Seeing the puddle.

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Recently picked up a buzz box stick welder and I've been running some beads trying to get some idea of what I'm doing.  One thing I can't seem to do is discern the puddle of molten steel from the slag.  My only welding experience is a few classes I took in High school and college.  Although it's been a while I have a fairly definite memory of being able to distinguish the steel from the slag.  Kinda scratching my head about why I can't seem to do that now;  eyes not as good 30 years later?  Using a lens that's too dark/ not the right color?   FWIW I'm using 6013 rod,  have no idea what type I was using back then.
Reply:It might take a less dark lens. Also, is the technique correct? If you are pushing a stick weld, it's hard to see the puddle as there will be more mess, and likely not as good a weld. (I am not a stick welder by trade, so my experience is limited.) Angle and speed can also affect how you see the weld puddle.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Originally Posted by Rojodiablo   Also, is the technique correct?
Reply:age is definitely a factor. what you used to do you cant do  no more.try different lenses.i recommend the gold,  i also use a #9 , and special notint  reading glasses special made with a 9" focal length because thats  aboiut where my 60 year old eyes focus to see the puddle. if you cant see the puddle, you cant weld.
Reply:I always found it hard to see the puddle properly. Just about all the time I use a # 9 filter and have had some # 8 which I love. I now use auto filters and wish they turned down to 6's but all the ones I have used only go to 9. I just made sure I was in a good position and that I was doing everything else properly and after awhile I was able to see and understand what I was looking at.Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:No fun getting old! I welded just fine until I hit 40. Since then its been up one level on the cheater glasses every year. I can't weld at all without them now. As a side note, clean your lens frequently a build up of smoke further accentuates the problem.Scotthttp://www.welders360.com/New guy.
Reply:I'm always the weird oneDon't go to a lighter filterUse a 10, then try a 11.  You'll see the difference immediately.  With a darker lense, the slag shows up as a definitive dark line at the rear of the puddle, enabling you to tell the difference between slag and puddle.  Once you learn to distinguish the difference, you'll have no trouble focusing on the puddle in the future.Increasing tilt on the rod also helps, the puddle is further behind the rod, and you don't get drowned out by the arc.Once you learn to watch the puddle INSTEAD of the rod/arc, you'll start to make some nice looking sound welds.  You'll pull the puddle instead of concentrating on moving the rod (weird way to explain it, but it's the best I can come up with)"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Samm gave the answer I was looking for; he stick welds a lot. Good advice.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:I'll second the cheater lenses. I resisted them for quite a while since I always thought of them being for the "old" guys. Woke up one morning and kinda realized I was one. They're relatively cheap, 7 or 8 bucks. A fella at work said he saw a formula or chart somewhere that related the lens power to age. I use a 2.0. Made a world of difference.Also find that working in an area with low air movement causes the smoke to get in the way. Maybe a little air movement will clean things up a bit. AlA man is judged by what's between his legs...always ride a good horseMiller DialArc HFLincoln Classic 300DThermal Arc 181iPowermax 45Scotchman Ironworker(2) BridgeportsOkomota Surface GrinderAutoCAD 2010
Reply:I saw somewhere a light that could be mounted to your mig torch but can't find it anywhere. Does anyone know what I mean or have one?
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI'm always the weird oneDon't go to a lighter filterUse a 10, then try a 11.  You'll see the difference immediately.  With a darker lense, the slag shows up as a definitive dark line at the rear of the puddle, enabling you to tell the difference between slag and puddle.  Once you learn to distinguish the difference, you'll have no trouble focusing on the puddle in the future.Increasing tilt on the rod also helps, the puddle is further behind the rod, and you don't get drowned out by the arc.Once you learn to watch the puddle INSTEAD of the rod/arc, you'll start to make some nice looking sound welds.  You'll pull the puddle instead of concentrating on moving the rod (weird way to explain it, but it's the best I can come up with)
Reply:Thanks for all the great replies.  I'm well past the denial stage on the eyes thing, been using reading glasses for a bit.  Sounds like I need to pick up a cheater lens and maybe try some different shades (using shade 10 right now)
Reply:I have to agree with Samm about going to a darker lens.  What I like about having an autodarkening helmet is that I might in a 10 inside with poor light but it just a few seconds to go to a 12 or so if I'm out in bright sunshineto knock out the glare. Just my opinion for what it's worth.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:Well, I picked up a #11 lens and a 1.25 cheater lens (that's what my reading glasses are so I figured that was about right)  I'm having better luck seeing the puddle, not sure whether it was the cheater or the darker lens, probably a combination of both.   I think that what I need now is just more time burning rod.
Reply:Slag coverage depends on the rod type. With 6013, the leading edge of the puddle is exposed, but the back half is covered. When you try 7018, the entire puddle is covered, but with 6011 & 6010, only slight coverage is present. 7024 though, is nothing but a slag-monster!  City of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:I to must use a cheater and darker (10) lens. I explain it as the angry eye or Devil eye when you place your head in such a way as to see the molten material flow (retina or puddle) and then the transfer of mateial from the electrode as the cornea. You can then move the cornea and position the retina which will darken (slag).   When I first establish the arch I sing in my head "strike, forward, reverse, go" and this gets me a satifactory start of the bead. It allows me to preheat and establish the retina or puddle. I use this method when I change position or start a new electrode. Hope I didn't confuse you its just my little method of keeping it simple.
Reply:Sometimes when welding in tight spots a small fan to get a gentle breeze makes a ton of difference.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:I heard good things about gold lenses. Like the slag and steel being different shades of red. Haven't tried one yet though.
Reply:I gave it a shot Sam and worked with # 10 and higher and still found that I prefer # 9 fr tig and mig for what I am doing. I do use a little higher when stick welding though. I know a few others who find the same thing.Miller DVI2Lincoln Precision Tig 225Thermodynamics Cutmaster 38Everything else needed.
Reply:The higher the amperage, the darker the shade that is needed.-Rhyno07 Fowler 200D65 RedFace04 Miller TB 302, 22hpMiller 12RCMiller HF 251-1Lincoln SP135HyperTherm PM 380and a few others... Originally Posted by RhynoBut, if I "all of a sudden disappear....  ...." hopefully I didn't suffer too much....