Help with 6010 root.

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Hi,I stumbled across this site while trying to find some information on stick welding.I'm a third year apprentice, the majority of my apprenticeship has been in a bridge fabricating shop, using FCAW and MCAW.  When it comes to stick, I haven't used it much.I am currently attempting a 2G with 6010 root and 7018 fill and cap.  I am having troubles tieing into my tacks on both sides of the coupon.  We are required to do a restart after 1/3 of the root is in.  I don't seem to have problems tieing into my root once its started.  But like I said, the tacks are causing me grief.  What is the best way for me to tie into my tacks?  Also, what would be recommended for amperage? Setup is:two 3/8's plate1/8" gap1/8" land1/8" 6010
Reply:put a 1mm cutting blade on your grinder and feather the edges of the tack so they taper to almost nothing. your root run should blend in nicely to the tack then. and i would run electrode negative for the root run.
Reply:I don't think DCEN will give enough penetration for the root.  JGSMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:I disagree with the proposal to use electrode negative.I doubt if you would be allow to run the 6010 electrode negative. If you are working toward AWS certification, your employer would have to have a quailifed procedure using E 6010 on electrode negative (straight polarity). I agree with the described tack weld preparation.
Reply:I use electrode positive for everything.  When you have your tapered "ramp" cut on each side of the tack it is a matter of striking up on the tack itself then running your bead down the ramp and pushing through as you reach the feathered edge.  It is pretty easy in reverse when tying in your tacks at the end of a bead.  I suggest to students to run their root about an inch at a time.  Stop welding your root as soon as everything is going sweet.  Grind your taper and restart.  Do that for several practice pieces until you have a hard time seeing your stop starts on the back side.  You should be able to get five or six restarts on one practice piece.  This is much more efficient than only doing stop starts when your rod runs out.Amperage for 1/8th :  start around 75.  Some people are over 80 and some go as low as 70.
Reply:So you can tie into a restart on your root but not a tack?  What are you doing differently on the restart that your not on the tack?  Not grinding enough, not starting back far enough?  its essentially the same thing if you look at it, just use the same technique for both and you ought to be able to do it.You might also want to try running a lighter land 1/8" is a little heavy for my liking.Have we all gone mad?
Reply:Lincoln 5P is DCEP, only, 5P+ is either.  JGSMAW,GMAW,FCAW,GTAW,SAW,PAC/PAW/OFCand Shielding Gases.  There all here. :
Reply:I have been using 5p+ 1/8, electrode positive, 3/32 gap and land, 66 to 72 amps.Some of you guys will say thats too cold or I need 3/32 electrode, but I have never missed a bend or xray.UA Local 598
Reply:Originally Posted by sn0border88So you can tie into a restart on your root but not a tack?  What are you doing differently on the restart that your not on the tack?  Not grinding enough, not starting back far enough?  its essentially the same thing if you look at it, just use the same technique for both and you ought to be able to do it.You might also want to try running a lighter land 1/8" is a little heavy for my liking.
Reply:You only have to grind or saw into the start of your tack, not the ending of it. I think that is what he is trying to say.
Reply:Thanks for clarifying.  The tack that i burn into at the end of my root.... is there any tricks that I could try to ensure a good tie in?
Reply:I grind my tacks thin and feather the edges also. A thin tack ensures it will melt easily when re heated while depositing new metal. When re striking your arc for a tie in, strike it an inch back from where you want to start depositing metal then move the rod into position as the shielding builds. This preheats the area you are going to start depositing metal to and makes your tie in blend in well.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by Man of SteelI'm not permitted to use anything other than a hack saw blade and file for feathering out my tacks.
Reply:One thing that hasn't been mention is how to finish of your tack....When you are at the end of your tack go back on your tack weld instead of just stopping and or making a quick movement out of your weld.....then grind the end of the tack down to a blue color which equals very thin metal....That is what mt freind and instructor showed me to do while doing pipe in college...He has been welding pipe for 20+ years. just my .02JerodHypertherm 30Miller Syncrowave 200Millermatic 140and a propane torch and hanger if all else fails