Farm project: disk repair

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Hey all, first time poster, long time lurker.I am trying to repair a small disk implement that has a busted disk halfway down one of the assemblies.I have been unable to remove one of the bearings from the shaft to get at the space where the broken disk was.The problem: old machined cast iron 'bearing' that is seized on. I've tried prying, mallets, penetrating oil, and standing it on end dropping it on the free end to see if the mass of all the other loose parts will shake it free. No dice.I haven't tried heating it yet, as i am concerned that if the part doesn't budge it will crack due to having nothing handy to pack around the part (the implement is probably 30+ years old and I'm doubtful that there are affordable replacements around).I'd appreciate any input anyone may wish to share (Sorry if the pics appear odd, first time using tapatalk to upload.)Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk 2 Attached Images
Reply:You probably have rust and dirt packed between the sleeve and shaft. I'd try heating it up real good and lightly tapping aound the outside w/ a BRASS punch and hammer to see if it will knock the stuff loose. Only hit it in the bottom of the grooves. Before heating it, make up a peice of 3/8" plate w/ an openended slot to fit over the first groove of the race and two holes for the puller bolts to go thru. once you have it in place, weld a short peice of angle or sq tube across the slot to give it strength on that side.  Maybe someone else will come along w/ a better method.                                 HTH,                                        MikeOl' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Look at the axle, the unit has been run loose.
Reply:1" shaft?  Those bearing spacers are cheap and easy to find.  The local farm/ranch store stocks them by the case.  Also has the other associated parts in the stack.  1" shaft X 7 1/2" double bearing spacer is about $8 USD.  Plain 7 1/2" spacers are around $5 USD.I hit em with the torch and if they move great, if not, I hit em with the torch again and blow em off.YES, the disc has been run with the nut loose!  The loose cutter has grooved the shaft.  No big deal.  I just grind out the groove and build it back with 7018 rod.  After welding I grind it back to dimension.  It ain't a space shuttle!  No sub 6 second passes or anything close to that.  The shaft is just 1018 steel anyway.   Weld opposite sides to control the warping.  You may have to press it a bit to get it back to straight.  I have a press, but have seen in field repairs done either by beating the shaft with a maul or laying the shaft on a block and driving a pickup up the length.  Yeah, that's the technical side of CRUDE but sometimes it take whatever to get back in the dirt.Typical farm repair!  At least the OP did not drag it around until the shaft was cut in two as most of them that I have seen are.RogerOld, Tired, and GRUMPYSalesman will call, Batteries not included, Assembly is required, and FREE ADVICE IS WORTH EXACTLY WHAT YOU PAY FOR IT!Dial Arc 250HFThunderbolt 225 AC/DCAssorted A/O torches
Reply:Rog02   answered it perfectly , not a hard fix.   Heat it with rosebud and it will probably come of with i hit or two, if not then heat it red then quinch with water , this will usually release the rust ,if not cut it off and replace it.
Reply:Try to save the spool at all costs unless you REALLY can find a replacement if you break/melt/cut it.  Remember that the other half of the assembly, the clamshells, has to fit the disc, and if the spools don't fit the clamshell you've got an expensive paperweight.I can't find replacement bearing assemblies for my old International #7 (at least I think it's a #7) disc.Heat and tap is about the best way unless theres a wear ridge.  If there's a ridge then you have to determine whether you have to cut the shaft, or cut the spool in half(it's possible to weld the spool if you have to cut it in half, need access to a lathe though).There's enough crud inside the bore that maybe you could gradually flush it out, but it might not work either.  I really don't hold much store by PB Blaster, but it might work with a lot of soak time and vibrationLast edited by farmersamm; 12-18-2012 at 09:52 AM."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Thanks for the replies everyone, i will go into a more in-depth reply when i get to an actual computer (I hate typing stuff on this phone, too hard to scroll around for proofreading or typos).Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk 2
Reply:Heat it bro.Good news for you is that parts for square axle harrows seem to be plentifully, unlike round axle harrows.  When I had to fix my round axle '58 Dearborn/Ford, there were virtually zero replacement parts available.  I had to make my own new axle.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:Shoup sells replacement parts for disks. The grooves can be fixed by simply making a spacer to slide the gang bolt through a little. You probably have a ridge from a groove. Smooth with a grinder and try a air hammer the vibration works to loosen rust and crudMillermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Sometimes what I do when something like this wont budge is take a die grinder and cut a slice in it and then pound a cold chisel in the notch to spread it a little then knock it off. Then weld it back together.