So how'd I do?

admin

Just bought this welder:Pretty much a newbie at welding,  took some classes in high school and college a long time ago, but nothing since. I'd been looking around for a stick welder, had been looking at ac225 welders, but this popped up.  My reading here and elsewhere suggests that this might be better because it's got DC and has continuously variable amps vs discrete steps (at least it looks like it does).  Apparently those are desirable features?  Don't know anything about Century welders other than that Lincoln bought them a few years ago. Comments? Observations? Anyplace that a manual might be available online?  Pretty sure I can figure things out without one but It can't hurt.   Plenty of instructions printed on the case. No model number though.
Reply:How you did depends on what you paid. The machine looks real clean and well cared for. Those basic machines almost never break, as long as you don't try adjusting the amps while welding. I'd say it was a decent deal if you paid less than $300 for it. New a machine like that probably runs $600+. It will certainly do most medium thickness steel most need to weld. Thin steel is a bit more problematic. That takes skill, but many can do down to 1/16" with out major issues.Start off with some easy rods like 6013, 7014 to get back in the swing and then move on to ones that take a bit more skill like 6010/11 and 7018. It's all about practice, practice, practice..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Oh yeah, forgot the price.... I paid $125 with 30 ft, #4 leads and a free chipping hammer
Reply:$125 is usually a good price for a strictly AC machine. That's a steal for an AC/DC unit that clean..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I'm jealeous.  And the cart is icing on the cake.
Reply:Good Deal, kinda looked like it may have a kick start their for a second...
Reply:I had a variation of that same welder, it was marketed by Sears (Crapsman).  It was actually a very nice machine...Decent set of balls and a nice smooth arc.   Replacement diodes are generic and easy to find in any electronics catalog.  BTDT   I modified it with a set of TWECO jacks and some larger leads..
Reply:Have you test welded with it yet?Drink a Guinness Draught....Millermatic 140Do you still rememberDecember's foggy freeze --when the ice thatclings on to your beard isscreaming agony.
Reply:Nice deal on the machine. On another vein I see an aircraft fuselage behind the welder. May I enquire as to which make and moderHarold MulderMiller 211 AutosetHTP 201 Invertig with water coolerHardinge Cataract Quick Change Lathe
Reply:I own a very similiar machine, mine is a Sears Craftsman.  I purchased it new in 1980, I think for around $400 or so.  I will admit, one thing that drives me truly crazy is looking at the units of amperage.. Wish they would have picked an increment tick mark division and just stick with it, even it the gap size from one tick mark to the next changed.  Look closely at the photos.  Aaargh!Billdacat..  One question for you.  Is it possible to adjust the output so the true output amperage better matches the numbers painted on the dial?  I've checked mine with a clamping ammeter (which only works in AC mode) and its off by 15 or 20%..   Does anybody have a wiring schematic for this machine?thx, zip.Last edited by zipzit; 03-14-2010 at 06:31 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by zipzitBilldacat..  One question for you.  Is it possible to adjust the output so the true output amperage better matches the numbers painted on the dial?  I've checked mine with a clamping ammeter (which only works in AC mode) and its off by 15 or 20%..   .
Reply:Don't worry about the settings on any machine.See how the puddle behaves, and how the welds look when finished.  Then adjust accordingly.All machines run different.  The numbers on the face of the machine are ballpark numbers.Even after you've gotten used to the machine, the settings will still vary somewhat.  Depending on the thickness of the metal, or differing thickness of two pieces of metal, the amount of crud on the steel, etc......................It looks like you got a good machine, at least by the looks of it.  Play with it, and see how you can marry to it.Lincoln has amp/rod dia etc guides available online.  These are good starting points"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:No surprise that samm likes it... It's got tractor tires!
Reply:Thanks for the replies.   I haven't tested it out yet.  I had to leave town the day I bought it, so I haven't had a chance to play with it.  It's killing me to be sitting in a hotel in NJ instead of trying it out.  The airplane is a 7ECA Citabria.  The fabric was shot, so I'm recovering it.  I'm not planning on using the welder on it. Thankfully, it doesn't need any welding done, but even if it had I'd leave that to the pros.  Man's gotta know his limitations. Aircraft frame welding is generally gas or MIG anyway.  Billdacat,  are diodes a common failure point?
Reply:Originally Posted by A SquaredThanks for the replies.   I haven't tested it out yet.  I had to leave town the day I bought it, so I haven't had a chance to play with it.  It's killing me to be sitting in a hotel in NJ instead of trying it out.  The airplane is a 7ECA Citabria.  The fabric was shot, so I'm recovering it.  I'm not planning on using the welder on it. Thankfully, it doesn't need any welding done, but even if it had I'd leave that to the pros.  Man's gotta know his limitations. Aircraft frame welding is generally gas or MIG anyway.  Billdacat,  are diodes a common failure point?
Reply:Originally Posted by BilldacatOnly if you abuse the machine...
Reply:Here's a good chart that shows welding cable sizes and lengths. Remember you use the TOTAL length of all the cable, not just one side. So if you have 30' leads, you have 60' of cable. For your use #2 or #1 is probably more than enough for most things.http://www.pacificcabling.com/Specia...rage_chart.htmThe TWECO connectors are twist locks that let you easily add or subtract cable to your leads. I have a  bunch of heavy leads that I got with the Tweco connectors on them. I can add them as needed and use the light 15' #2 lead with the stinger that came with my machine on the very end for flrxability. Most of my lengths are 25' or so because I usually don't need to add much cable most times. I can usually keep the ground lead short and just add to the stinger to reach what I need.As far as the extension cord vs the longer leads, for you, the extension cord would probably work best and be cheapest, since you already have a decent length of lead. Most machines only come with like 10-15' on a machine that size. I used to use an extension cord with my old thunderbolt as the machine was relatively portable on a cart. My newer stick machine is much heavier and it's simpler to just add cable to the leads as needed. Be sure you use cord rather than NMB wire. Wire is not made to be coiled repeatedly and only for use in walls, and is no good for extension cords..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWHere's a good chart that shows welding cable sizes and lengths. Remember you use the TOTAL length of all the cable, not just one side. So if you have 30' leads, you have 60' of cable. For your use #2 or #1 is probably more than enough for most things.http://www.pacificcabling.com/Specia...rage_chart.htmThe TWECO connectors are twist locks that let you easily add or subtract cable to your leads. I have a  bunch of heavy leads that I got with the Tweco connectors on them. I can add them as needed and use the light 15' #2 lead with the stinger that came with my machine on the very end for flrxability. Most of my lengths are 25' or so because I usually don't need to add much cable most times. I can usually keep the ground lead short and just add to the stinger to reach what I need.As far as the extension cord vs the longer leads, for you, the extension cord would probably work best and be cheapest, since you already have a decent length of lead. Most machines only come with like 10-15' on a machine that size. I used to use an extension cord with my old thunderbolt as the machine was relatively portable on a cart. My newer stick machine is much heavier and it's simpler to just add cable to the leads as needed. Be sure you use cord rather than NMB wire. Wire is not made to be coiled repeatedly and only for use in walls, and is no good for extension cords.
Reply:This is the part number for the Tweco panel jacks.     http://www.safety-outlet.com/product...eceptacle.htmlThey are easy to install and allow you to super size your welding leads.     I have a 1/0 cable to my stinger and 2/0 for the work cable.   My used cables were cheep and the stock connectors were too small.  I don't think you can go wrong with large cables.
Reply:So, I got back home and got a chance to give it a little closer scrutiny and to try it out.There are Tweco connectors between the short leads and extensions, which is good,  but the connectors on the box are stock which  means that I can't just plug the short leads into the  box if I don't need the length.    Also, the stock connectors are a real bugger to insert.  To get the leads plugged in, I have to push and twist a lot harder than it seems I should need to, hard enough that the receptacles are starting to spin.  I'm thinking that replacing everything with Tweco connectors is probably a good move.  (more opportunities to spend money)    Laid down some beads with it, and am pleased with the way it welds (from my very inexperienced perspective)   Tried both AC and DC and I can see what folks say about DC welding nicer. Very glad I was able to lay my hands on an AC-DC unit.  So, can anyone explain why 3/32 rods are more expensive than 1/8?  At least that's what I found in Home Depot, 5 lb box of 1/8" 6013= $7.xx , 5 lb.box of 3/32 6013 = $10.xx That's counter to what I'd expect, what am I missing?   I see what Zipit means about the amperage scale.  I  guess that the reason for it is that the rotary motion of the dial on the front is turned via some monkey motion to linear motion inside the unit, (which probably then results in a non-linear result in amperage change)  but like you say, it would be nice if they could have figured out how to make one tic, say 5 amps across the entire scale.
Reply:Originally Posted by A SquaredSo, can anyone explain why 3/32 rods are more expensive than 1/8?  At least that's what I found in Home Depot, 5 lb box of 1/8" 6013= $7.xx , 5 lb.box of 3/32 6013 = $10.xx That's counter to what I'd expect, what am I missing?   I.
Reply:Having worked as a dept manager for one of these big box stores in the past, theres often no good reason to explain pricing differences like this. It could be that they added the items at different times and the system uses a different price modifier based on when it was originally added. If could have to do with sales quantity for the whole chain, either it's cheaper because they sell more of one or the other way around. It could be because the local competition has 1/8" rod at that price so they matched it, but no one ever did a price check on the 3/32" so it stayed the original price.I agree the price seems a bit high, but thats not uncommon with some things at places like Depot. Things like steel and alum there are often considered "convenience" items and cost way more than I can pay by shopping at a good supplier. In some cases the extra cost is offset vs having to go long distance to get it at the LWS. Also considering you're in Alaska, prices probably are not the same as they are near me, due to shipping costs..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by weldbeadprobably they get more call for 3/32 at hd than for 1/8? either way the price is terrible. i get rod at tractor supply for $3 / pound... its even cheaper on the net but im afraid it will get dropped and flux up the flux..