AC stick welding rebar?

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Heading out to the shop tomorrow for some welding practice. I'm also going to rewire the HF AC unit for 220V. So far, my best welds have been on rebar, so I figured I'd do some practice on that in addition to the obligatory lap joints and laying down beads. I think I liked rebar in the past because I could just turn the 110V machine up to full power, use 6011, and not worry about anything else. Anyway, I came up with a really cheap and simple project to make: a bead breaker for my motorcycle tires. So what's the best way to weld rebar together? Obviously good surface prep is key. I was thinking that to make 90 degree angles joints strong, maybe grinding a "V" or |_| halfway into each bar would help, just like Lincoln Logs. What would be the best way to weld it, then? Or is there a better method?What's the best rod to use? (Remember, AC welder only)I have 6011 & 7014 in 3/32. I have 6013 in 1/8, but wasn't ever happy with it at 110V. Maybe at 220 it's be great? I also have 7014 in 1/16, but I think that's probably a little thin for 220V. Oh, I have some 7018 in 3/32 as well, but I could NEVER do anything with those rods, and they've been in the garage out in the open for a year now, so I was just going to throw them away unless oven baking really works--I seem to recall it doesn't. I'm"To tell which polarity to use go to the bathroom and pour some water down the drain. If it runs clockwise use straight polarity. If it runs counter-clockwise use reverse polarity. Or if it just gurgles use alternating current." -RandomDave
Reply:Rebar is usually made with cheap junk scrap steel. In some cases it's soft as butter, and in others it's super hard. All depends what was in the scrap mix that day. The basic specs on a mix is very loose, as long as it meets a minimum tensile strength it's good. This is especially true of import rebar and the junk Depot/Lowes sells. If the bar will cut with a hacksaw, it's soft and will probably weld fair to OK. If it won't cut, it's hard and I'd skip it.I've seen welds in rebar hold well, or seen similar welds tear out because the steel was too hard and brittle to get a good weld with. Good generic prep will help. I think your biggest issue will be your machine. I'd have no issue welding rebar with my old 220v AC craftsman stick machine. I'd probably grab 7014/ 7018 if I had a choice, but the 6011/6013 would probably work also. I don't use rebar for really anything I need to weld. I've usually welded it to make some sort of diposable anchor we'd bury in concrete, but nothing I'd use as a tool or trust to stay put under use.I don't see how you are going to get a 110v POS to run on 220v, and honestly don't care. I see it arcing, just not probably where you intend it to. Just be careful..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW I've usually welded it to make some sort of diposable anchor we'd bury in concrete, but nothing I'd use as a tool or trust to stay put under use.
Reply:Originally Posted by SkippiiI was going to use the giant switch on the front that goes between 110 and 220V.http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=98870
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWOk, that makes more sense. I though this was one of those DIY mod/builds to try and get more bang out of the cheap 110v only machines, several guys have posted up lately about  having issues with running beads. The part in post 1 that said "rewire" rather than switch it over to 220v is probably why I thought it was a mod build.