Wanna turn truck into trailer

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Well... I'm wanting to go a different direction with the bucket truck project I've been working on for a while now, seen here: http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=47657I've gotten all the frame rust issues under control but the cab and the service body are a total loss to rust. the truck came with a good running 460 and manual 5 speed that I'm going to put into a different truck so now I'm thinking of turning this truck frame into a trailer with the bucket lift mounted on it. My plan is simple, just cut the frame where the front spring perches have been separated from the frame and notch the top and bottom of the frame in the red circle to bring the sections together. Then weld the frame sections to a flat plate and weld a ball hitch to the plate. The red rectangle is the outline where the bucket lift frame sits.I also plan to build a pair of "manual out riggers" that will attach to the frame of the bucket unit to add stability, but that's a different topic. Does anyone have any good advice before I proceed? Should I make a "bolt on" plate/ball hitch adapter versus welding the frame to a plate? Is there a certain angle I should try to achieve when pulling the sections together? Should I get my head examined? Oops, scratch that last one, I already said the engine runs fine  Attached Images
Reply:I had rember an old timer tellen me a story about how they made a hay wagon out of a car frame. it was neat hearin it lolOf course I don't look busy.....I did it right the first time!
Reply:If you find the inner vertical dimension of the channel to be an even number, you can insert rectangular tube within the frame channel to form a tight fitting tongue. Tube, being stronger than channel and flat and clean to start, makes for a good, strong connection to any coupler you decide to use. City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Making a little progress. Thanks Tanglediver for the advice, it set me straight on how to properly set this up. The pics are mostly self explanatory. I took a peice of 6x4x3/8 angle and bolted it across the bottom of the frame using existing bolts for the rear cab cross member. I took a peice of 5x3x1/4 tubing and cut a peice that runs through the frame sections and ties to the angle I bolted to the frame. I doubled the box tubing at the front to get the hitch lower, while keeping the truck frame (trailer) level. The cutting, notching and fit up has been good so far. I still need to work the back of the tube to the angle for a proper fit, there's a medium angle between the two that I need to notch out of the tubing. The piece of steel on top of the frame running front to back is my "center line". I set it up running dead center down the frame before cutting the front end off. I'll use a string and plumb bob off it to the box tubing to center it in the frame; real high tech stuff  Still looking for any advice since this is my first time doing this. Attached Images
Reply:Nice shop.   There are lots of ways to go about it.I used tube on each leg of the frame. That let me notch the tube and re-weld the notch. I ran the tubes 20 inches into the channel then I combined bolts (through existing holes) with welds. Attached ImagesCity of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Almost finished. I worked on it part of the day today and got most of the welding done. All I have left to do is work the welds on the notches a little more. When I pulled the frame sections together I had almost a 1/4" gap on all four notches. I started on the underside and closed the gaps, then went up top and ground a nice "V" into the sloppy fill then ran 2 passes into it. Now I need to do the same on the underside (grind, "V", weld). Also, the "verticle down" you see in the picture is a cover over 2 "verticle ups" that were "less than pleasing" to look at. Thanks for the shop compliment. I built it myself about 11 years ago and have been filling it with toys since  Pic of the outside/inside from when it was being finished. I modeled it after several larger turn of the century (last century) dairy barns that are near by. Attached Images
Reply:When I'm not saving the rear ends I pull the axles, torch off the shaft, and bolt the cap back on. Less drag when towing. Ensure rear end lube is high enough to get to the bearings, which I pack with fresh grease since I'm there anyway. Look around on the net for examples of the "Scotch blocks" wreckers use. They chain to the tailboard and and are far superior to chocks because you cannot roll over them. A big nasty toothy custom set could be just the ticket to avoid "backsliding".  If your trailer has no parking brake it won't matter. No rule against making one set for the trailer and one for the truck that pulls it.