upslope and downslope make no difference with a foot pedal. Is that so then?
Reply:finally.....a good friggin' explanation......i can understand that.        thermal arc 252i  -  millermatic 350P -   miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs  -   Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:Originally Posted by RojodiabloHis point was with a hand control amptrol dial it won't make much difference. It does, but it's not as significant because your finger won't run the control as quickly as the foot pedal. For an amptrol, I'd set the slopes at 0.It does make a difference when you want to strike your arc, and when you close out a puddle, on aluminum. With steel in DC, you can start at 5 amps and walk the amps up to 200, slowly. All you do is preheat your work piece. With aluminum, too low of amps and it won't strike an arc. With a slow upslope, your arc will form, and start preheating as it were. But since the puddle isn't formed well, you get a lot of contamination building up; alum. oxides. Those oxides melt at 3 times the temp of the aluminum, so what you'll see is a hard skin on your puddle, very grey looking. But it won't melt easily. As you then mash the pedal more, your base material will overheat, and go  right out the bottom of the weld, and the piece is ruined...... in a worst case scenario. In more common circumstances, it makes for a lousy puddle that is tough to get a clean start on.Try some experiments on 3/16" material scrap. Set the upslope real high, and see how the soft arc works, and then set it to 0, and watch how clean and instant the puddle forms. You will find what will work better on your machine, and as your experience grows, you will modify your settings from time to time.
Reply:If you have your "slopes" set at 0, you control the amps completely with your foot. If you turn your "slopes" up the amps (when you floor it) gradually increase and (when you back off completely) gradually decrease.
Reply:there's some great info and videos explaining all those inverter knobs here--http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/tig-inverter-settings-part3.html
Reply:Definately welding tips, watch the vids several times and read the text.I think he made 4 videos.I wrote down some basic settings on my machine.Don't forget, no fat chicks.!Last edited by jonesg; 02-27-2010 at 01:29 AM.